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About time that I got around to this detail... Stock FZJ80 front shaft turned down to 28.5" flange to flange and balanced
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About time that I got around to this detail... Stock FZJ80 front shaft turned down to 28.5" flange to flange and balanced
View attachment 1204515
LOL, no kidding. Not only did I not receive one of my paid for driveshafts from him but I also received the non-functioning tach which caused hours of head scratching. It's a bit of a crap shoot with used parts from the UK.... Modifying the auto shaft and having it balanced cost $187, not horrible in my opinion.Wicked! I would definitely suggest people just modify their auto drive shafts instead of buying used manual ones. I'm still fighting drive line vibes from Garry's s*** drive shafts.
Something must be amiss in your wiring then. That diagram is not from a 1HDx engine, but the principle is the same.Found this diagram which is how I have the relay wired up, no go....
View attachment 1206768
Spent the rest of the day working on wrapping up the shifters and center console details. I do not get points for an OEM install here...
After cutting the holes in the 14g sheet metal plate, I re-used the threaded nutserts (already present in the tunnel) for mounting the plate. I ended up not using the factory lower shift boots and I instead used OEM transfer shift boots (USA model) to seal both the transfer and transmission from dirt and debris.
View attachment 1206709
The above pic also shows the flexible "goop" stuff that I used between the tunnel and the 14g adapter plate. I wish I knew what it was exactly but I don't as it was given to me and it's been floating around in my shop for years. It comes on a paper backing it is moderately sticky but will easily peel off surfaces. It's very pliable so it should seal the tunnel very well.
To secure the other shift boots, I drilled/tapped 1/4-20 stainless studs into the adapter plate. I then welded them on one side. This is the adapter plate with the boots installed. I'm using the factory Toyota (as Steve did) rear console support.
View attachment 1206711
I had to relocate the ABS sensor and alter the bracket to get it fit under the console box...
View attachment 1206713
Not factory but pretty clean. The center console itself needed some very minor filing on the front and passenger side to get it to sit down correctly. The shifter console will also need very minor filing to get it right also but again, minor.
I agree, it should trigger. Meter said no 12V to the starter and no "clicking" sounds or anything either. If I circumvent the relay, the truck starts right up. The plan now is to purchase a new one when I make an overseas order.The diagram above looks right, and how I plan on running mine. I was able to trigger the solenoid with a 9v battery in my testing to see if the solenoid works. Is the solenoid passing the +12v to the starter? If not, then it is definitely a bad solenoid or the wiring is not right.
Thanks Nick! I assume you mean the "1 piece" boots that encompass both shifters and are reinforced with a metal ring? Everything seals very nicely, my wife and I drove around for several weeks with nothing bolted down and neither one of us could hear noise from the drivetrain.
The LHD P/N is: 58280-60041 and the RHD P/N is: 58280-60031
I did get mine new, I believe from Dave at Japan4X4 but it was many months ago. I think I may have a used RHD boot down in my shop that came from the UK and you're welcome to it if interested. I still need to ship your clutch alignment tool back to you also...
12v systems across the board on mine.Steve, did you go with the 12V or 24V version for yours?