Driveshaft Rehab? (1 Viewer)

jaymar

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Has anyone done a picture-heavy thread detailing the inspection and service of driveshafts and associated parts? I'm fixing to do a 2" lift, and figure I should sort this (and brake lines and LSPV mount) out first. Heavy clunk when shifting to/from reverse. Play in the shaft. PO was not kind. Best I've found so far is this...

 
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I recently replaced the front and rear prop shafts on my rig with new genuine ones via partsouq. Might be worth considering going that route and save your energy for other projects. Didn't come to too much money considering, and I still have the old ones as emergency spares, or to rebuild properly if I choose.
 

Hornd

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These Driveshafts are not Unique so Any Decent Video on Youtube should suffice.
That being said, there is only 1 Company outside of OEM for the U Joints.
I think it begins with "M".
 
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These Driveshafts are not Unique so Any Decent Video on Youtube should suffice.
That being said, there is only 1 Company outside of OEM for the U Joints.
I think it begins with "M".
Matsuba from cruiser outfitters

Are you looking to do a thread on it and just asking if it’s already been done, or looking for help?
 
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jaymar

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I recently replaced the front and rear prop shafts on my rig with new genuine ones via partsouq. Might be worth considering going that route and save your energy for other projects. Didn't come to too much money considering, and I still have the old ones as emergency spares, or to rebuild properly if I choose.
What did that run you, and which parts were included?
 

jaymar

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Matsuba from cruiser outfitters

Are you looking to do a thread on it and just asking if it’s already been done, or looking for help?
Both. :) Can't find a Matsuba username here. Found a Matsui, but no hits on "driveshaft" or "drive shaft"
 
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Can get brand new shafts from toyotA still. If the slip yoke is done I don’t think much you can do. Last time I bought u joints oem we’re bout 45 bucks I think. When I change joint I usually just pull shaft apart clean out the slip yoke area and hand grease it all, put back together.
 
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Front matsuba

Rear matsuba

I recall him saying he sells far more of these than OEM. I went with these as they’re known to be good, saved some cash and gave my money to a great outfit. OEM is of course excellent, so the choice is yours

I skimmed the thread you posted and it seems pretty good. Ujoints are easy, and no need to replace the whole shaft unless there’s something wrong with it. Mark the halves with a paint pen/etc to make sure it goes back together the same way, pull it apart, then hand clean and re-grease the splines on both ends. Doesn’t take a ton, just a nice coating in all the grooves. Don’t use the zerk fitting, it doesn’t really get to the splines and you risk overfilling the cavity, which isn’t good. Don’t know if it matters if the flange orientation gets flipped in relation to the shaft, but I mark those as well just to make sure it goes back together the same way.

As mentioned earlier, this is a standard job so you don’t need a Toyota specific video, although there’s probably some out there. I’ve always had success with a standard joint press combined with socket/hammer/wood blocks as necessary
 
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Can get brand new shafts from toyotA still. If the slip yoke is done I don’t think much you can do. Last time I bought u joints oem we’re bout 45 bucks I think. When I change joint I usually just pull shaft apart clean out the slip yoke area and hand grease it all, put back together.
Just judging by the OP’s post I would really take a peek at the slip yoke of the shaft. I had play in mine at 300k and the joints were perfect. If the joints are $45 a piece and your time, I still wouldn’t waste time saving a driveshaft if it were me. I just replaced my rear shaft with brand new from the dealer and it was $240 out the door a year ago. Everyone’s budget is different, but you can’t fix slip yoke play.

Just my .02 cents
 

mudgudgeon

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Both. :) Can't find a Matsuba username here. Found a Matsui, but no hits on "driveshaft" or "drive shaft"

Lol
Matsuba it's the brand name of an OEM quality U joint
 
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Just judging by the OP’s post I would really take a peek at the slip yoke of the shaft. I had play in mine at 300k and the joints were perfect. If the joints are $45 a piece and your time, I still wouldn’t waste time saving a driveshaft if it were me. I just replaced my rear shaft with brand new from the dealer and it was $240 out the door a year ago. Everyone’s budget is different, but you can’t fix slip yoke play.

Just my .02 cents

That's pretty cheap. It would likely be more to have a shop cut and re-end and balance the tubes.
 
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Lol
Matsuba it's the brand name of an OEM quality U joint
Haha, I somehow missed that in his post. So: Matsuba joints, purchased from Kurt at cruiser outfitters 😜

And yes, especially if the PO was not kind as you say, this is the time to inspect beyond the joints. As mentioned, feel for play in the slip shaft splines and visually inspect. You should be able to feel if it’s too sloppy. Beeeeend and twist!
 
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lumbee1

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Interesting this came up. For the past year, I've noticed some odd harmonics between 45 and 52mph. Around this time last year, I was high centered on a rock and scrapped my rear driveshaft on the rocks. The damage looked to be completely superficial but it might be a ever so slight out of balance issue with the rear shaft.
 

Somebodyelse5

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Has anyone done a picture-heavy thread detailing the inspection and service of driveshafts and associated parts? I'm fixing to do a 2" lift, and figure I should sort this (and brake lines and LSPV mount) out first. Heavy clunk when shifting to/from reverse. Play in the shaft. PO was not kind. Best I've found so far is this...


I am running the Slee stainless extended brake lines and they have been great. I ended up just tying my lspv in the "full open" position, all the way up.... seems to be the way to go, but this is a divisive issue...
 
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Had I realized how affordable an entire Toyota driveshaft is, I wouldn't have gone to the trouble of replacing my u-joints. I got lucky, but you really should have the shaft re-balanced afterwards, plus plenty of people cause damage by having a needle fall to the bottom of a cup while pressing in new joints, damaging the ears, etc. Not to mention ending up with an unknown result due to it being a new-to-you used rig. Toss the existing shaft in the emergency spares pile, I say.

As for inspection, the '94 FSM says to check that axial play of the u-joints is 0.05mm (0.0020"). You use a magnetic base with a runout gauge to do it. I don't think the FSM gives any standard to evaluate the slip joint.

By the way, the FSM says to install the appropriate c-clip to achieve the correct amount of play when installing new u-joints. I wonder if anyone actually does this...

Screenshot_20220829-173146_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
 

jaymar

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Haha, I somehow missed that in his post. So: Matsuba joints, purchased from Kurt at cruiser outfitters 😜

And yes, especially if the PO was not kind as you say, this is the time to inspect beyond the joints. As mentioned, feel for play in the slip shaft splines and visually inspect. You should be able to feel if it’s too sloppy. Beeeeend and twist!
You didn’t miss it; I added “username” to clarify after seeing your post… yeah, about that. Thing is, I don’t know what’s sloppy and what’s not because I have zip experience with driveshafts. I do know I shouldn’t be clunking when I shift to/from R while parked. :) It actually stopped doing that recently. I don’t know whether to be pleased or frightened…
 

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