Dome Light Bulb for 60

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can't comment on his price for the bulb.... but the led's that George makes at taskled.com are BRIGHT
Regular old 12v led's are less bright, from what I've seen.

I just installed the $30 gizmo in our hj60, and it is so bright that my hand casts a shadow during the daytime (if I'm in the shade or its a cloudy day).

At night the difference is unreal. Definately worth every penny of the $30 I spent on it. My only regret is that I didn't buy another for the rear, now I'll have to pay shipping again.

Excellent product.

I'd be interested to hear if people with the 6 led "bulb" from the other suppliers are very happy with their lights. Certainly costs a lot less.
 
sandcruiser said:
can't comment on his price for the bulb.... but the led's that George makes at taskled.com are BRIGHT
Regular old 12v led's are less bright, from what I've seen.

I just installed the $30 gizmo in our hj60, and it is so bright that my hand casts a shadow during the daytime (if I'm in the shade or its a cloudy day).

At night the difference is unreal. Definately worth every penny of the $30 I spent on it. My only regret is that I didn't buy another for the rear, now I'll have to pay shipping again.

Excellent product.

I'd be interested to hear if people with the 6 led "bulb" from the other suppliers are very happy with their lights. Certainly costs a lot less.
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Yeah they are definately worth the 30$ ea. I have both front and rear - REALLY nice. The difference looks to be that they use a brighter LED called a Luxeon or something. 1 W output... significantly more than a "super bright" LED.

I did order some of the 6 bulb LED lights and i will let you guys know how they turn out in comparison.

cali - no that's a good addition to the post, since the LED backup lights seem to be pretty much useless...

rob
 
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loeky said:
thanks for the tip the article in the 80s section. kinda bummed they aren't as bright as i'd hoped.

has anyone used the bulbs from here:
http://www.ledtronics.com/

these guys are more expensive, but now i'm wondering if it's because they are better. might have to buy one and find out.
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They're quite a bit more expensive, but from the couple of reviews I've read, they are far and away the best. I plan to go through them when I finally convert my truck to LEDs. They also sell a resistor that you can wire up to your blinker bulbs so that they'll draw enough power to allow your flasher to work at its normal pace.

I had always thought electronic flashers weren't suceptible to the amount of load....until one of my bulbs burnt out and it blinked about twice as fast :rolleyes:
 
Spook50 said:
They also sell a resistor that you can wire up to your blinker bulbs so that they'll draw enough power to allow your flasher to work at its normal pace.

I had always thought electronic flashers weren't suceptible to the amount of load....until one of my bulbs burnt out and it blinked about twice as fast :rolleyes:
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that's what i like...for my blinkers. it lets me know when i have a bulb out. the running lights and such are different, you never know when they die. those are what i want to swap out w/ LEDs.

the resistor they sell is basically a big heatsink - let us know where you mount it. it has to do something with the energy...
 
How about 24 volt LEDs? I've googled for naught. Anyway to change with a resistance load perhaps? How about in series?

LEDs confuse me quite honestly.
 
My dome light has a quarter-sized hole right in the middle of the clear plastic cover...like a mouse chewed through it...either the light eroded it over time or the PO cut a hole in it for one reason or another?!!!
 
SAS said:
My dome light has a quarter-sized hole right in the middle of the clear plastic cover...like a mouse chewed through it...either the light eroded it over time or the PO cut a hole in it for one reason or another?!!!
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ventilation? or maybe a space heater?

those bulbs get HOT! get a used clear cover from cruiserparts.net (no idea $) or a new from SOR. then swap in the LED - it's awesome. (and wont melt the new one)

if on a budget, maybe get the $5ish from the LED shop in Oz. i ordered some, but honestly doubt they will be nearly as bright. if you get the one from www.taskled.com i really doubt you will be disappointed - unless you only get one... (right sandcruiser?)

rob
 
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sl33py said:
that's what i like...for my blinkers. it lets me know when i have a bulb out. the running lights and such are different, you never know when they die. those are what i want to swap out w/ LEDs.

the resistor they sell is basically a big heatsink - let us know where you mount it. it has to do something with the energy...
Click to expand...

Here's the page for their load resistor. It's actually a resistor surrounded by a big heatsink, because them s***s get HOT. Looks like a very simple setup though. Just wire it in parallel with the blinker LED "bulb" on each tail light assembly. But it relies on its mounting surface for cooling. I'd just mount it to a quarter panel with some thermal epoxy instead of drilling anything. That stuff is STOUT.

There line of automotive LEDs is here. If you look at the beam pattern from their bayonet replacement LEDs, it looks far better than the cheapo LED replacements, due to the fact that they have side aimed LEDs in the "bulb", taking advantage of the reflector surface in the vehicle's light assembly. I'd like to mod my front blinkers so that the whole lens lights up instead of just a square section of it. Might be a better attention getter.

They also make neat little candle LED thingies that I'll order for my sister before Christmas :D
 
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If I did it over again, I'd get two of George's LEDs- one for the dome, one for the rear. Very bright. Cool. Nice white color too...

Now, the thing I don't really get is why people are putting LED's in the blinkers. Seems to me that they draw little current and if they fry the car tells you (faster flashing) and they aren't all that critical... seems like a lot of expense. I plan to put them in my clearance lights (white) up front as well as my running light (red) rear to reduce electrical draw and extend the life of those lights. Need to start looking at ways to reduce total amps as I'm planning to include a 14amp fuel heater and want to make sure that the anemic alternator can keep up.
 
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