Engine Rebuilding options for S/C
- Thread starter NLXTACY
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Seems a shame to button up the engine and neglect the tranny. West Coast Cruisers stocks the Wholesale Automatics upgraded torque converters and valve kits.
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- #43
You are absolutely right. Especially with 300k BUT that being said, it would cost me upwards of another 5k to do everything to the tranny and since a) I have zero problems with the trans today and b) I would rather use that money towards the engine now and c) I could always buy a low mileage used trans and upgrade it.
I would highly suggest using the Supra TT Denso pump, I had a Denso TT pump in my supra running over 500whp for 7 years with no issue. I needed more fuel so tried a dual Walbro set up only to have a pump fail and cost me an engine. I went back to my 7 year old Denso and a in line Bosch 044 pump and had no issues after up to 650whp.
Spend the extra to get the OEM quality performance pump (TT Supra Denso) it will pay for its self in reliability and safety in the long run.
Spend the extra to get the OEM quality performance pump (TT Supra Denso) it will pay for its self in reliability and safety in the long run.
your oil pump gasket might need replacing 
there are other options. rancho drivetrain engineering is building a full race trans for my 80 for half that...
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- #51
- Thread starter
- #52
My ears are perked, info?
- Thread starter
- #53
So I got my two valve covers from AJIK so I can experiment. I was going to anodize them both different colors as a test but I ran into an issue, there is a steel baffle riveted to the underside of the cover. You cant anodize ferrous metals because it's caustic and pretty much destroys the steel. So I need to remove the rivets if I still plan on anodizing. I am thinking about using the crappier if the two to experiment with first. Anyone know if the steel baffle is punch riveted or if it uses threaded rivets so I can just notch them and use a screw driver to remove? I know it's way out there but figured I would ask before I destroy it.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #54
Few updates
The engine is out and loaded onto Martin's truck. The intake plenums are being cleaned before I start grinding them down. The throttle body is in my office now while I try and decide who is going to do the service to it. I need to make my list of everything that still needs to be done.
The engine is out and loaded onto Martin's truck. The intake plenums are being cleaned before I start grinding them down. The throttle body is in my office now while I try and decide who is going to do the service to it. I need to make my list of everything that still needs to be done.
I would highly suggest using the Supra TT Denso pump, I had a Denso TT pump in my supra running over 500whp for 7 years with no issue. I needed more fuel so tried a dual Walbro set up only to have a pump fail and cost me an engine. I went back to my 7 year old Denso and a in line Bosch 044 pump and had no issues after up to 650whp.
Spend the extra to get the OEM quality performance pump (TT Supra Denso) it will pay for its self in reliability and safety in the long run.
With regards to the Supra TT fuel pump, here is what I have found for the Parts Numbers.
- Original Mr. T number = 23221-46110
- Original Denso Number = 195130-1020
- Current Denso Number (Improved) = 195130-1270
Steve
With regards to the Supra TT fuel pump, here is what I have found for the Parts Numbers.
Anyone using these currently in their S/C rigs? Sometime in the near-future thinking of changing mine out to one of these. Threadjack over.
- Original Mr. T number = 23221-46110
- Original Denso Number = 195130-1020
- Current Denso Number (Improved) = 195130-1270
Steve
Sorry mine was the original Toyota part number you listed, pump said denso on it though.
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- #58
Are you saying any of these will work?
Well at the end of the day, is this a machine for offroading, to go out of the country, like mexico and middle america? Or a road type machine to pound the pavement?
If it is more a machine to pound the pavement. Then do the extreme stuff. If you want a reliable build that works well in Mexico or middle america or travel up north. Stick with the less extreme mods.
Forged pistons do not mean that much even when the engine detonates at the wrong time, they still will get hurt. So if you want to play with higher boost pressures and aftermarket fuel management systems. go for it, but remember, horse power costs money.
A close friend here in the front range has a 1fz with stock 1mm over pistons(pistons, rings, crank, rods, block all cryo treated). He typically runs 10-12psi boost in his 80 series(has a few different pulleys). Stock fuel system, stock fuel pump. Plays with a O2 sensor enrichment(If I remember right). Has a copper gasket(back before we new about cometic). He built the engine him self, maintains and play with it. He is an old motor head and tinkers a lot. Problems I hear from time to time, predetonation or a miss. Keeping cats that will work with local emissions is a major pain(burns them out every other year). He takes this truck hunting every winter in the high moutains, flogs it, and makes it work hard. It really has not missed a beat.
Stock pistons are not a problem, neither are the rings(top is stainless, great for forced induction engines). All of the OBDII engines with superchargers I have put together are working well still. a couple of guys with stock engine componets with Turbos are doing great as well. I do not see needing the extra cost of forged pistons unless you are going the route of messing with some aftermarket fuel management system(a major cost). If you are planning on traveling out of california, keep it mostly stock and simpler. Other wise invest some major time in learning all you can, so when the truck has a bad day. You are able to take care of it. Because unless you are close to the builder or tuner to have him figure it out. You will be up sh*t creek with out a paddle. Keeping it simple for traveling is a better idea in my mind.
If you go with forged pistons, I would recommend keeping them similar to the design of the stock one.
Do not try to change the tops configuration too much to work well with the head design. I guess at the end of the day, you need to think about what you want to do with this truck, not really just the engine. But what type of vehicle you are building.
Anyhow I am busy and do not get on mud much. Maybe a few times a month these days. thank Onur, as he told me to look at this thread.
Also at the end of the day, money talks to get things done. Do you really have the budget for all the dreams you want. 10k is a bunch of dollars, but in the end I would guess you will spend a few more K on what you are talking about if you go much more than stock and keeping it simple.
If it is more a machine to pound the pavement. Then do the extreme stuff. If you want a reliable build that works well in Mexico or middle america or travel up north. Stick with the less extreme mods.
Forged pistons do not mean that much even when the engine detonates at the wrong time, they still will get hurt. So if you want to play with higher boost pressures and aftermarket fuel management systems. go for it, but remember, horse power costs money.
A close friend here in the front range has a 1fz with stock 1mm over pistons(pistons, rings, crank, rods, block all cryo treated). He typically runs 10-12psi boost in his 80 series(has a few different pulleys). Stock fuel system, stock fuel pump. Plays with a O2 sensor enrichment(If I remember right). Has a copper gasket(back before we new about cometic). He built the engine him self, maintains and play with it. He is an old motor head and tinkers a lot. Problems I hear from time to time, predetonation or a miss. Keeping cats that will work with local emissions is a major pain(burns them out every other year). He takes this truck hunting every winter in the high moutains, flogs it, and makes it work hard. It really has not missed a beat.
Stock pistons are not a problem, neither are the rings(top is stainless, great for forced induction engines). All of the OBDII engines with superchargers I have put together are working well still. a couple of guys with stock engine componets with Turbos are doing great as well. I do not see needing the extra cost of forged pistons unless you are going the route of messing with some aftermarket fuel management system(a major cost). If you are planning on traveling out of california, keep it mostly stock and simpler. Other wise invest some major time in learning all you can, so when the truck has a bad day. You are able to take care of it. Because unless you are close to the builder or tuner to have him figure it out. You will be up sh*t creek with out a paddle. Keeping it simple for traveling is a better idea in my mind.
If you go with forged pistons, I would recommend keeping them similar to the design of the stock one.
Do not try to change the tops configuration too much to work well with the head design. I guess at the end of the day, you need to think about what you want to do with this truck, not really just the engine. But what type of vehicle you are building.
Anyhow I am busy and do not get on mud much. Maybe a few times a month these days. thank Onur, as he told me to look at this thread.
Also at the end of the day, money talks to get things done. Do you really have the budget for all the dreams you want. 10k is a bunch of dollars, but in the end I would guess you will spend a few more K on what you are talking about if you go much more than stock and keeping it simple.
The numbers for the Supra TT should all work, with the last one, 195130-1270 being the most up-to-date in Denso replacements.
I cross-referenced info from ToyoDIY and several Supra forums. It also looks like there are other high-HP groups who really like this pump (Corvette, etc.).
The best part about these is that they are drop-in applications, they should be widely available, and are uber-reliable. They may be overkill for a slightly modified rig, but cost about the same as a new standard 1FZ pump, and the extra fuel will just come back into the tank from the return line.
Steve