Engine Rebuilding options for S/C

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Agreed, sounds like a fun project, and one I'm pretty familiar with as well! Robbie (Powderpig on the board here) came out to my place last year and did a full rebuild for me; this is what we came up with:

*Compression - stock (block decked .010, standard thickness Cometic head gasket)
*ARP head studs (the kit for the Supra 2JZ)
*Cylinders bored +1mm, new Toyota pistons/rings/bearings/etc.
*Still using the stock fuel pump, may go the Supra route at some point but see no need for now
*Stock injectors, cleaned and flow matched by Witch Hunter
*TRD SC, now running a 2.8" pulley and "homebrew" water/air intercooler setup - highest boost I've seen with this combo is about 7.8 psi
*I went ahead and powdercoated the valve cover, so far it's holding up great. Exhaust manifolds were ceramic coated and the air filter canister I just had sand blasted and then painted with some rattle can "high temp silver ceramic" paint from VHT. I didn't want to ceramic coat this piece because after sand blasting it was clear that it is held together partly with some sort of epoxy that seemed like it might melt in the 400+ degree curing oven.

After putting 11,000 miles on the truck in the past year, I can say I'm very happy with the way the rebuild turned out. The power is very nice and the delivery is smooth. Running 315's with stock gears and I can easily maintain 75 mph up any grade, even fully loaded and with a 1,500 lb trailer in tow. A few other things I can recommend that will keep the truck happy with the supercharger setup:

*PLX digital EGT/Boost/AFR gauges - these are awesome and I love the flexibility to daisy-chain additional sensors and display up to 4 of them with only one 2 1/16" gauge so the dash remains relatively uncluttered
*Upgraded transmission valve body - I'm using a modified valve body from IPT since I had it left over from my previous 80 that was wrecked. If I had it to do over again I'd probably go with the Wholesale Automatic extreme valve body now that they are available stateside, but the IPT made a huge improvement over stock as well.

Good luck and hope the info helps!
 
DJSIXBILLION you probably saved me a good chunk of change and time. Although I don't think you had the "stock compression" with the deck height changed and cylinders +1mm with stock height gasket. I could be wrong though.

Sounds like the Supra pump or a good Bosch unit is the way to go.

Still unsure about the flow rate of the stock injectors, Luckily getting them cleaned and matched is relatively simple and relatively easy to change after the fact in case they need to be changed.

I hadn't considered the pulley diameter up to this point but again its another thing that could be changes later.

Thanks a bunch on the tip on the epoxy on the air filter canister. That could have been an expensive mistake. Rattle can it is.

The trans valve body upgrade is on the short list but with 300k on the trans and transfer I think I may just replace it down the line at another time. We'll see.

Looking up PLX digital now: PLX Devices Inc - USA
 
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Found an interesting place for the throttle body rebore and its pretty darn reasonable:
http://www.maxbore.com/Pictures.html

Throttle Body bored out and the intake manifold port matched (intake plenum side only) for $215 :hhmm:

ProFlow is a little bit more but they will powdercoat and no intake port matching:
http://www.proflowdesign.com/services.htm

For the Fuel Injectors there is another option of Witch Hunter as described above:
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.php4

Fuel Injector calculators:
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4
 
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NLXTACY said:
Found an interesting place for the throttle body rebore and its pretty darn reasonable:
http://www.maxbore.com/Pictures.html

Throttle Body bored out and the intake manifold port matched (intake plenum side only) for $215 :hhmm:

ProFlow is a little bit more but they will powdercoat and no intake port matching:
http://www.proflowdesign.com/services.htm

For the Fuel Injectors there is another option of Witch Hunter as described above:
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.php4

Fuel Injector calculators:
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4
Click to expand...

I am using Witch Hunter for my current customers injectors. Will advise on what I get back from them, if it will help with the decision process.
 
NLXTACY said:
DJSIXBILLION you probably saved me a good chunk of change and time. Although I don't think you had the "stock compression" with the deck height changed and cylinders +1mm with stock height gasket. I could be wrong though.
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Glad to help! Maybe Robbie will chime in himself, but stock or fairly close to stock compression ratio is what we were shooting for to maintain reliability. Cometic will make the gasket in any thickness you want, but if I remember correctly we just went with the "default" which is thicker than the OEM Toyota piece.

NLXTACY said:
Still unsure about the flow rate of the stock injectors, Luckily getting them cleaned and matched is relatively simple and relatively easy to change after the fact in case they need to be changed.
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Yeah, with clean flow-matched OEM injectors I don't think you will have any issues with fueling. My AFR's are very stable and seem to be in the perfect range - 14.7 at steady state cruise, then quickly jumping to 12.xx on part-throttle acceleration, up to 10.xx at WOT. Forgot to mention earlier that this is with the Landtank MAF housing and "calibration sleeve" that he just came up with a while ago.

NLXTACY said:
I hadn't considered the pulley diameter up to this point but again its another thing that could be changes later.
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Yup, I ran with the stock 3.2" pulley for 6 months or so just to get a good baseline before adding the smaller pulley and intercooler. After making those 2 changes at the same time, EGT and AFR numbers are essentially unchanged, there is just more power on tap and it comes online quicker.

NLXTACY said:
Thanks a bunch on the tip on the epoxy on the air filter canister. That could have been an expensive mistake. Rattle can it is.
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Agreed! I would definitely go for the ceramic coating on the exhaust manifolds though, and I think if I was doing it over again I might even hit the intake manifold as well just for good measure. Seems like it would help reject some under hood heat from reaching the intake charge, and the additional cost would be minimal.
 
djsixbillion said:
Agreed! I would definitely go for the ceramic coating on the exhaust manifolds though, and I think if I was doing it over again I might even hit the intake manifold as well just for good measure. Seems like it would help reject some under hood heat from reaching the intake charge, and the additional cost would be minimal.
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Didn't think about the intake manifold getting ceramic coating love but makes sense.
 
Got this email from RC Engineering today about the injectors:

We offer several different sizes for the 97 Land Cruiser. What
horsepower figures do you anticipate the supercharger system in place?
Does the kit come with any additional fueling aids for supercharged
operation?

We do offer the throttle body boring service and cost is $249.00 with a
3-4 business day turn around time.

Thank you for your interest in RC Engineering. Please feel free to call
or e-mail us with any further questions you may have.

Regards,

John Park
General Manager

RC Engineering, Inc.
20807 Higgins Ct.
Torrance, Ca 90501
T (310) 320-2277
F (310) 782-1346
rceng.com
 
VANGO hooked me up with two valve covers. So As soon as I get those I will clean them up and anodize one black with teflon and the other red anodized. Its purely an experiment. If I don't use them I will just post them up for sale.
 
Just had a long talk with Martin Davidson (818-705-2441). Great guy to talk to on the phone. The engine comes out either Thursday or Friday but the idea is for him to have it before the weekend.

He has two different hot tanks/chemicals. One for cast blocks and one for aluminum. He always uses the aluminum tank for the cast blocks JUST because of the oil pump bushing. I let him know about LANDTANK's bushing, sold through 1FZ-FE Oil Pump Bushing. | AJIK Overland Exchange

So now he will be using the stronger cleaner for the block and will probably be ordering more of those bushings in the future.

We do not know the stat of the engine now but he recommended Cometic and forged pistons right off the bad for S/C applications. He also recommended staying as close to stock compression in order to keep the reliability in place. So that will answer my compression questions.

I will be stripping off the throttle body, intake manifold and injectors before the truck gets sent over so that I can start moving on those. I will be picking up the cylinder head from Martin Davidson sometime next week and I will start the process of porting and polishing the intake/exhaust runners. I have a set of OEM gaskets that I can use to scribe from. I just need to go buy a dremel and the right bits :P
 
NLXTACY said:
See I originally was going to but timing meant I couldn't use him. So now I would just feel guilty picking his brain and not be able to use for any of the work. :frown:
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I don't think you need to worry about this with Robbie.

He really is interested in helping all cruiser folk.

Robbie is a top notch cruiser resource.
 
beno said:
I don't think you need to worry about this with Robbie.

He really is interested in helping all cruiser folk.

Robbie is a top notch cruiser resource.
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You never know, your question and his answer could end up in the next edition of Toyota Trails. Drop Robbie an eMail or TXT, and he will chime in with a level of experience beyond 10 other techs combined.

:cheers:

Steve
 
CycloSteve said:
You never know, your question and his answer could end up in the next edition of Toyota Trails. Drop Robbie an eMail or TXT, and he will chime in with a level of experience beyond 10 other techs combined.

:cheers:

Steve
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On it.

On a side note, I forgot to include installing the AmSoil filter mod. I need to order that up now!
 
I run a Keene-Bell AFPR that increases the fuel pressure based upon the boost. The original OEM pump failed to build enough pressure at the low voltage level the fuel pump relay switches. Bypassed the relay to run full voltage and worked good until the pump eventually failed. I decided to replace it with the TT Supra pump. Size wise was a tight fit, required splicing a new connector supplied with the pump. It definitely did not like the dual voltage setup of the Land Cruiser which required bypassing the fuel pump relay as well. The Walbro is a better pump at a cheaper price but produces more noise. I never found information about the Walbro being able to operate on anything except 12V. This was all on my 94 which requires something other than a stock fuel delivery setup as compared to the 95+ that have the faster ECU.

I personally would never run over 5 psi boost on the TRD supercharger without adding some type of intercooler. Don't bother running a boost gauge, monitor EGT and A/F instead which provides useful data
.
 
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