Does this Pinion Flange look right to you? (1 Viewer)

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Feb 26, 2015
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Coweta, OK
I admit I don't know much about differentials, and I'm chasing down a Driveline vibration. Was hoping someone more knowledgeable could watch the and tell me if this is where my problem is, or if this appears normal.

symptoms are growling on deceleration, almost like a lawn mower.

After the lift, I replaced All 4 U joints, but the driving was always kind of squirrely . So, I recently put on some M-A-F caster correction brackets, and while it was down I went ahead and put on new spindles, and had all three bearings and races in the front diff replaced along with a new JF drive flange (was on sale from Witts End). The result is much better drivability, but I get a severe driveline whine from the front at any speed over 40 and a growling vibration similar to a riding lawn mower on deceleration over about 50.

With the front drive shaft pulled, the vehicle drives beautifully and quiet. I took it to the shop who did the differential bearings for me, they drove it, and told me it was the drive shaft. Definitely not a problem with the differential, and since I supplied my own Timken bearings, there was no warranty of any kind... he wanted to sell me a part-time kit to fix the problem though. LMFAO!

since I'm running ome J Springs, and the @sleeoffroad website indicates drive shaft issues a definite possibility, I went ahead and ordered up a DC from Tattons. The new shaft has the same issue, maybe marginal improvement.

What I am noticing, is that the differential pinion flange is moving quite a bit. I don't know if this is normal or not. Thanks.

 
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That play is not abnormal, it's the gap between the pinion and the crown wheel.

Move the flange up and down/side to side, it should not have play in those directions.
 
no play up down or side to side (with my hand) from either flange. I thought maybe it was in the front diff.


axles both looked good and spindles were packed good with grease so not sure what to do at this point.

Any ideas of where to look?
 
I happen to have my front shaft out at the moment and have the same amount of rotation each way. My gears were setup by the gear guru ZUK. So I would be confident that is normal movement from the ring & pinion backlash, spider gear backlash and what not. BUT mine isn't as easy to flop back and forth nor make a hollow rattling sound like yours. Mine sounds more of a solid clunk one way or the other.

I have setup a few diffs and my internet assessment is that the pinion spacer is not set to specs. With a multi-drilled flange, someone has either changed just the flange, seal, pinion bearings, or who knows. Any one of those would require the use of a new crush sleeve which someone may not have done or they may not have removed the diff to set it correctly.
 
I my internet assessment is that the pinion spacer is not set to specs. With a multi-drilled flange, someone has either changed just the flange, seal, pinion bearings, or who knows. Any one of those would require the use of a new crush sleeve which someone may not have done or they may not have removed the diff to set it correctly.

The multi drill flange came from Wits End / @NLXTACY... it was on sale. A new crush sleeve was purchased and installed with the new bearings and flange. I was thinking maybe it didn't get crushed enough and things were a little loose. I don't have the knowledge to take the differential apart. Or, rather the confidence and knowledge to put it back together correctly. Maybe I need to find another driveline shop.

The rattling noise you mentioned is very reminiscent of the vibration and noise I get on deceleration.
 
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So that work was done "on truck?" If so I bet the pre-load was not set correct, obviously low. The diff's gotta come out to be done right.

No.... No work was done to the third member while "on truck". The third member was pulled, the stock third member was rebuilt using the existing stock gears. Sorry if I wasn't clear in my original post. I even used an oem differential gasket, you know, to avoid a head gasket leak. ;)

However, I am still not confident that the preload was set correctly, that is why I took the video and was hoping it could tell us something.
 
yes. New pinion flange, new pinion cone bearing, new Crush Washer, provided him a set of spacers from Yukon gear, new carrier bearings and races. Everything new except the gears themselves. Had a pinion leak and different whining noise so I thought they rebuild would be a good idea. Boy was I wrong.
 
When you say new crush sleeve. Did you use a Toyota OEM sleeve or aftermarket? They are not created equal, especially if you are 'wheeling hard on 35 tires.

You may have simply compromised the sub par crush sleeve from the type of 'wheeling you do. It might not be the shops fault at all.

crush sleve came from yukon gear. not oem. but the issue appeared immediately, before any wheeling was done. I live in Oklahoma. Got to drive 10 hours to do any real wheeling.
 
.delete.
 
yeah. I'm tempted to send it to Cruiser Outfitters to have it reset, not heard of zuk but will check em out. but I want to make damn sure the problem is indeed in the diff before I spend so much money to ship it across the country and back.

Am I correct to assume that if the problem is with the axle shaft, that it would be present at highway speeds even with the front driveshaft pulled? I would just like to rule everything out before I pay to rebuild something for a second time. Hopefully I don't have to repurchase all the bearings. Even more hopefully my gears aren't effed-up
 
haha spindle bushings are new also. came preinstalled on the new spindles, thanks for your help.

Anyone in Oklahoma know of a good differential guy?
 
haha spindle bushings are new also. came preinstalled on the new spindles, thanks for your help.

Anyone in Oklahoma know of a good differential guy?
I have done my own diffs in the past, but for all the hassle and issues to deal with, When I have a problem on mine, I will ship them to Zuk for a rebuild.
 

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