Cruiser_Nerd said:Nope, can't think of anyone, hope he got his info, or pointed him this way.
From what I gather, there wasn't an opportunity to get his info, but he was pointed in this direction. Hopefully he'll show up.
Drum Brakes!
- Thread starter Cruiser_Nerd
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From what I gather, there wasn't an opportunity to get his info, but he was pointed in this direction. Hopefully he'll show up.
Since the 45 is a rusty turd and not worth mentioning, I guess it'll be the 25
Shoe springs
I didn't see it in the parts thread, but does anyone know a source for replacement brake shoe return springs?
I didn't see it in the parts thread, but does anyone know a source for replacement brake shoe return springs?
- Thread starter
- #64
If you're in a pinch, I should have a bunch of used ones. Ask Fox about my quality used springs. 
Cruiser_Nerd said:If you're in a pinch, I should have a bunch of used ones. Ask Fox about my quality used springs.
Nope, not in a real pinch. Just wanted to replace the ones I have with brand new ones since I've since replaced everything else in the system. But thanks anyway.
Well, I took apart my brakes to try and figure out what is wrong. This is my first FJ25 brake job so this thread has really helped. So I pull the wheel cylinders out and hone and rebuild them not really noticing any issues with them other than it took a 13mm wrench to get the bolts off the back. I decide to put new 12mm head bolts on. I try to thread them in and there a no go! So i check the threads and they're 5/16 US!! then I notice the 13608 embossed on them. 
Now these worked before I had the m/c rebuilt and alhough they were very sticky, they did work. The application is:
1971 : OLDSMOBILE : 98 : 7.5L 455 cubic inch V8 : Brake/Wheel Hub : REAR Wheel Cylinder with the police package. They are 1" bore wheel cylinders. They fit into the backing plates perfectly. The bolt holes may hve been enlarged slightly.
It looks like the fittings for the hard lines are US also. I'm not sure what the application is for the front flex lines yet.
Now these worked before I had the m/c rebuilt and alhough they were very sticky, they did work. The application is:1971 : OLDSMOBILE : 98 : 7.5L 455 cubic inch V8 : Brake/Wheel Hub : REAR Wheel Cylinder with the police package. They are 1" bore wheel cylinders. They fit into the backing plates perfectly. The bolt holes may hve been enlarged slightly.
It looks like the fittings for the hard lines are US also. I'm not sure what the application is for the front flex lines yet.
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This truck is killing me! I have a known oood master cylinder on it, all wheel cylinders rebuilt, and all brakes adjusted correctly afaik, brake pedal rod adjusted within factory specs and I still cant get a hard pedal. The shoes are moving and the brakes are working enough that when the pedal is depressed, the drums cant be moved by hand. There has to be air in the system somewhere still, Im suspecting trapped in the master cylinder.
And my pressure bleeder wont fit onto an FJ25 master cylinder.
Ideas?I think I'm going to pull the m/c and bench bleed it again
And my pressure bleeder wont fit onto an FJ25 master cylinder.
Ideas?I think I'm going to pull the m/c and bench bleed it again
- Thread starter
- #69
If it's air it's probably the line that goes up and over valve cover. 
If you want to borrow my homemade pressure bleeder (air chuck threaded into a 25 cap) I'll grab it tonight so I have it with me.
If you want to borrow my homemade pressure bleeder (air chuck threaded into a 25 cap) I'll grab it tonight so I have it with me.
sweet, I'll borrow it. I'm working 7AM to 7PM friday. I could run up to your office during lunch or stop at the house on the way home?
If it's air it's probably the line that goes up and over valve cover.
Thanks to Cammo for posting up the old thread on his FJ28, ( https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj25-owners-group/272740-aussie-fj28.html ) I figured out what the little tabs on my drums were for. My poor attempt at the initial brake adjustment was marginal at best. With the tabs off, I was able to see the shoes and properly adjust the brakes. I dont know how anyone could do it without the holes. with the brakes adjusted, and a quick pressure bleed (thanks Nerd for the tapped cap) I now have a hard pedal.
I might be able to actually drive it again tomorrow, WOOT!!
I might be able to actually drive it again tomorrow, WOOT!!
- Thread starter
- #72
That's a relief, I figured it was headed for disc brakes for sure........................ 
I took pics of the adjustment windows for those that don't know what I'm talking about:
I adjusted the lower adjusters first which seem to center the shoes in the drum, then I adjusted the uppers which take up the air gap between the shoes and the inner drum surface using the window to see how much clearance there really is.
I adjusted the lower adjusters first which seem to center the shoes in the drum, then I adjusted the uppers which take up the air gap between the shoes and the inner drum surface using the window to see how much clearance there really is.
technologically challenged west aussie is struggling here today. just posted a range of comments and observations on this topic which somehow evaporised into the ether; much to the dismay of someone with my computing and typing skills.
anyways the core of it is that my 25 is running different brake drums front and rear. rear drums are cast 00308 and have the inspection hole and cover. they are a 'deeper' drum than the front (ie the flange that bolts to the axle is somewhat proud of the pad wearing surface). the front drums are cast 00217, are a shallower drum, and only have a cast blank where the inspection hole would be.
both backing plates are 25 however the front diff is a later unit. would this diff change have necessitated an axle change also?
just fishing for comments on what other mudders experiences are along these lines. thanks
anyways the core of it is that my 25 is running different brake drums front and rear. rear drums are cast 00308 and have the inspection hole and cover. they are a 'deeper' drum than the front (ie the flange that bolts to the axle is somewhat proud of the pad wearing surface). the front drums are cast 00217, are a shallower drum, and only have a cast blank where the inspection hole would be.
both backing plates are 25 however the front diff is a later unit. would this diff change have necessitated an axle change also?
just fishing for comments on what other mudders experiences are along these lines. thanks
- Thread starter
- #75
The front and rear drums are different, I never noticed the casting numbers. Differential doesn't make a difference, strictly the mounting surface to backing plate dimension.
Side note: Maybe the reason the centered 10 spline 40 axle shaft is is different from the 25 axle shaft(but I never measured).
Differential doesn't make a difference, strictly the mounting surface to backing plate dimension. Side note: Maybe the reason the centered 10 spline 40 axle shaft is is different from the 25 axle shaft(but I never measured).
thanks cruiser nerd. yours have the inspection hole on the front drums?
my old pads are paper thin but luckily not worn enough to have damaged the drums. i will be getting them relined. wheel cylinders and clutch master should be fine with a hone and some new buckets. brake master shall be getting sleeved. shall be trying to find buckets and some compatable boots locally.
my old pads are paper thin but luckily not worn enough to have damaged the drums. i will be getting them relined. wheel cylinders and clutch master should be fine with a hone and some new buckets. brake master shall be getting sleeved. shall be trying to find buckets and some compatable boots locally.
- Thread starter
- #77
Most of mine didn't have inspection covers, it may have went away in 1960. The earlier ones did though. I believe the cylinders are all standard 1" bore so they should be no trouble to find buckets and boots locally.
I'm dropping off my shoes to get relined. Does anybody know how thick the material should be?
- Thread starter
- #79
Jeff thanks for the reminder, I do have it somewhere in my notes if not here. Will post it up. Wouldn't be surprised if a spec wasn't in the manual, never bothered to look myself.
I don't have the repair manual 