Distributor identification, running issue (1 Viewer)

[FJa40]

Hi everyone,

Recently purchased my 78 Fj40 2f.
Im currently having issues with drivability, as soon as any load is applied to the truck, its starts popping and backfiring through the exhaust.
My initial thoughts were a ignition timing issue. Here's what I've done so far,
Checked plugs.
Checked compression (135psi across all 6)
Vaccume gauge reading 18psi and steady.
Carried out lean drop tube on carb which was replaced before I brought it, looks to be a copy carb.
Checked distributor cap, arm and leads.
Found rotor arm a poor fit. Arm has slight side to side movement.
Also play in dizzy shaft but unsure if that's the norm on these?
Checked vac advance operation with mity vac and moved ok.
Cleaned points.
Checked timing, found timing Mark to not be steady and jumping around slightly.
Re gaped points to spec but runs worse.

I'm thinking of getting rid of or upgrading current dizzy.

Could anyone tell me what type it is as believe its not original.
And perhaps give me any suggestions on which route to go down. Pertronix perhaps? I'm based in the UK.

Thanks in advance

 

[Pighead]

That looks to be a vacuum advance dizzy, with an octane adjuster knob.
There will be some rotational play in the rotor. But not side to side (wobbly). That may have bushings, not bearings, holding the shaft.
A nice new, or rebuilt , Toyota vacuum advance with a Pertronix would be a good upgrade and would drop right in

 

[FJa40]

Thanks for the reply,
The adjuster seems to adjust the timing when I'm strobing it, unless I'm imagining it.
Which Toyota dizzy would you suggest? Are there any easy off the shelf new options available?
Thanks again

 

[Pighead]

Thanks for the reply,
The adjuster seems to adjust the timing when I'm strobing it, unless I'm imagining it.
Which Toyota dizzy would you suggest? Are there any easy off the shelf new options available?
Thanks again

Yes, the octane adjuster simply adjusts timing to a very small degree, like 1/10 * per rotation of the dial.
My experience with the Toyota '69 and earlier/non-USA vacuum advance dizzy was nothing but good. With a Pertronix in it, it is second only to the 60 series big cap dizzy.
Last i heard, you can still get them through your dealer.

 

[FJa40]

Awsome, sounds good. So if I order a pre 69, non us dizzy (hopefully available from Toyota) and add a pertronix to that, which pertronix kit is compatible?
Thanks

 

[Pighead]

Welcome to 'Mud.
Job #First:
Find the FAQs, find dizzy ID, binge read.

 

[pjohnson]

You might want to check with the resident dizzy guy @4Cruisers

 

[FJa40]

Thanks for advise so far people, been searching and reading for days now... Seems be few different routes to go. All of which are not available quickly in the UK. Pertronix, dui, original new..... Arrrh
Just want the truck reliable and running nicely

 

[Pighead]

Just want the truck reliable and running nicely

I bet you could clean up what you have and get that

 

[73FJ40]

@FJa40

Lots of folks here favor 'scope creep' to achieve perfection. It seems to me you should start with the basic tune-up.

First, get the Toyota part no. off the side of the dist., below the cast part of the housing that the "octane selector" knob projects from.

It should be 19100-XXXXX, where the XXXXX could be 61080. You'll need that number to get the correct points and condenser. It's NOT the Denso number.

You should start replacing the points and condenser. It looks like your current condenser has been there forever, bolted to the outside of the housing, below the vacuum advance diaphragm. Looks to be a hacked wire, transitioning from blue to black under a piece of electrical tape.

I would also clean up all the wire terminal connections.

A commonly available distributor (Ebay in the UK, new from UAE) is the 19100-61080. It's a points/condenser dist. like what you have, but a drop in replacement for your 2F engine.

Pertronix is a solid state alternative to points. A conversion kit costs about US$150, so that type of investment is driven in my mind by annual mileage, since you clearly have the mechanical aptitude.

 

[4Cruisers]

As @73FJ40 said, it's probably a 19100-61080. There should be rotational play at the top of the distributor shaft - twist the rotor clockwise and it should snap back due to the action of the mechanical advance springs. The breaker plate on your distributor is different than in the earlier US market F engine distributors, so it uses the same points as the early 2F US market distributors. The rotor and cap are the same as the early US market F engine distributors. Some of the early F engine distributors had internal condensers and some had external condensers.

And check this out:

Dizzy FAQ

 

[65swb45]

That distributor has been monkeyed with. The set screw is definitely not factory. They obviously used a nut to ‘set’ it since it is way longer than stock. But they probably didn’t notice that bottoming out the screw stops the vac advancer from moving.
And that wire hidden under the rotor does not look stock either. All that said, along with the oxidation and bouncing timing lead up to a recommendation to move on to a new 61080 like the others have said.

 

[FJa40]

This is all great stuff chaps, thanks so much for all the help and info.
I will check which part number I have today. Its definitely been messed with and has some questionable repairs, which leads me to just start with a new drop in unit for piece of mind. Hopefully still available in the UK, fingers crossed.
I did clean the points and reset gap but truck didn't seem to like that at all. I would have just chucked some new points in but wasn't sure which ones to order.
Also, the rotor arm is damaged and a very poor fit. I'm able to twist it, without shaft moving a good 20degrees or so. I'll pull the whole thing today and report back later.
Other than this issue.... Absolutely loving the truck, after being a Toyota guy all my life, this has gone to the top of the list!!

 

[FJa40]

Update..
Just checked part number.
19100-60071. This is not one I've read or heard about yet?
Also, there's no snap back or twist from a mechanical advance... Hmmm, plot thickens

 

[65swb45]

60071 is 100%interchangeable with 61080. I have a couple of good used 60071 dizzies on the shelf here…somewhere!

 

[FJa40]

Wish I was closer to u guys, plenty of options across the pond! Could really do with sorting the issue so I can use the truck at the wkend... Contemplating dropping a new genuine 19100-61080
At a cost of £500 mind

 

[EWheeler]

Wish I was closer to u guys, plenty of options across the pond! Could really do with sorting the issue so I can use the truck at the wkend... Contemplating dropping a new genuine 19100-61080
At a cost of £500 mind

Lots of people in the states use these two sources for ordering parts, i believe they are based in the middle east. Maybe a cheaper option for you if you can wait.

DISTRIBUTOR 1910061080 | Toyota Parts | PartSouq

Quality parts for Toyota auto with fast delivery here! For a fast search using the part number 1910061080 - DISTRIBUTOR

partsouq.com

Toyota 19100-61080 (1910061080) MODULE, IGNITION

Toyota 19100-61080 (1910061080) MODULE, IGNITION. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

www.amayama.com

 

[FJa40]

Thanks for that, I know of people over here that have used amayama without issues. But by the time tax and delivery is added on, not a huge amount cheaper. Plus could do with rectifying sooner really.
Just weighing up if it's the best way forward. Be nice to start with a new unit with warranty, it's not even easy sourcing caps, arms, points condenser etc over here from what I've found so far. And at least it comes complete and with warranty
Apreciate your advise

 

[FJa40]

Hey chaps,
Just an update....
I bit the bullet and fitted a new genuine 19100-61080 distributor. All set correctly as per tsm.
Still have a running fault but glad I've got a whole new unit for peace of mind as last unit had a number of questionable repairs.
Aim to to upgrade to pertronix eventually.

I'm going to renew the remaining ignition parts. I've ordered new genuine leads and plugs.
Now.... The coil is aftermarket, with no external resistor. Unsure of brand etc.
As mine is a 78 Indonesia import... Aus model, am I correct in saying it should have the external resistor?
I've read through some threads and seen mixed messages as to its importance.
But if its needed and not fitted, am right in saying it will reduce the coil life?
Tia

 

[65swb45]

Hey chaps,
Just an update....
I bit the bullet and fitted a new genuine 19100-61080 distributor. All set correctly as per tsm.
Still have a running fault but glad I've got a whole new unit for peace of mind as last unit had a number of questionable repairs.
Aim to to upgrade to pertronix eventually.

I'm going to renew the remaining ignition parts. I've ordered new genuine leads and plugs.
Now.... The coil is aftermarket, with no external resistor. Unsure of brand etc.
As mine is a 78 Indonesia import... Aus model, am I correct in saying it should have the external resistor?
I've read through some threads and seen mixed messages as to its importance.
But if its needed and not fitted, am right in saying it will reduce the coil life?
Tia

No. It will reduce the life of the points. But in a brand new dizzy, you should still be good for quite a while. It’s the used dizzies with wobbling shafts that magnify the effect on the points of the extra voltage without the ballast.