Builds Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap (1 Viewer)

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About time that I got around to this detail... Stock FZJ80 front shaft turned down to 28.5" flange to flange and balanced
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About time that I got around to this detail... Stock FZJ80 front shaft turned down to 28.5" flange to flange and balanced
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Wicked! I would definitely suggest people just modify their auto drive shafts instead of buying used manual ones. I'm still fighting drive line vibes from Garry's s*** drive shafts.
 
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For the benefit of this thread, here is a pic from EWD114F dec 90 Gen market 80 series.
Shows double pressure sensor detail.
 
As I mentioned to Ross, IIRC, the post 95 cluster circuit boards are not printed to receive 2x boost signals. Can someone confirm? So that is likely the reason that the red LED is lit up. I made a lead up using a micro loop connector and installed under the screw head.
I believe I just grounded mine out to kill LED, I am boosting 15lbs so it would have been lit all the time anyway.
 
Wicked! I would definitely suggest people just modify their auto drive shafts instead of buying used manual ones. I'm still fighting drive line vibes from Garry's s*** drive shafts.
LOL, no kidding. Not only did I not receive one of my paid for driveshafts from him but I also received the non-functioning tach which caused hours of head scratching. It's a bit of a crap shoot with used parts from the UK.... Modifying the auto shaft and having it balanced cost $187, not horrible in my opinion.
 
A wee bit of progress on my Safari Intercooler...man it is definitely a bit of work. Have the brackets and holes all drilled, but now need to chop off some of the gusset/support on my Shortbus bumper to allow an unfettered flow of air into the cooler...and that is 3/8" thick steel. :censor:

full
 
Quick question regarding the Glow Relay location. I am looking at mounting this next to the fuel filter, using one of the holes already in the LandTank Carbon Canister bracket. Is there any concern with this being too low due to potential water crossings, or is that not a huge worry? The Starter Relay is as high as it can get in the engine compartment, but the Glow is a bit lower due to space limitations.
 
Sorry Steve, can't help. I'd like to see a diagram showing correct Toyota starter relay wiring for a 12V conversion though. I have the correct relay and the electrical plugs but can't get it to go.

I received an HDJ81 CC motor and cable from Sheldon yesterday. I had the correct LHD diesel throttle cable on hand which runs from the pedal to the CC motor itself. Sheldon provided the cable from the CC motor to the bell crank on the 1HD-FT.
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The electrical plugs are identical, including the wiring colors. I have not tested this yet, we'll see. I heard awhile back that the CC won't work at speeds under 35MPH either...
 
Spent the rest of the day working on wrapping up the shifters and center console details. I do not get points for an OEM install here...

After cutting the holes in the 14g sheet metal plate, I re-used the threaded nutserts (already present in the tunnel) for mounting the plate. I ended up not using the factory lower shift boots and I instead used OEM transfer shift boots (USA model) to seal both the transfer and transmission from dirt and debris.
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The above pic also shows the flexible "goop" stuff that I used between the tunnel and the 14g adapter plate. I wish I knew what it was exactly but I don't as it was given to me and it's been floating around in my shop for years. It comes on a paper backing it is moderately sticky but will easily peel off surfaces. It's very pliable so it should seal the tunnel very well.

To secure the other shift boots, I drilled/tapped 1/4-20 stainless studs into the adapter plate. I then welded them on one side. This is the adapter plate with the boots installed. I'm using the factory Toyota (as Steve did) rear console support.
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I had to relocate the ABS sensor and alter the bracket to get it fit under the console box...
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Not factory but pretty clean. The center console itself needed some very minor filing on the front and passenger side to get it to sit down correctly. The shifter console will also need very minor filing to get it right also but again, minor.
 
Found this diagram which is how I have the relay wired up, no go....
1HD-FT Relay.jpg
 
Found this diagram which is how I have the relay wired up, no go....
View attachment 1206768
Something must be amiss in your wiring then. That diagram is not from a 1HDx engine, but the principle is the same.

The starter relay is very simple. Battery to one side, starter solonoid on the other. Ground for one side of the trigger, and +12v from the factory harness coming through the firewall when starting.
 
Yep, my thoughts also... I think I may have a bad starter relay. It's for 24V but Sheldon said it would work with 12V just fine
 
The diagram above looks right, and how I plan on running mine. I was able to trigger the solenoid with a 9v battery in my testing to see if the solenoid works. Is the solenoid passing the +12v to the starter? If not, then it is definitely a bad solenoid or the wiring is not right.
 
Spent the rest of the day working on wrapping up the shifters and center console details. I do not get points for an OEM install here...

After cutting the holes in the 14g sheet metal plate, I re-used the threaded nutserts (already present in the tunnel) for mounting the plate. I ended up not using the factory lower shift boots and I instead used OEM transfer shift boots (USA model) to seal both the transfer and transmission from dirt and debris.
View attachment 1206709
The above pic also shows the flexible "goop" stuff that I used between the tunnel and the 14g adapter plate. I wish I knew what it was exactly but I don't as it was given to me and it's been floating around in my shop for years. It comes on a paper backing it is moderately sticky but will easily peel off surfaces. It's very pliable so it should seal the tunnel very well.

To secure the other shift boots, I drilled/tapped 1/4-20 stainless studs into the adapter plate. I then welded them on one side. This is the adapter plate with the boots installed. I'm using the factory Toyota (as Steve did) rear console support.
View attachment 1206711
I had to relocate the ABS sensor and alter the bracket to get it fit under the console box...
View attachment 1206713
Not factory but pretty clean. The center console itself needed some very minor filing on the front and passenger side to get it to sit down correctly. The shifter console will also need very minor filing to get it right also but again, minor.

Ross, did you get those lower shift boots new? What are the part numbers? I want to do that for my trans shifter. I'm certain that the lower boot I used was at a weird enough angle it may not be sealed well... :(

Also, want to re do my shifter boots so they look like that? :D lol Looks awesome!
 
The diagram above looks right, and how I plan on running mine. I was able to trigger the solenoid with a 9v battery in my testing to see if the solenoid works. Is the solenoid passing the +12v to the starter? If not, then it is definitely a bad solenoid or the wiring is not right.
I agree, it should trigger. Meter said no 12V to the starter and no "clicking" sounds or anything either. If I circumvent the relay, the truck starts right up. The plan now is to purchase a new one when I make an overseas order.

Steve, did you go with the 12V or 24V version for yours?
 
Thanks Nick! I assume you mean the "1 piece" boots that encompass both shifters and are reinforced with a metal ring? Everything seals very nicely, my wife and I drove around for several weeks with nothing bolted down and neither one of us could hear noise from the drivetrain.

The LHD P/N is: 58280-60041 and the RHD P/N is: 58280-60031

I did get mine new, I believe from Dave at Japan4X4 but it was many months ago. I think I may have a used RHD boot down in my shop that came from the UK and you're welcome to it if interested. I still need to ship your clutch alignment tool back to you also...
 
Thanks Nick! I assume you mean the "1 piece" boots that encompass both shifters and are reinforced with a metal ring? Everything seals very nicely, my wife and I drove around for several weeks with nothing bolted down and neither one of us could hear noise from the drivetrain.

The LHD P/N is: 58280-60041 and the RHD P/N is: 58280-60031

I did get mine new, I believe from Dave at Japan4X4 but it was many months ago. I think I may have a used RHD boot down in my shop that came from the UK and you're welcome to it if interested. I still need to ship your clutch alignment tool back to you also...

Lol sorry I meant the other little boots. The t case shifter boot you put on the 5 speed shifter base to cover the trans tunnel.

I forgot about that alignment tool! Hold onto it until somebody needs it, as long as I know where it is I'm fine with it getting sent around. :)
 
Figures ;) Those boots are not new as I had quite a few used ones just hanging around. I just went and looked again, the RHD stuff and the USA stuff (transfer shifter) all looks the same. The boot fits around the transmission tower well enough that I'm not worried about dirt and grit getting into the transmission. I'd feel less confident about water but I have no intention of going swimming with this truck.

The USA P/N is: 36331-60030 however I have one used boot down in my shop now (just checked) if you're interested.
 

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