Distributors 2F (3 Viewers)

[Dizzy]

What is the interchangeability of distributors between different production years of 2F? I'm considering motor swaps, so will a '75 carb and distributor be a proper desmog (particularly in regards to vacuum and spark timing) for all years of 2F, beyond 40-Series Cruisers?

 

[Downey]

Not up to speed on pre 1970's dizzy. 1969-76 were vacuum retard smog dizzy. 1977 only was small body vacuum advance (ideal), 1978-newer are larger body electronic dizzy. Any of these fit the 2F motor, but some use different clamps.

 

[Morse_FJ40]

I think 81-up are the large cap fully electronic with flange that fits flush ontop the block, also need the dented side cover to install


77-80 are small body fully electronic with straight shafts and clamp.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Here’s some additional info compiled and graciously hosted by Coolerman: Dizzy FAQ

@Dizzy if you don’t get people chiming in with the answer’s you are looking for. Search the 40 forum using “posted by member: FJ40Jim” he has written lots of informative dissy and carb posts. Keywords to try “75-76”, “dissy”. Jim has lots of good info. Here’s examples of info that might apply to your situation/decision’s.

Yes, 1975-later carbs have ported vac that will work with vac advance dissy. The port was originally used to signal the computer and EGR valve, but when desmogged it can be connected direct to a vac advancer.

Mid '76 and later are vac advance.

Once I figgered out that the 1977 can could be used to change all the 75-76 trucks to vac advance, we bought every one in the country and then Toyota discontinued the number.

Bummer.

It is a 75-mid 76 USA vac retard dissy. There should be no vac hose connected to it. Just run it as a mechanical advance only.

Mark A has the 2 parts needed to make the pertronix fit. Do not try to make the early pertronix fit this later dissy. It just becomes a mess, then when the dissy ends up here someday I will curse you.

 

[FJ40Jim]

All F, 2F, 3F dissys are 100% interchangeable. The hole in the block is always the same diameter, cam gear is always the same size...
Pick the kind you like: Vac advance/retard, points/electronic, separate holddown clamp/holddown ear...

 

[Morse_FJ40]

I will admit here...back in my youth. . 10 years ago. That I did kill my 2 week old rebuilt motor ( rebuilt motor in truck/ honed cyclinders/ new rings/ reground cam/ rebuilt head).
After getting it all back together I had a knock at idle, and water in the top of the valve cover... like snot!! The knock would go away once you raised The rpm, it ended up being The fuel pump causing The knock. The head had been rebuilt a machine shop over in tacoma.. one I had never dealt with. Figured out that they didn't install a freeze plug in the head correctly. I replaced said freeze plug, and decided to check the side cover just to make sure there wasn't a crack in the block visible. Well when I put the stock 78 dizzy vac/advance med cap back in... I only got it into the cam gear, and not the oil pump. That model dizzy had the clamp, I ended up bending the clamp when tightening the bolt into the block. Fired it back up.. took the 40 for a spin, and as I was returning to my house the truck died in the driveway. I seized the #1 rod bearing to the crank!!! Upon disassembly we discovered what happened.

I sent a different 78 block off to Cope Bros, and had it tanked and bored. I then went and removed a large cap dizzy out of junk late model 2f I had, and had Jim C clean and recurve it to match my desmogged Jim C carb. The large cap dizzy have a ear or flange that sits flat on the block surface. No room for error!! I hate telling that story.. but I hope it saves a few F/2F engines from the dreaded no oil fate!

 

[Dizzy]

Morse, I did the exact same thing on the original F that was in the truck that I am currently using for my avatar. I was checking timing and wasn't paying attention to the clamp on the distributor. A Mud member from Los Alamos gave me an F that was harvested from a FJ55 for free and even trailered it to the shop where I had them do the install.

So, mechanically, all the distributors can fit the cam gears, but in regard to the amount of vacuum, it seems like we are working with sets of components that go together, some carbs are set-up for advance, others retard? And, because EGR burns slower, carbs will be set-up to advance spark timing more for this condition? And when vacuum is too great, a Vacuum Control Valve is often employed? My experience is with an F, and I don't know the systems of the 2F that well.

 

[emac]

I almost wasted my fresh build by not having the dizzy seated all the way. My rig came with a Delco Remy dizzy. It had two stock clamps welded together. When I transferred the clamp to the new electronic dizzy it did not let the dizzy seat all the way, so I wasnt getting any oil. Luckily my engine builder was there and noticed no oil right away and we shut it down. Thank goodness for assembly lube.

I posted pics and right away MUD members pointed out the issue like it was an upside down bezel! So, if you are in doubt about what will work dont hesitate to ask! My vote is for a trollhole dizzy with ONE stock clamp!

 

[Morse_FJ40]

Here is pic showing the flat shoulder on the large cap dizzy.

 

[65swb45]

FWIW, I wouldn’t pick a ‘75 carb for my first choice either. If you’re running a pre-1981 engine, a non-US 2F carb would be the best plug n play option...unless you have a pre-74 body.

If your setup allows for cable linkage, a ported 70-73 carb with a mechanical secondary would be a better choice yet.

I have all options available if you want to discuss by telephone.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Disagree.
The US spec 75-76 carbs are the best raw material for a 2F build. Biggest flow area, and 75 has the added plus of AAP, a load sensitive enrichment system.

 

[Dizzy]

I noticed that a popular vendor was lacking availability of high altitude jets. I'm going to be tuning for 7,000'.

I have a 32/36 DGEV. Probably a 38 Weber is best?

It looks like either a 75 2F or a 73 F is the current candidate?

 

[John McVicker]

Disagree.
The US spec 75-76 carbs are the best raw material for a 2F build. Biggest flow area, and 75 has the added plus of AAP, a load sensitive enrichment system.

So, would I be better off replacing my stock 2f dizzy on my DD '86 60 with my sitting on the shelf 2-'75 dizzy that came out of my purchased new 2-'75 40 that only had 100k when I pulled it for a big dizzy. Or should I just stick with the stock dizzy that seems to be operating very well?

I'm currently having that '86 2f being rebuilt and I still have access to that '75 dizzy. If it's a good idea, now is the time for me to do it.

 

[65swb45]

So, would I be better off replacing my stock 2f dizzy on my DD '86 60 with my sitting on the shelf 2-'75 dizzy that came out of my purchased new 2-'75 40 that only had 100k when I pulled it for a big dizzy. Or should I just stick with the stock dizzy that seems to be operating very well?

I'm currently having that '86 2f being rebuilt and I still have access to that '75 dizzy. If it's a good idea, now is the time for me to do it.

Unless it came from Canada, it’s going to be a vacuum retard dizzy.

 

[John McVicker]

Unless it came from Canada, it’s going to be a vacuum retard dizzy.

Correct you are! As I remember it was a vacuum retard.

 

[efjayfourty]

Hi Everybody,

I couldn't find any proper answer to the following question. There were a couple of clues in several threads, ponting in that direction, but too generic.

My problem is, I just can't get my 78 FJ40 started with the new 3F Dissy (No: 19100-61180)
It's been installed with everything that the old, original, small dissy needs. Nothing more nothing less...
the truck is all original EUR spec. I just changed the sidecover of the engine with one that has the bulge for the larger cap.
When I turn the key, it's just cranking, like there is no fuel for example. But it's no spark.
I tried the Dissy in many different positions - same reactions.
Maybe I need the resistor for the coil, which mine doesn't have... Or is it anything about the Dissy itself?
Are there some other issues with this convertion or does it usually fit plug 'n' play ??

Hope, someone knows
Thanks and best regards, Felix

 

[65swb45]

Plug n play. 12v to coil + with key on. New wire from dizzy side terminal to coil -.

Had a problem many many years ago that turned out to be a bad coil- wire. We’d been testing for two days assuming it couldn’t be anything that simple.

 

[efjayfourty]

hmm, ok I'll try again

 

[thebigredrocker]

If you run out of ideas, here are a few posts from FJ40Jim on dissy testing: Search results for query: dissy test