Exhausted. (1 Viewer)

[batthewmrown]

Well, it's official. The carb cleaner spray test has confirmed my suspicions, so it looks like I'm planning on replacing my IN/EX manifold gasket and all the bits and bobs associated with that. What I'm really looking for is some feedback on my parts list. I'm hoping I can get everything in one fell swoop, so as to have the truck down for as little time as possible. I searched high and low for an organized, exhaustive list and couldn't find one, so I'm hoping to put one together and that maybe this will be my big contribution to future Mud generations. I have some questions about other parts that I'll include. If I've left anything out, please, speak up.


- SOR Graphite Manifold Gasket - Qty: 1
- SOR Graphite Heat Riser Gasket - Qty: 1
- SOR Heat Riser Insulator PN 044-12D - Qty 1
- Ring, Exhaust Manifold PN 17151-61010 - Qty: 4
- Spring, Exhaust Manifold PN 17152-61010 - Qty: 4
- Exhaust Pipe Donut Gasket - PN 90917-06056 - Qty: 1
- EGR Valve to J-Pipe Gasket - PN 25628-61060 - Qty: 1
- EGR Valve to Manifold Gasket - P/N 25628-61050 - Qty: 1
- Carb Heat Spacer Gasket - Qty: 1

*Bolts/Studs/etc. - This is my main question. I recall reading mixed reviews about the SOR kit and wouldn't mind just getting it all from Toyota. I'd like to replace everything that needs it, not just the 2 bolts and 6 studs between the manifold and head, unless that's all I need to worry about. I've tried looking at the exploded view and my mind can't seem to make sense of it. If you know part numbers and quantities, it'd be greatly appreciated.

 

[Seth S]

Well, it's official. The carb cleaner spray test has confirmed my suspicions, so it looks like I'm planning on replacing my IN/EX manifold gasket and all the bits and bobs associated with that. What I'm really looking for is some feedback on my parts list. I'm hoping I can get everything in one fell swoop, so as to have the truck down for as little time as possible. I searched high and low for an organized, exhaustive list and couldn't find one, so I'm hoping to put one together and that maybe this will be my big contribution to future Mud generations. I have some questions about other parts that I'll include. If I've left anything out, please, speak up.


- SOR Graphite Manifold Gasket - Qty: 1
- SOR Graphite Heat Riser Gasket - Qty: 1
- SOR Heat Riser Insulator PN 044-12D - Qty 1
- Ring, Exhaust Manifold PN 17151-61010 - Qty: 4
- Spring, Exhaust Manifold PN 17152-61010 - Qty: 4
- Exhaust Pipe Donut Gasket - PN 90917-06056 - Qty: 1
- EGR Valve to J-Pipe Gasket - PN 25628-61060 - Qty: 1
- EGR Valve to Manifold Gasket - P/N 25628-61050 - Qty: 1
- Carb Heat Spacer Gasket - Qty: 1

*Bolts/Studs/etc. - This is my main question. I recall reading mixed reviews about the SOR kit and wouldn't mind just getting it all from Toyota. I'd like to replace everything that needs it, not just the 2 bolts and 6 studs between the manifold and head, unless that's all I need to worry about. I've tried looking at the exploded view and my mind can't seem to make sense of it. If you know part numbers and quantities, it'd be greatly appreciated.

@ToyotaMatt

 

[DFXR]

I used a mix and match of OEM and SOR studs and bolts, so I can't help you there, but here are a few thoughts:

-Start soaking all of your current fasteners with PB Blaster/Kroil/whatever now, and keep at it until d-day.

- Make sure your int/ex manifold to engine mating surface is truly, truly flat before putting it back together. Many threads about the importance of this. You're likely already aware.

A few more little things... Toyota Matt can def help with these Toyota parts (all are still available):

-Get the OEM manifold gasket instead of the SOR graphite one
-Replace (with OEM) the 3 studs and nuts at the manifold to exhaust downpipe connection
-Replace (with OEM) the 4 studs and nuts that connect the carb to the manifold
-Replace (with OEM) the 2 studs and nuts at the J-pipe to manifold connection. The studs may be the same PN as the carb studs but the nuts are different.
-Inspect your carb heat shield and be prepared to replace it if it's cracked

From SOR:
Inspect the flange at the top of your J-pipe - if it's warped or cracked, consider replacing it with the stainless steel J pipe from SOR. I did this and it's been worth it.

Use hi-temp anti-seize on everything when you put it back together... I used Never-seez nickel high-temp on advice from Mud.

While everything's apart, take the opportunity to give your EGR valve a good cleaning. Not the baffle part but the actual valve that moves up and down.

Also a good time to really inspect your air rail (air injection manifold). These get old and rusty and start to leak, usually all the way in back. The leak can mimic a manifold gasket leak. They are not availble new but if yours has a problem you can usually find them used here from people who have de-smogged. I can tell you from personal experience that replacing your manifold gasket and putting everything back together, only to find a leak at the back of the air rail, is not fun.

I'll update this with part numbers when I get a chance.

 

[batthewmrown]

I used a mix and match of OEM and SOR studs and bolts, so I can't help you there, but here are a few thoughts:

-Start soaking all of your current fasteners with PB Blaster/Kroil/whatever now, and keep at it until d-day.

- Make sure your int/ex manifold to engine mating surface is truly, truly flat before putting it back together. Many threads about the importance of this. You're likely already aware.

A few more little things... Toyota Matt can def help with these Toyota parts (all are still available):

-Get the OEM manifold gasket instead of the SOR graphite one
-Replace (with OEM) the 3 studs and nuts at the manifold to exhaust downpipe connection
-Replace (with OEM) the 4 studs and nuts that connect the carb to the manifold
-Replace (with OEM) the 2 studs and nuts at the J-pipe to manifold connection. The studs may be the same PN as the carb studs but the nuts are different.
-Inspect your carb heat shield and be prepared to replace it if it's cracked

From SOR:
Inspect the flange at the top of your J-pipe - if it's warped or cracked, consider replacing it with the stainless steel J pipe from SOR. I did this and it's been worth it.

Use hi-temp anti-seize on everything when you put it back together... I used Never-seez nickel high-temp on advice from Mud.

While everything's apart, take the opportunity to give your EGR valve a good cleaning. Not the baffle part but the actual valve that moves up and down.

Also a good time to really inspect your air rail (air injection manifold). These get old and rusty and start to leak, usually all the way in back. The leak can mimic a manifold gasket leak. They are not availble new but if yours has a problem you can usually find them used here from people who have de-smogged. I can tell you from personal experience that replacing your manifold gasket and putting everything back together, only to find a leak at the back of the air rail, is not fun.

I'll update this with part numbers when I get a chance.

Thanks for the beta. This is a bug help. My only real question is that when making sure your manifold is flat, what can be done if the block side isn't? Short from pulling the engine, is there much you can do? I was given the advice, by someone I trust, that the SOR gasket is quite thick and could accommodate any slight out-of-flatness between the two surfaces.

 

[fjc-man]

It’s not worth the risk of doing this job twice.

 

[mattressking]

17172-61041 - manifold Gasket, qty.1
90119-10393 - bolt, qty.2
90119-12003 - bolt, qty. 4
90116-12011 - stud, qty. 2
90201-12051 - washer, qty.2
90170-12211 - nut, qty.2
90917-06003 - downpipe gasket, qty.1
90179-10070 - downpipe nut, qty.3
90116-10299 - downpipe stud, qty.3

Do you plan to separate/machine the manifold? What I recommend is removing manifold, clean surfaces, remove gasket material completely, then test fit on motor. Torque without a gasket then use a feeler gauge to check for gaps. I believe .5mm is the maximum gap tolerance (don't have FSM next to me). Also make sure bolts and washers fit in the manifold flat, I have seen some manifolds get beat up with incorrect washers, bolts. *NOTE* when torquing, start from the center out. The FSM clearly dictates this as well.

If gap is less than .5 (or whatever the tolerance is) reinstall with new gasket and high temp copper RTV on both sides of gasket.

IF you separate the manifold completely (I don't recommend unless you are going to have it all machined flat) there are a additional gaskets, but I can kick those over if you ultimately decide to tear it all down bare and reassemble.

 

[batthewmrown]

17172-61041 - manifold Gasket, qty.1
90119-10393 - bolt, qty.2
90119-12003 - bolt, qty. 4
90116-12011 - stud, qty. 2
90201-12051 - washer, qty.2
90170-12211 - nut, qty.2
90917-06003 - downpipe gasket, qty.1
90179-10070 - downpipe nut, qty.3
90116-10299 - downpipe stud, qty.3

Do you plan to separate/machine the manifold? What I recommend is removing manifold, clean surfaces, remove gasket material completely, then test fit on motor. Torque without a gasket then use a feeler gauge to check for gaps. I believe .5mm is the maximum gap tolerance (don't have FSM next to me). Also make sure bolts and washers fit in the manifold flat, I have seen some manifolds get beat up with incorrect washers, bolts. *NOTE* when torquing, start from the center out. The FSM clearly dictates this as well.

If gap is less than .5 (or whatever the tolerance is) reinstall with new gasket and high temp copper RTV on both sides of gasket.

IF you separate the manifold completely (I don't recommend unless you are going to have it all machined flat) there are a additional gaskets, but I can kick those over if you ultimately decide to tear it all down bare and reassemble.

You ****in' beauty, you. I was on the fence about separating them. I suppose when I get it off, I'll see what kind of shape the insulator and gasket are in and go from there. I hadn't thought about re-mounting it and then checking the clearance w/ a feeler. That's a good call.

 

[batthewmrown]

It’s not worth the risk of doing this job twice.

That seems to be the general consensus. Thanks for your input. Since you're local to me, do you know of a machine shop that can handle the job if I need to have them flattened?

 

[fjc-man]

Give Spitfire Engine and Machine LLC a call 303 573 8515. I think they still do these.