- Thread starter
- #541
OK, I dug up the 12V P/N, I think I'll go that route when I place the next UAE order, thanks
Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
- Thread starter Rock40
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- Thread starter
- #542
OK, I'm looking for a little input on the turbo lights/switches. I received the correct boost switches from Sheldon...
So...I can only get the red "overboost" light to energize. And it's turning on at regular/normal boost levels. Basically, the green light should be turning on but the red/overboost light is turning on instead. Any help? Swapping wires does nothing here...
The whole circuit should be 12V hot all the time and the lights should only come on when the contacts of the switches close allowing electricity to travel to ground. Why the overboost light is working the normal boost light is not is beyond me. Others mentioned needing to "jump" 12V to the correct terminals on the later 95'+ trucks...
Like this???? I'm too scared to actually try this as I'm afraid I'm going to damage the tach or other gauges. Really looking for some input here
So...I can only get the red "overboost" light to energize. And it's turning on at regular/normal boost levels. Basically, the green light should be turning on but the red/overboost light is turning on instead. Any help? Swapping wires does nothing here...
The whole circuit should be 12V hot all the time and the lights should only come on when the contacts of the switches close allowing electricity to travel to ground. Why the overboost light is working the normal boost light is not is beyond me. Others mentioned needing to "jump" 12V to the correct terminals on the later 95'+ trucks...
Like this???? I'm too scared to actually try this as I'm afraid I'm going to damage the tach or other gauges. Really looking for some input here
- Thread starter
- #543
Oh, and the Cruise Control doesn't work so back to the drawing board on that issue...
The first thought I had was to get the flexible PC board from an earlier HDJ80 or 81 and use that with your cluster...looks like those are not easily obtainable, and would likely entail re-pinning most of the other wires / plugs.
Any idea what "screw" on the US version is supposed to be for the low boost, and which is for the high boost? I would start there, and check that those work while the cluster is out of the truck using a 9v battery. It sounds like the "turbo" one is working with the high boost light but getting the signal from the low boost switch. Have you bench tested the switches? You could rig a bike pump to see when each triggers to verify that they are indeed acting as they should.
With the Cruise there could be a number of issues...there are some good diagnostics in the FSM and the EWD to figure out if it is a signal problem, or something more.
Any idea what "screw" on the US version is supposed to be for the low boost, and which is for the high boost? I would start there, and check that those work while the cluster is out of the truck using a 9v battery. It sounds like the "turbo" one is working with the high boost light but getting the signal from the low boost switch. Have you bench tested the switches? You could rig a bike pump to see when each triggers to verify that they are indeed acting as they should.
With the Cruise there could be a number of issues...there are some good diagnostics in the FSM and the EWD to figure out if it is a signal problem, or something more.
Sorry to hijack this thread. I'm new to this forum, and to Landcruisers. I just picked up a '97 HDJ81 with manual transmission and need some help. Basically, the guy I bought it off did an EGR delete, and for some reason, decided to pull all the vacuum hoses off. Basically, I have nothing going to the IP or the idle up actuator for the A/C and power steering (it's the one with 2 diaphragms and 3 vacuum ports). I've got massive amounts of black smoke out the exhaust under load and the engine shuts off if I turn on either the A/C or load the power steering pump. Runs fine otherwise. Just went through this whole thread hoping to find some info on where to hook these up but I'm still not too clear on what to do. Could really use some help here.
- Thread starter
- #546
I also looked at swapping the flexible board but oh what a pain. Like you said, most of the wires would need to be repinned.
I know the switches are working correctly, I did test them. I still haven't quite wrapped my head around the way the turbo lights function as it's a bit goofy that the both come on (ignition on, engine off) but go "off" once the truck starts. I think I'll go the 9V testing route the next time I have the entire dash apart (probably not long from now). Thanks again for your input Steve.
- Thread starter
- #547
MSP9994- From your description it's possible that the PO dicked around with the IP too. My truck does not have vacuum lines hooked to the power steering and the engine idle does not change at all during idle while turning the tires all over the place. I don't have AC currently (or the AC idle up) but others have stated that having that disconnected also makes zero difference at idle. The FT has a lot of rotating mass at idle so it does a very good job of just idling along, even if there is a light load on it. Bottom line, I wouldn't worry about the power steering or AC idle up being connected for now. Put some little rubber caps on them.
At a minimum, you need the a vacuum hose which runs from the boost compensator (top of the IP) over to the nipple/port on the intake plenum above the turbo. I can post a pic if you like. My engine is currently running a single vacuum line with a tee to feed the boost pressure switches. That's it.
Lots of black smoke is a sign of some serious overfueling and unless the IP has been screwed around with, it's not normal in a "stock" truck. Just to be sure, I'd go over everything on the engine and make sure that the all the un-used nipples/ports are capped. But again, my guess is the IP has been modified and the engine is likely starving for fuel at idle and being overfueled under load.
- Thread starter
- #548
Here's a link that might be useful also:
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread
The starter relay on HDJ81 is a 12v part. Should even say on the side, if the part number etc isn't worn off. I even tested that relay on a 12v battery before I sold it to you. Are you 100% sure the correct lead is wired to battery and solenoid?
CycloSteve, I sent you the same relay, so if you happen to be bench testing....
FWIW, this is the same relay that I used in all my FJ/FZJ80 swaps.
So either it's wired in wrong, or fried somehow.
FWIW, this is the same relay that I used in all my FJ/FZJ80 swaps.
So either it's wired in wrong, or fried somehow.
Mine is working fine triggered with a +9V battery, solid power across the feed to load side...though I am not testing to actually start, as no motor or starter in my rig at this point.
- Thread starter
- #552
Yeah, it's wired correctly. I don't think you sold me a bad relay, I think that I likely damaged it when I initially hooked it up incorrectly. Certainly not your fault and I've been very happy with all the parts I've received from you.
Went to the Pick N Pull to get more wires/pigtails. Found what I needed for the sedimenter, fuel heater, glow relay, and an upgraded wire for the starter relay.
With the one I found for the Glow Relay, the plug was correct, but the wires were 14ga and needed to be upgraded. Pulled the pins, carefully removed the wires and crimps and re-crimped and soldered a nice set of 10ga marine grade wire which matches the relay itself. Sealed it all up with more marine grade shrink tubing, which has a heat activated sealant. Turned out great.
So, does anyone have an idea as to the fuse which I need to run on the feed side? I have an open spot on my block terminal at the battery, and can easily add whatever high-amp fuse needed for this beast.
Everything is close to the battery too, so short runs for the +12v feed.
With the one I found for the Glow Relay, the plug was correct, but the wires were 14ga and needed to be upgraded. Pulled the pins, carefully removed the wires and crimps and re-crimped and soldered a nice set of 10ga marine grade wire which matches the relay itself. Sealed it all up with more marine grade shrink tubing, which has a heat activated sealant. Turned out great.
So, does anyone have an idea as to the fuse which I need to run on the feed side? I have an open spot on my block terminal at the battery, and can easily add whatever high-amp fuse needed for this beast.
Everything is close to the battery too, so short runs for the +12v feed.
Decided to dive head-first into the wiring loom, and remove that which is not necessary from the FZJ engine compartment...well that entails about 75% of the wiring loom.
First pulled the loom through the firewall and de-pinned that which was not needed.
Then separated the good from the unnecessary. Keepers to the front, FZJ to the rear.
Out with the old. I like having Toyota wiring for other projects on the truck, so this will all be tucked away in my box-o-wire.
I have now labeled every wire left in the engine compartment, and cross-checked with the EWD as to what remains down to each plug and pin. Will do a basic clean up of the loom, but will not do the full layout until the motor is in place.
First pulled the loom through the firewall and de-pinned that which was not needed.
Then separated the good from the unnecessary. Keepers to the front, FZJ to the rear.
Out with the old. I like having Toyota wiring for other projects on the truck, so this will all be tucked away in my box-o-wire.
I have now labeled every wire left in the engine compartment, and cross-checked with the EWD as to what remains down to each plug and pin. Will do a basic clean up of the loom, but will not do the full layout until the motor is in place.
- Thread starter
- #555
Looking very good Steve, I have a very similar pile of old Toyota wire too..... Any word on when the drivetrain is actually going in? I have the feeling that once the engine is in, your rig is going to be a lot more "plug and play" after all the prep work you finished ahead of time.
I need to ping @orangefj45 about the motor status and my slot in the shop. Hopefully the weekends and nights will pay off in the reduction in shop time and functional circuits. I am looking forward to having a running rig again, as it has been down since August. I need to get in some skiing or camping soon.
Ross, with the wiring did you find any use for the large Yellow/Red wire (IH1 #22) in the harness? From what I can tell, it only served the FZJ and has no use in the HDJ setup since it was part of the fuel system which no longer functions. This is the one which connects to the EB1 connector near the FZJ alternator wiring. If not used, I will remove that from the loom or cut/abandon high up.
I also have confirmed power for the reverse and VSS circuit on EC1 Pin 3. Re-pinned the Red/Black wire originally for the ATM to Pin 5 on the EC1 plug...thus Reverse should now work once the transmission and H151 sub-loom are attached.
Still need to wire and test all of my relays, but getting there one pin/plug at a time.
Ross, with the wiring did you find any use for the large Yellow/Red wire (IH1 #22) in the harness? From what I can tell, it only served the FZJ and has no use in the HDJ setup since it was part of the fuel system which no longer functions. This is the one which connects to the EB1 connector near the FZJ alternator wiring. If not used, I will remove that from the loom or cut/abandon high up.
I also have confirmed power for the reverse and VSS circuit on EC1 Pin 3. Re-pinned the Red/Black wire originally for the ATM to Pin 5 on the EC1 plug...thus Reverse should now work once the transmission and H151 sub-loom are attached.
Still need to wire and test all of my relays, but getting there one pin/plug at a time.
- Thread starter
- #557
Yeah, pin 22 on the IH1 is dead as it was used to power the injectors on fuel injected motor. I'd just un-pin it.
Steve, I didn't do any fancy wiring with the reverse lights and they work great. I just used the factory H151F and trans harness and plugged everything in, no problems
Steve, I didn't do any fancy wiring with the reverse lights and they work great. I just used the factory H151F and trans harness and plugged everything in, no problems
- Thread starter
- #558
I finally have the "turbo" lights on the tach working correctly, sheesh. I did a lot of testing with a 9V battery (as suggested by Steve) and this helped however I determined that the turbo lights behave a bit differently once the tach is installed into the cluster. I apologize for the very poor photo but this is the only one I have. Now I know how to do this, it'd be easy to replicate, just hard to figure out initially.
I ended up soldering a short lead from the "T-belt" screw which is actually the control for the red "over boost" light on the early model tachs. I soldered it to an empty lead on the USA cluster as shown. I then metered out the "dead" wires behind the cluster that used to control the auto trans indicator lights (park, neutral, drive, etc) until I found one of the wires that terminated at one of the un-used connectors behind the glove box. The rest just involved un-pinning/re-pinning the wire into the connector so it met up with my soldered lead from the "T-Belt" screw. I then ran this out to the engine bay and hooked it up appropriately and the gauge now works as it should.
Both the "green" and "red" boost lights illuminate with the ignition on and turn off once the engine is started. Under normal boost, only the "green" light illuminates as it should. I doubt I'll ever see the red "over boost" turn on with a factory turbo. For whatever reason, it seems that both of the turbo lights needed to be hooked up for them to function correctly. For the life of me, I could not get it to function if I just tried to hook up the "green" boost light.
Here's an explanatory picture of the leads on the back of the tach. I hope this wiring explanation saves someone the headache of trying to sort this out on their own swap in the future.
I ended up soldering a short lead from the "T-belt" screw which is actually the control for the red "over boost" light on the early model tachs. I soldered it to an empty lead on the USA cluster as shown. I then metered out the "dead" wires behind the cluster that used to control the auto trans indicator lights (park, neutral, drive, etc) until I found one of the wires that terminated at one of the un-used connectors behind the glove box. The rest just involved un-pinning/re-pinning the wire into the connector so it met up with my soldered lead from the "T-Belt" screw. I then ran this out to the engine bay and hooked it up appropriately and the gauge now works as it should.
Both the "green" and "red" boost lights illuminate with the ignition on and turn off once the engine is started. Under normal boost, only the "green" light illuminates as it should. I doubt I'll ever see the red "over boost" turn on with a factory turbo. For whatever reason, it seems that both of the turbo lights needed to be hooked up for them to function correctly. For the life of me, I could not get it to function if I just tried to hook up the "green" boost light.
Here's an explanatory picture of the leads on the back of the tach. I hope this wiring explanation saves someone the headache of trying to sort this out on their own swap in the future.
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- Thread starter
- #559
This isn't exactly swap related but....after sinking tons of time (not to mention money) into this rig I'm paranoid that it's going to get t-boned by a geriatric in a Prius. So, I spent the last 4 days working up a set of custom sliders. This is the passenger (right side) slider which is now just tacked together.
These are full length sliders and the main rail is 2"x3" 1/4" wall tubing. All the support legs are also full 1/4" wall tubing with the exception of the other .120 wall DOM legs and the DOM rub rails. The gussets are on the floor, I ran out of MIG wire to weld them all together
These sliders are also fully removable from the truck and I used a set of Jason's (Cruisin' Offroad) frame brackets for the three middle supports. I wanted the very outside of the slider to be tied into the frame however in case of an impact/load on the very end. In order to do so, I welded 1/4" scab plates onto the frame and I then drilled/tapped the scab plates and the frame for 7/16x20 bolts. It was a PAIN to get the outer support legs mounted which is probably why most commercial sliders don't have them. Yes, the 1/4" wall stuff makes these HEAVY but who cares?
This is the forward scab plate mount (nearest the engine)
These are full length sliders and the main rail is 2"x3" 1/4" wall tubing. All the support legs are also full 1/4" wall tubing with the exception of the other .120 wall DOM legs and the DOM rub rails. The gussets are on the floor, I ran out of MIG wire to weld them all together
These sliders are also fully removable from the truck and I used a set of Jason's (Cruisin' Offroad) frame brackets for the three middle supports. I wanted the very outside of the slider to be tied into the frame however in case of an impact/load on the very end. In order to do so, I welded 1/4" scab plates onto the frame and I then drilled/tapped the scab plates and the frame for 7/16x20 bolts. It was a PAIN to get the outer support legs mounted which is probably why most commercial sliders don't have them. Yes, the 1/4" wall stuff makes these HEAVY but who cares?
This is the forward scab plate mount (nearest the engine)
Picked up my re-lined main tank this week, as the POR-15 had failed. Should last longer than me. While it was out, I replaced the gas pickup with Diesel, and had that modified to work with my subtank setup (petrol transfer style). Also replaced the filler pipe, vent pipe, rubber pads, etc.
Quick question, though. Has anyone extended the breather tube up higher than simply into the rear frame? I have the factory diesel line and check valve, but a bit concerned that simply routing it back there is not a great idea should I get into deep water.
Also replaced the rear heater pipes from the firewall back, as it can only be done when the motor is out. Another item to never worry about for at least 25 years.
Quick question, though. Has anyone extended the breather tube up higher than simply into the rear frame? I have the factory diesel line and check valve, but a bit concerned that simply routing it back there is not a great idea should I get into deep water.
Also replaced the rear heater pipes from the firewall back, as it can only be done when the motor is out. Another item to never worry about for at least 25 years.