Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA.

[2fpower]

Started tacking on the flares…. Decided to fix the rust repair section once it was in place.

 

[2fpower]

With a bunch of CAD work got the second side tacked in.

 

[2fpower]

Got everything done on the top side….

So I had a few friends over and we flipped it over so I can start welding and cleaning up the bottom.

 

[2fpower]

Here we go. Time to work on adapting the frame. The frame sits about 4" below the bed and about 6" too long... , so my goal here is to raise the frame up to increase my departure angle and raise the bumper up to just below the truck bed tailgate. Have the bumper an inch below the tailgate.
First up is the good news, the 79 series bed allows for a second mounting hole, so I can move the bed mount to the inside of the frame, instead of dead center on top of it. The left hole is stock, the right is the second one that will be about 3/4 inside the frame.

Recall the bed is upside down now, so turn your monitor over. This would be my goal for the frame on the bed mounting point.

So here is current setup...

This is what I am thinking.. cut off the rear section, flip it upside down. I did something similar on Yoda. Builds - Father, Son, and the Unholy UTE - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/father-son-and-the-unholy-ute.914895/page-15 starts at post 289

 

[Vossie]

This is Going to look factory fresh

 

[2fpower]

Finally getting around to the framework. Last time I did it spent so much time trying to make it level in parallel and square…. Decided to make some temporary structures to make it a lot easier…. Just made some blocks to know how much higher I wanted it in the back.

 

[2fpower]

More pics

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

I'm not even sure what you're doing but it looks

 

[2fpower]

Bottom of the bed is done, ready for primer and bedliner. Decided to go ahead and takeoff all of the factory soft under liner in the wheel wells. Found that a wire brush did a great job.

 

[2fpower]

Scuffed for a long time, cleaned and primed..

 

[bluehawk]

Factory Fresh

 

[2fpower]

Raptor on bottom. I have learned to do it in the shade and not full sun…. Which meant that I had to keep pushing it around the driveway. I will let it dry for a week then flip it over…. In the meantime I should be able to do the bodywork on the sides.

 

[2fpower]

Bodywork progress

 

[2fpower]

Time for an ask the audience question....

Just found a used set of 37" tires, so want to start tracking down the 17" rims that will work with this 80 series setup.

if you recall, @Tank5 had these rims on it and they look great. I was thinking they were Hutchison Rock Monsters...

So wanted to see what other options might look good on a 45 series?

I should note that I assume that i will have to run spacers as there is not many options for an 80... and I need to match stock offset to fit in wheel wells.

 

[G-Cat]

It’s tough to find non-OEM wheels that look good on a 40/45/4X variant. Those Hutchinsons do look good…I like the look of the 17” FJ Cruiser Steelies on the old iron.

Not 100% whether Profit’s used the FJC 17” or the Tacoma/4Runner 16”, but they look the same.

 

[Tank5]

The Hutchinsons look great in my opinion and have a deep backspacing. I was hoping to run them without spacers and that is how they are in the picture you posted. I did run them on my 80 series with Toyo 37s, and didn't have any significant rubbing issues that I recall. The 45 body is obviously different but hopefully you could run them without spacers. The Hutchinsons are really heavy but after trying to dismount tires from them I feel confident I won't loose a bead unless I destroy the rim.

Those Walker Evan beadlocks look good too, on the 45 you posted and Project X - both 45 builds.

I think the 17" fj steel rims could look good too. I have plan to eventually build a set to mount acorn hub caps on. I am still waiting to see how they turn out before I decide how I feel about them.

I have not really looked around for examples but I think some of the method rims might look good on a 45. They have a couple new ideas with different bead retention options available now that are not as obvious the bolt on ring style.

 

[peesalot]

Am I seeing things or does 1 flare have squared corners and the driver side has rounded ?

 

[Broski]

I really the Hutchinson as well and there one of the only DOT approved beadlock out there if that matters to you. But as Tank5 said there really heavy.
I allso like the Walker Evens Racing beadlocks and what I running on my 80. There all most half the cost of the Hutchinsons and much lighter.
They only come in a 3 3/4" back spacing but what I really like is there only a true 8 1/2" wide. most other bead lock are called 9" wide but are closer to 10" wide measured.
The Walkers were the closest to the stock width and back space to a stock 80 wheell I could find in a beadlock.
JMHO The 3 3/4" back spacing is perfect for a stock 80 axle and frame set up with a 12.50 wide tire.

 

[2fpower]

What do you all think about the SCS Ray 10 on this project?

The come in a 17x9 -38 which i think is similar to stock wheel that I have been using for mockups.

deep dish design...

 

[Ragnaroek]

In my opinion, anything else than steel rims/steel rim lookalikes make a 40/45 look like a child's toy. Especially if you put big tires on them.

The flares turned out great!