About to change gasket and was just looking for tips on this little job. Other than cleaning the engine real good do y'all have any good tips. fzj80 1993 here. Anything I should do while I have the valve cover off. Thanks.
DOES AND DON"T ON VALVE COVER GASKET REPLACEMENT
- Thread starter Willopat
- Start date
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Are you doing the spark plug seals as well?
It's pretty easy to do it. You'll want to have a new throttle body gasket on hand to do it right. You might want to replace some vacuum lines under the throttle body while you're in there. Search for the 600mm vacuum line part number that ends up being less than $2. You might also take the time to replace the coolant bypass hoses that attach to the throttle body while you have it off. The distributor o-ring would be one to change at the same time. You don't need to have the valve cover off to do it but it's nice to see that you're not putting it back in a tooth off. It's also a perfect time to change the spark plug wires since they have to come off.
Oh, and be real gentle with your intake tube or you'll be on the phone to Beno for a new one. Ask me how I know....
As an aside: it's real easy to go overboard "while you're in there" and spend insane amounts of money when in reality all you really wanted to do was change a leaky gasket.
Oh, and be real gentle with your intake tube or you'll be on the phone to Beno for a new one. Ask me how I know....
As an aside: it's real easy to go overboard "while you're in there" and spend insane amounts of money when in reality all you really wanted to do was change a leaky gasket.
clean out the TB, replace all of the spark plug tubes, possibly plugs and wires at the same time. new TB gasket, vac hoses,
As to the last post, "new TB gasket?" What is that, sorry? Timing belt gasket? Sorry for the question if the answer is painfully obvious. I'm going to do my valve cover gasket soon, too, so I'd like to know what other things I should be getting at while in there.
Thanks.
Russell
Thanks.
Russell
Throttle Body. You'll detach it (easiest by removing the 4 bolts-2 top, 2 bottom) and move it away to avoid having to deconstruct the whole %$#@ top end....
There's an obvious gasket there when it detaches, and it's easy to change.
Be sure to hook the two little hoses on the EGR Modulator back up as well. Turns out if you leave those off, you'll start throwing a P0401 code and, when you post up a WTHk thread on mud, will look like a moron for not having checked that first.... No idea how I know that.
There's an obvious gasket there when it detaches, and it's easy to change.
Be sure to hook the two little hoses on the EGR Modulator back up as well. Turns out if you leave those off, you'll start throwing a P0401 code and, when you post up a WTHk thread on mud, will look like a moron for not having checked that first.... No idea how I know that.
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Throttle body gasket sir.
always a good idea to replace them any time you remove the throttle body.
always a good idea to replace them any time you remove the throttle body.
There's a good thread on the subject with pics that I failed to find on a quick search for you.
One tip is to remove the air box completely. Will give you the needed room to reach around and remove the VC bolts around the firewall....
One tip is to remove the air box completely. Will give you the needed room to reach around and remove the VC bolts around the firewall....
These guys have hit it right on:
Wrapping wiring harness by EGR for sure.
Be careful with intake.
Throttle Body Gasket for sure.
Get a set of OEM plugs they are like $2.50 each, and set of NGK or Denso wires on RockAuto.com
Pick up a seal puller if you don't have one to make removing the spark plug seals easier (Mine is Lisle)
Have a 1/4 Flex head socket extension handy for removal of back valve cover bolts, get a few cans of brake cleaner to clean valve cover and such...
Take your time and don't bust stuff, rubber on these trucks is old.
Get a new OEM PCV Valve and Grommet (both cheap) and new hoses for PCV and Power Steering (5/8 Gates is best) and hose clamps to fit hoses.
Are your belts in good shape? Hoses?
Remove the distributor and check rotor and cap (both cheap aftermarket), 2 min job...
I know I went well overboard, but the stuff we are talking about is about $50, and how far does that get you in the auto world?
What does a tow cost? What is your time worth while your waiting on Tow truck and another ride, 6 miles back in the woods....
Wrapping wiring harness by EGR for sure.
Be careful with intake.
Throttle Body Gasket for sure.
Get a set of OEM plugs they are like $2.50 each, and set of NGK or Denso wires on RockAuto.com
Pick up a seal puller if you don't have one to make removing the spark plug seals easier (Mine is Lisle)
Have a 1/4 Flex head socket extension handy for removal of back valve cover bolts, get a few cans of brake cleaner to clean valve cover and such...
Take your time and don't bust stuff, rubber on these trucks is old.
Get a new OEM PCV Valve and Grommet (both cheap) and new hoses for PCV and Power Steering (5/8 Gates is best) and hose clamps to fit hoses.
Are your belts in good shape? Hoses?
Remove the distributor and check rotor and cap (both cheap aftermarket), 2 min job...
I know I went well overboard, but the stuff we are talking about is about $50, and how far does that get you in the auto world?
What does a tow cost? What is your time worth while your waiting on Tow truck and another ride, 6 miles back in the woods....
Chk the heater valve on firewall to make sure it's not leaking also.
- Thread starter
- #12
Great info guys I will be replacing gasket and spark plug seals and throttle body gasket. Oh and dist o ring. This is a great place for info I will let y'all know how it goes and what I find in there. Thanks guys!
Don't forget to schedule time to strip, clean and paint your valve cover while you're in there. 
Hylomar, or permatex hi-tack gasket sealer, to stick the new gasket in the head before you put the cover back on. The gasket has a tendency to flop out of the slot, particularly in the back where you can't see it.
- Thread starter
- #15
what about gasket sealer on the throttle body gasket.
The throttle body gasket is metal and unless it has been off and on many times doesn't have to be replaced.
Here is a list I put together with part #'s and prices for my 1fz-fe's valve cover gasket replacement.
Gasket, Cylinder Head Cover $17.00
11213-66020
Gasket, Throttle Body $8.12
22271-66010
6 - Gasket, Spark Plug Tube $30.00
11193-15010
FIPG RED 103 Adhesive $17.00
00295-00103
Spark Plug Wires $144.00
90919-21557
Distributor O-Ring $2.00
90099-14118
PCV Valve $6.00
12204-35040
PCV Grommet $5.00
90480-18001
Heater Valve $87.00
87240-60170
Heater Hose inlet $20.85
87245-60480
Heater Water, Outlet A $12.00
87245-60350
Heater Water, Outlet B $26.00
87245-60340
3 - 600mm Vacuum Hose $2.00
90999-92003
Coolant bypass Hoses
#1 bypass hose 16261-66040 $12.00
#2 bypass hose 16264-66021 $7.00
#3 bypass hose 16267-66020 $10.00
#4 bypass hose 99555-10200 $5.00
Total = $412
Gasket, Cylinder Head Cover $17.00
11213-66020
Gasket, Throttle Body $8.12
22271-66010
6 - Gasket, Spark Plug Tube $30.00
11193-15010
FIPG RED 103 Adhesive $17.00
00295-00103
Spark Plug Wires $144.00
90919-21557
Distributor O-Ring $2.00
90099-14118
PCV Valve $6.00
12204-35040
PCV Grommet $5.00
90480-18001
Heater Valve $87.00
87240-60170
Heater Hose inlet $20.85
87245-60480
Heater Water, Outlet A $12.00
87245-60350
Heater Water, Outlet B $26.00
87245-60340
3 - 600mm Vacuum Hose $2.00
90999-92003
Coolant bypass Hoses
#1 bypass hose 16261-66040 $12.00
#2 bypass hose 16264-66021 $7.00
#3 bypass hose 16267-66020 $10.00
#4 bypass hose 99555-10200 $5.00
Total = $412
Its a good time to do the small by-pass hoses and heater hoses as well. And I think I would spend the extra time pulling the fuel injectors and having them rebuilt rather that cleaning and painting the valve cover. Mostly because that is what I'm doing now.
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