Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (3 Viewers)

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Absolutely insane build thread - subscribed and slowly digging into it all. Just bought my 94, and PO removed flares, so that + Monstaliner is just one of the things I'll be emulating.

So, here's the most petty question you've likely been asked: Any issues with stickers being damaged from sliding the rear windows back and forth?
 
jcardona1 said:
That's a few thousand dollars more. It's not a simple "while I'm in there" upgrade, especially with 5.29s already setup. 3link brackets are made specifically for the FJ80 8" front axle which means I'd need new brackets from Brian or go full custom with RuffStuff brackets. I have thought abot it though. I guess the plan for now is to see how it goes with the 8" diff. I try to be careful while wheeling and don't treat it like a rock bouncer from the South. I think the first time I blow an 8" R&P will make me rethink going the 9.5" route but for now it's just too much money!
Click to expand...
honestly I'm not so sure the 9.5 is much of an upgrade anyway. at least with the regearing in the front you got a 29 spline pinion, right? 9.5s still use 27 spline pinions and they are a weak link.

you going to run hydro assist?
 
nukegoat said:
honestly I'm not so sure the 9.5 is much of an upgrade anyway. at least with the regearing in the front you got a 29 spline pinion, right? 9.5s still use 27 spline pinions and they are a weak link.

you going to run hydro assist?
Click to expand...

Plus, the 8" reverse rotation/High pinion gears in the 80 front have a big strength advantage... Not sure if a HP 8" is as strong as a LP 9.5" gear set (in a front application,) but I would be surprised if it wasn't real close.
 
maxamillion2345 said:
I would...
Click to expand...

Interesting. Could you explain why?

HP or LP 8" in a rear axle vs. a 9.5" in a rear axle - no question the 9.5 is stronger, but the fact that the gears in the front HP 8" are running on the drive-side of the gear vs the front 9.5" riding on the coast side is certainly a big advantage. I have no numbers to prove how much of an advantage it is, but I'd bet it is significant.
 
bryson said:
Plus, the 8" reverse rotation/High pinion gears in the 80 front have a big strength advantage... Not sure if a HP 8" is as strong as a LP 9.5" gear set (in a front application,) but I would be surprised if it wasn't real close.
Click to expand...
In the forward direction, they are probably close enough. Backing up, though, there's no comparison. A 9.5 LP would be far superior.

A lot of it comes down to how you drive, ultimately.
 
You lose points for backing up....
 
image.webp
The 8" hi pinion is notorious for self destruct mode when backing up(rock crawling and bound). It's been ditched by many for this reason(in the minitruck world).

You can't really take a nice, clean 80 you wanna keep shiny places where the 9.5 front will produce a valid arguement, so it's a worthless 'improvement' for most people.

I built mine for the fun of fabrication, not out of necessity.

Here's my knuckle gussets jose(axle is upside down in the pic). Just 3/8 plate cut w a freehand plasma and ground to fine tune a snug fit up before welding.
 
If you look at the carrier bearing caps on a 9.5 you'll see the tabs that stick out into the housing to prevent deflection and the seperation of ring and pinion.

Handful of reasons why it's superior. But probably not 'necessary' unless you're gonna seriously beat the glass and sheet metal up on a nice truck.

The pinion and companion flange are available in 29 spline, even a 32(?) was used in a nitro 70 series build. A Dana 60 is 28 spline...

What's our Tcase output size/spline? Both suffer the same abuse and sit in the same torque situation, seperated only by a driveshaft...
image.webp
 
Townsend said:
Absolutely insane build thread - subscribed and slowly digging into it all. Just bought my 94, and PO removed flares, so that + Monstaliner is just one of the things I'll be emulating.

So, here's the most petty question you've likely been asked: Any issues with stickers being damaged from sliding the rear windows back and forth?
Click to expand...

Thanks! There's still a lot more to come :) No issues with the decals. They don't really ride on anything as the window slides.

nukegoat said:
you going to run hydro assist?
Click to expand...

Yeah I plan on it. Probably not right now as I do the 3link though. I was however thinking of moving my stabilizer down to the axle where the hydro assist would eventually sit. That way I don't have to add any mounts or brackets later.

nukegoat said:
You may want to gusset the balls while you're there, btw. I'd also probably armor the pumpkin so you can grind it into stuff.
Click to expand...

Started looking around for premade gussets but nobody sells a plain knuckle ball gusset. Everything has some sort of shock mount built into it. So I may have to go the DIY route like Booger's post below. Not much room on the passenger side for a good gusset though because of where the panhard bracket sits.

ioX4g6Th.jpg


Diff armor, yep. I got these two pieces already for the face and bottom of the diff. The pumpkin cover will need some trimming though to clear the 3rd link tower.

yW1u2Axl.jpg


Booger weldz said:
View attachment 1037058 The 8" hi pinion is notorious for self destruct mode when backing up(rock crawling and bound). It's been ditched by many for this reason(in the minitruck world).

You can't really take a nice, clean 80 you wanna keep shiny places where the 9.5 front will produce a valid arguement, so it's a worthless 'improvement' for most people.

I built mine for the fun of fabrication, not out of necessity.

Here's my knuckle gussets jose(axle is upside down in the pic). Just 3/8 plate cut w a freehand plasma and ground to fine tune a snug fit up before welding.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pic! Kinda what I had in mind after doing some web searches of knuckle gussets. Too bad nobody sells something simple like that without all the built in shock mounts. I'd rather pay a few bucks than spend an hour or two making those by hand with a grinder. And that's a good point about the 9.5 front in something like an 80. I like to think my style of wheeling means the 8" HP will be fine for several years to come. There's just some places an 80 can't go and waterfalls it just can't climb because of its size and weight - and I'm not convinced having a 9.5 front would help all that much.
 
I spy Heim joints...
 
AMMO said:
I spy Heim joints...
Click to expand...

That's not mine. It's when that other guy was installing the first 4WU kit (ended up using TREs too). I'll be using TREs with Hellfires.
 
Just realized that... Oh well... No prize for me... ;-(
 
Booger weldz said:
If you look at the carrier bearing caps on a 9.5 you'll see the tabs that stick out into the housing to prevent deflection and the seperation of ring and pinion.

Handful of reasons why it's superior. But probably not 'necessary' unless you're gonna seriously beat the glass and sheet metal up on a nice truck.

The pinion and companion flange are available in 29 spline, even a 32(?) was used in a nitro 70 series build. A Dana 60 is 28 spline...

What's our Tcase output size/spline? Both suffer the same abuse and sit in the same torque situation, seperated only by a driveshaft...View attachment 1037072
Click to expand...
I couldn't find a way to get a 29 spline 5.29 pinion set for the rear - what are you running?

And arguably the diff gets more abuse as it takes impact from rocks and crap. But I agree with your point.

I'm just buying time with my front axle. I can't imagine it surviving much longer, but I drive politely
 
They're all fairly universal, but I've never seen one on an 80. Currie Enterprises has some kits as well that I've only heard good things about.
 
@nukegoat

I *think* You're right on the 5.29. The 29 stuff would be mix/match with 100series parts that stops @4.88 (I'm 27 front/rear w 5.29s). I *think* nitro has advertised the 5.29(29) in the indigo build on pirate or my 9.5 axle build inquiry thread on pirate however.
 
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