Does your rear seat rattle? Check this out...

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franklin40

franklin40

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i ordered some and anxiously await delivery! i’ve been able to sort out so many rattles but the rear seat drives me nuts on washboard. i don’t think my seats even have the old worn ones anymore!! i’ll post them up when i get them!
 
Fyffer

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i ordered some and anxiously await delivery! i’ve been able to sort out so many rattles but the rear seat drives me nuts on washboard. i don’t think my seats even have the old worn ones anymore!! i’ll post them up when i get them!
You will love them, no squeaky squeak from seat anymore.
 
franklin40

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they came today. i never really understood why one side seemed to rattle more than the other until tonight. one side still had the OEM pad and the other was missing. sweet little reproduction item!! i can’t wait to drive the washboard tomorrow morning now!!

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aviafx

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Hey y'all-

I've been working on the D-pillar vent gaskets. Mine are ok, but have some funky bends/warpage I don't want to reproduce. I tried soaking them in silicone and weighting them down for days in an effort to re-form them - didn't work as well as I had hoped.

So ... does anybody have GOOD gaskets? I'd love to borrow them for molding. You'd get a free set if repros if it works out.

Additionally, if I made repros of the pressure flaps inside the d-pillar tubes, would y'all be comfortable pulling the whole tube out to affix them? It requires removing the 4 screws for the vent, then the vent itself, and then wiggling the tube out. Fitting the tube back in is a bit finicky but only takes about 5 minutes. The flaps attach at the top of the tube and I'd either have the end user staple them in (as they were before) or with small nuts and bolts (if there's enough room). See photos.

View attachment 2821682View attachment 2821684
Totally cool pulling out the tubes to replace the flaps....1 banana job. :banana:
 
bcolvin

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UPDATE:
I made a web store for these seat bumpers and will have some other products following. If you're interested in a set, here's the link:
--->Cruiser Trash Parts<---
* * *

My rear seat makes all kind of noise because the latch is loose. I tried wrapping in tape and a cut up PCV hose, but both would fall off pretty quickly. The problem is that the post on the seat is much smaller than the opening in the latch..... Over the summer I found out that 60s came with small rubber bumpers that fit into the latch and held the seat post tight - I had never even seen them before. It took quite a bit of digging, but I was able to get 1 or 2 from Classic Cruisers, and sourced a couple more off junkyard 60s that popped up local to me. Some were in bad shape and others were mediocre. I would really like brand new ones, but I'm unable to find a part number for them - on diagrams they appear to be part of the entire latch mechanism, which is NLA.

Cue my molding & casting experience. I've done bronze sand casting and cast concrete into silicone rubber molds for work in the past. These little bumpers didn't look like they would cause any problems for a silicone mold process, so I did it last night. This morning I cast a test piece out of a hard resin as a proof of concept, and it worked great. Because the originals I used to make the mold are a little beat up, I'm going to work on the first clone a little bit to iron out the imperfections - maybe some putty to take out indentations and then spray it with a clear coat to make a next-generation piece. After that the task is finding the right material to cast the finished product - I'm looking at 2-part urethane rubber for that. The viscosity is good for a poured cast, it can stand up to abuse since it's urethane-based, and it comes in different grades of flexibility which will help the piece bend into position and absorb bumps in the road better. If that doesn't work, there's about million other products I can use.

Since I'm going to all this trouble to make myself a set of these little rubber bumpers I thought why not see if other folks would be interested. Consider this a feeler post. If this is something you might want, let me know below.

Photos below:
1: An original OEM bumper in place.
2-5: Some pictures of the molding process.
6: This is a first-generation hard-resin clone. (I didn't take any pictures of mixing up the resin and pouring the casting because the working time is 5 minutes - I needed to be quick)
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Hey CT those bumpers work awesome. Totally impressed. With your casting experience would it be possible to build mudflaps? It seems that everyone could use a set of those. Again great work
 
CruiserTrash

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Hey CT those bumpers work awesome. Totally impressed. With your casting experience would it be possible to build mudflaps? It seems that everyone could use a set of those. Again great work
Wow ... mudflaps. Probably injection molded, and the metal brackets are inset during the molding process. Likely made with something different than urethane that may require high heat.

Production cost would likely be pretty high, so I don't know how affordable I could make - if I could make them at all. Let me think on it though. Never say never, as they say.

Glad the seat latch bumpers are working out for you though! Still cranking them out for folks, with some new things coming soon-ish.
 
87CRUSR

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Wow ... mudflaps. Probably injection molded, and the metal brackets are inset during the molding process. Likely made with something different than urethane that may require high heat.

Production cost would likely be pretty high, so I don't know how affordable I could make - if I could make them at all. Let me think on it though. Never say never, as they say.

Glad the seat latch bumpers are working out for you though! Still cranking them out for folks, with some new things coming soon-ish.
Brackets do not need to be integrated...just saying....🤔
 
CruiserTrash

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06D7BB16 9394 4629 BAE2 A825F3376BE9
Here's the piece that makes manufacturing a little more difficult - there's a curves metal piece within the rubber compound. That's how the bracket piece attaches (via two rivets) and it provides a solid hole for the bolt to the inner fender of the truck. See photo below.

06D7BB16 9394 4629 BAE2 A825F3376BE9


Now, as Spook suggested, maybe there's a better way. You could make two metal pieces that sandwich the rubber and have bolts to hold the sandwich together. This would give the two anchoring points. It would also need follow the body contour - the body is inset into the mudflap on the OEM ones.

Quite a few things to puzzle out, but I'll think about it.
 
CruiserTrash

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@Spook50 One source frustration for me has been metal pieces set inside of rubber. See mudflaps or bumper end caps for example. The metal rusts and causes a couple issues: it blows out the rubber as it expands, causes rips and deterioration of the rubber, in some cases it fuses with the rubber making assembly/disassembly difficult or impossible (see end caps), and general make an otherwise decent part unusable.

That's why I think two pieces of metal external to the mudflap would make more sense - eliminates problems and increases serviceability. Serviceability, to me, is one of the defining features and a huge benefit of early Land Cruisers.
 
midknightc3

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i can’t wait to drive the washboard tomorrow morning now!!
Ok, these bumpers are friggin awesome; arrived in record time, installed before my wife got the beer open (and yes, she knows how to open a beer), and have silenced the maddening canary in the back seat…but dude, you got problems! You WANT to drive corduroy!?! Mate…
 
Spook50

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@Spook50 One source frustration for me has been metal pieces set inside of rubber. See mudflaps or bumper end caps for example. The metal rusts and causes a couple issues: it blows out the rubber as it expands, causes rips and deterioration of the rubber, in some cases it fuses with the rubber making assembly/disassembly difficult or impossible (see end caps), and general make an otherwise decent part unusable.

That's why I think two pieces of metal external to the mudflap would make more sense - eliminates problems and increases serviceability. Serviceability, to me, is one of the defining features and a huge benefit of early Land Cruisers.
The sandwich idea is even better than the single piece I had in mind. That could make for a very strong, secure hold. I can't imagine it would be difficult to develop a bracket that would match the contours on the US spec fenders and allow for a properly designed/shaped rigid rubber part to be secured in place.
 
franklin40

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There are a couple on eBay at the moment. You could just sand it and put chassis saver silver followed by their satin black. Probably last another 30 years.

Ok, these bumpers are friggin awesome; arrived in record time, installed before my wife got the beer open (and yes, she knows how to open a beer), and have silenced the maddening canary in the back seat…but dude, you got problems! You WANT to drive corduroy!?! Mate…
🤣 only to test them out. i’ve been settling down the rattles this past fall and this was the last annoying one!! i have 1/2 mile of gravel road from where i live to the pavement and it’s often washboard! i’ve driven in the ditch a few times because it was smoother. not a joke or a lie!! most of the time it’s well maintained but when it’s bad i really don’t look forward to the last 5 minutes of my drive home!! not so bad now though that my rattles are gone!!
 
Spook50

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The sandwich idea is even better than the single piece I had in mind. That could make for a very strong, secure hold. I can't imagine it would be difficult to develop a bracket that would match the contours on the US spec fenders and allow for a properly designed/shaped rigid rubber part to be secured in place.
OOO! Another possibility that the separate bracket would allow for: custom width mudflaps for those of us (myself included) who have a wider wheelbase.
 
87CRUSR

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@Spook50 One source frustration for me has been metal pieces set inside of rubber. See mudflaps or bumper end caps for example. The metal rusts and causes a couple issues: it blows out the rubber as it expands, causes rips and deterioration of the rubber, in some cases it fuses with the rubber making assembly/disassembly difficult or impossible (see end caps), and general make an otherwise decent part unusable.

That's why I think two pieces of metal external to the mudflap would make more sense - eliminates problems and increases serviceability. Serviceability, to me, is one of the defining features and a huge benefit of early Land Cruisers.
I bet the @TRAIL TAILOR labs could fab the needed bracket as a co-developer.
 
CruiserTrash

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I bet the @TRAIL TAILOR labs could fab the needed bracket as a co-developer.
I could probably whip some up in CAD in not very long. Would probably take a proto or two to dial in the contour, no big deal.

Speaking of which .... who needs a bracket for an accessory fuse block in the engine bay? Because I've sent my CAD drawings to a couple local fab shops and am hoping to have prototypes in a month or less.

I run some aux lights that have a relay and a fuse, my Koito harness that has two relays and a fuse, and I'm upsizing my alternator + wire and bypassing the fusible link with a larger fuse. All of this is dangling around behind my battery with butt connectors because I have no place to put a damn fuse block. No more. The bracket will be easy yo install, it will allow flexibility for different fuse blocks and electrical systems, and incorporates some cable management points.

Is there a need out there? Shoot, you could bolt anything down to it, doesn't have to be electrical stuff.
 
CruiserTrash

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yeah i’d be down for an six fuse box and 100% for mud flaps should they ever come to fruition!!
This would be a bracket only - choose your own fuse block to suit your needs and fasten it down. I'll be using the Littlefuse MIDI fuse holder as well as the modular GEP blocks.

CE Auto Electric has so much cool stuff for fuse blocks - check them out. Definitely a step or three above Blue Sea.
 
CruiserTrash

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304 stainless steel fuse block brackets are en route. I'll need to make sure they work in my vehicle first and then I'll put the 3 extra on my website for sale. These are for 60s only and mount along the passenger side edge of the engine bay, above the wheel well, behind the battery.

As designed, the horizontal platform is great for a typical fuse block and the vertical face is good for the few that mount sideways (like the GEP modular PDC I have). The small vertical face on the left is designed to aid in cable management - tie in your zip ties and clips to the thin slot. The slots on the main faces let the bracket adapt to different stuff, because of course the mounting holes on each fuse block or whatever will be different. You can use these for whatever else, too - all the paraphrenalia for dual battery systems, or an attachment point/platform for anything. I think clearance to the closed hood is a bit tight for an air compressor, but I may revise this for a V.2 that sits lower. I guess if the compressor is light enough it could mount to the vertical face.

The air cleaner on a 62 interferes, so the bracket won't work for 88-90 trucks. Sorry y'all, maybe I'll do something for you later. Copious engine bay photos would help with that if you really want one.

Additionally, if you have a Tuffy, Cruiser Crap, Smitty, or CCOT center console - aka the "bottomless pit" - would you be interested in movable internal dividers?

FJ60 Fuse Bracket V5 Final Render
 
CruiserTrash

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FYI I'll make a new thread for these once I know they're going to work.
 

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