Extended cab 45 SWB from a 40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter afraptor22
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- Thread starter
- #62
Ya... One of them has to go....
I would have loved to make Frank a 4-door and about 6" longer in the cab. It wouldn't have fit in my garage to build it though! It'll work ok now while my kids are little, but not for very long. 80 has a real back seat, coil spring ride, ABS, already has lockers...just wish I could legally put the LS drivetrain in it and it would be perfect.
- Thread starter
- #63
I've been working on improvements to Frank:
Added a Vibrant 3" resonator before the muffler and FINALLY the exhaust is livable for me. It's much quieter in the cab until the motor goes over 2K. I also made floor mats with rubber on top and knock-off dynamat on the underside to reduce the noise and heat a little bit. I also ended up replacing the master cylinder with a 95-99 Chevrolet truck master cylinder which worked much better with the hydroboost. Now the brakes are firm and pedal travel is reduced which allowed me to move the pedal towards the firewall some and improve ergonomics. I need to reduce the electronic pedal spacer some now too. I really need to cut in another recline notch in the Corbeau seat, it's too laid back!
I took the truck to work in SF and it did great in stop and go through the city. Steering and braking a great now and the stock Tahoe 6L80E program works great with the 6.0 and 37" tires. It did get hot faster than I would like but the new fan knocked the temp down in a matter of seconds, very impressive. It seems like the PCM was driving the temps down sooner than I wanted, on at 203 and off at 197, so I need to tweak those in the programming.
This morning I threw the tent on in preparation for an overland truck meet up in Oakland and maybe use Frank to take my son camping Sunday night at Frank Raines OHV. Not quite sure I'm ready for a 3-hour road trip but will see.... Truck is working great now.
Added a Vibrant 3" resonator before the muffler and FINALLY the exhaust is livable for me. It's much quieter in the cab until the motor goes over 2K. I also made floor mats with rubber on top and knock-off dynamat on the underside to reduce the noise and heat a little bit. I also ended up replacing the master cylinder with a 95-99 Chevrolet truck master cylinder which worked much better with the hydroboost. Now the brakes are firm and pedal travel is reduced which allowed me to move the pedal towards the firewall some and improve ergonomics. I need to reduce the electronic pedal spacer some now too. I really need to cut in another recline notch in the Corbeau seat, it's too laid back!
I took the truck to work in SF and it did great in stop and go through the city. Steering and braking a great now and the stock Tahoe 6L80E program works great with the 6.0 and 37" tires. It did get hot faster than I would like but the new fan knocked the temp down in a matter of seconds, very impressive. It seems like the PCM was driving the temps down sooner than I wanted, on at 203 and off at 197, so I need to tweak those in the programming.
This morning I threw the tent on in preparation for an overland truck meet up in Oakland and maybe use Frank to take my son camping Sunday night at Frank Raines OHV. Not quite sure I'm ready for a 3-hour road trip but will see.... Truck is working great now.
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Which ratio gears are you using in your axles?
I’ll be using an earlier 6.0 with an sm465 and 37/38.5s, but no OD.
I’ll be using an earlier 6.0 with an sm465 and 37/38.5s, but no OD.
- Thread starter
- #65
4.10. My trans has a 4:1 first gear and the combo works really well on the street, 6th gear is a little too deep though for hills.
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So I’ll be either cruising slower or making some revs to go down the highway with 4.10s...
- Thread starter
- #67
Ya! Rubber overdrive will be your friend. Might not be too bad with 38s. What kind of transfer case are you running?
- Joined
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Gm np205 with twin stick and Ford guts. The plan is to build my own super short planetary doubler to add to it. I believe I scavenged np246 gears.
- Thread starter
- #69
Cool, one of the Black Box budget kits? I think those are cleaner than the NP203 to Split Case I have.
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I was just going to build my own, shorter than the black box or Klune-v setups.
- Thread starter
- #71
Took Frank to a couple car shows/truck meet ups this weekend and then on an overnight camping trip to Frank Raines OHV park near Patterson.
On the way home I was monitoring my fuel mileage with an Ultragauge. On I5 with a CRAZY cross wind I was getting 11-12mpg. On I580 level at 65 I was getting 19mpg! Overall the truck did great, but I have a WICKED whistle coming from somewhere in the top or windshield that I need to kill before the next road trip.
On the way home I was monitoring my fuel mileage with an Ultragauge. On I5 with a CRAZY cross wind I was getting 11-12mpg. On I580 level at 65 I was getting 19mpg! Overall the truck did great, but I have a WICKED whistle coming from somewhere in the top or windshield that I need to kill before the next road trip.
Such an awesome build. I have read it over and over.
- Thread starter
- #73
Haven't been using Frank too much, the 80 has been the family camping mule. Twice I got "Death Wobble" going over rail road tracks in town. I can't find once cause, more like a bunch of little things adding up with the way I did the front suspension. The shackle reversal and the loooong rear shackles weren't helping anything. I was at Georg's shop in Stockton and got some excellent inspiration so...commence with the spring over and 60 front axle.
Yanked the 40 series axle out and started to strip the parts off of it I would keep.
Went to work stripping most of the brackets off a 60 series housing. I'm using the RuffStuff perches and will be out-boarding the springs.
I wanted to incorporate a winch plate into the front end and Chassis Unlimited had one that looked like it would fit perfectly in the frame rails. I ended up having to weld in some 3/16" plate on each side and then it took up the width inside the frame rails perfectly. Thanks @bugsnbikes for the design help. I ran out of welding wire, so the tow points will get burned in later.
I'm playing with capping the entire front with 1/4" plate and right now the card board was to try out ideas. I need to tac on the spring hangers and set the truck back on the axles to see how the front and rear height will match. I'm pretty sure I will have to add some blocks to the rear to match the new front height. Also going to be re-gearing to 4.56 with an ARB in the back and a Toyota LSD in the front, should be fun.
Yanked the 40 series axle out and started to strip the parts off of it I would keep.
Went to work stripping most of the brackets off a 60 series housing. I'm using the RuffStuff perches and will be out-boarding the springs.
I wanted to incorporate a winch plate into the front end and Chassis Unlimited had one that looked like it would fit perfectly in the frame rails. I ended up having to weld in some 3/16" plate on each side and then it took up the width inside the frame rails perfectly. Thanks @bugsnbikes for the design help. I ran out of welding wire, so the tow points will get burned in later.
I'm playing with capping the entire front with 1/4" plate and right now the card board was to try out ideas. I need to tac on the spring hangers and set the truck back on the axles to see how the front and rear height will match. I'm pretty sure I will have to add some blocks to the rear to match the new front height. Also going to be re-gearing to 4.56 with an ARB in the back and a Toyota LSD in the front, should be fun.
- Thread starter
- #74
Still haven't fixed the whistle either, but my temporary solution is to run the half doors. It must be a pressure thing somewhere because I don't get the whistle with these doors.
- Thread starter
- #75
Got the springs in the position I wanted and everything looked good so I burned in the spring hangers and the shackle hangers.
I got new .035 wire so I welded in the recovery points. There will be a 5"x36" piece of 3/8" steel going across making a mock bumper and to cap off the ends of the frame rails. Not looking forward to cutting 3/8"!!
I also got the knuckles turned and the Marlin knuckle braces welded on.
I got new .035 wire so I welded in the recovery points. There will be a 5"x36" piece of 3/8" steel going across making a mock bumper and to cap off the ends of the frame rails. Not looking forward to cutting 3/8"!!
I also got the knuckles turned and the Marlin knuckle braces welded on.
hamishpotter
SILVER Star
Such an awesome build!
Though a lot of images are broken on page 2 where the top comes into the picture.
So are you planning on keeping or selling?
Though a lot of images are broken on page 2 where the top comes into the picture.
So are you planning on keeping or selling?
- Thread starter
- #77
Ya, I need to go back and upload the images to mud. It's anpin to figure out which ones I used though. If anyone wants a picture or explanation of how I built the soft top frame I'm happy to send it.
I'm keeping it for now, and trying to make it work for family trips. I have a built 80 also, and although both trucks are awesome, neither does everything I want....and having both makes my driveway too crowded!
hamishpotter
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #79
I got the spring over axle done and mostly back together but I'm having a rough time getting the knuckles assembled. I have a housing and knuckles from different trucks and I'm using Marlin high steer arms with 25mm pins. As soon as I tighten down the spindle the trunions bind so I need to find or buy a centering SST. So I took the transfer case out to replace seals and the input bearing.
Then I did some tweaking of the rear suspension. I never liked how the sway bar was mounted so cut the ends off and welded a new set of arms from Welder Series parts.
Then I welded new ears on my spring plates so I can run an adjustable rod end link.
Then I did some tweaking of the rear suspension. I never liked how the sway bar was mounted so cut the ends off and welded a new set of arms from Welder Series parts.
Then I welded new ears on my spring plates so I can run an adjustable rod end link.
- Thread starter
- #80
Here's the axle waiting to go in:
Here's the front end with the 3/8" cap plate and some gussets. It's plenty strong and very compact .
Here's the front end with the 3/8" cap plate and some gussets. It's plenty strong and very compact .
