Distributor help - Mallory died, swap to what?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

nateclowar

nateclowar

Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
9
Location
honolulu, hi
Website
www.clowar.com
My 1978 FJ40 died while driving about 1/2 mile, got it started and back home but never started again after that. I had some starting issues before this, and found more than one wire in the ignition system that was barely holding on by threads. Fixed that, but still no start. PO had done so many splices, wire color changes with just short 2" pieces of wire it was kind of crazy once I started tracing things back. I have a Mallory Distributor, MSD 6200 and a MSD Tach Adapter. Tried removing the tach inputs, cleaned up the wiring, and still nothing. I can't get any spark. From what I've read that bad connection in the wiring over time may have killed my distributor? This isn't something I'm great at troubleshooting, but I think I've narrowed it down to that.

I can't find a replacement for it online. If anyone knows where I can find one, I'd appreciate it.

Alternately, I read a bunch of threads here and looks like a lot of people go back to stock, but I'd like to avoid points. Maybe add pertronix? But even stock units are $400+, and at that price I guess DUI from PerformanceDistributors is an option at $439, (plus 8weeks to ship.) Also wonder what all I have to replace with either of these?

Any advice would be appreciated or links to other threads. I read what I could find when searching but probably missed a bunch. I'd like to get it back running the easiest way possible.

Thanks!
-n

20251231_142929.webp
 
nateclowar said:
My 1978 FJ40 died while driving about 1/2 mile, got it started and back home but never started again after that. I had some starting issues before this, and found more than one wire in the ignition system that was barely holding on by threads. Fixed that, but still no start. PO had done so many splices, wire color changes with just short 2" pieces of wire it was kind of crazy once I started tracing things back. I have a Mallory Distributor, MSD 6200 and a MSD Tach Adapter. Tried removing the tach inputs, cleaned up the wiring, and still nothing. I can't get any spark. From what I've read that bad connection in the wiring over time may have killed my distributor? This isn't something I'm great at troubleshooting, but I think I've narrowed it down to that.

I can't find a replacement for it online. If anyone knows where I can find one, I'd appreciate it.

Alternately, I read a bunch of threads here and looks like a lot of people go back to stock, but I'd like to avoid points. Maybe add pertronix? But even stock units are $400+, and at that price I guess DUI from PerformanceDistributors is an option at $439, (plus 8weeks to ship.) Also wonder what all I have to replace with either of these?

Any advice would be appreciated or links to other threads. I read what I could find when searching but probably missed a bunch. I'd like to get it back running the easiest way possible.

Thanks!
-n

View attachment 4062951
Click to expand...
I'm not familiar with your aftermarket electronic distributor, but before giving up on it, you might do some basic troubleshooting of your ignition circuit first.

Making sure you have 12v going to your ignition circuit from your ignition switch would be a good place to begin. If you have a coil, check voltage at coil+ while cranking.

Report back after you've check that voltage and indicate what the rest of your ignition system looks like (oem coil, ballast resistor, igniter?).

If it's 78 oem, that was kind of early days for FJ40 electronic ignition. My 79 oem ignition system had issues, but turned out to be a good learning experience.

The FSM (available via download) shows how to test each of the components in your ignition system to help narrow things down a bit before swapping things out. A little tedious, but very helpful.
 
Last edited:
DUI dizzy. Davis Unified Ignition. Have a 55 that had one in it when I bought it. It grenaded about 6 months ago. Davis hooked me up with replacement parts in under a week. Not pointing out that it grenaded but that replacement parts are easy to come by. Great customer service. Dizzy works great. Drop it in and go.
 
CruiserInProgress said:
I'm not familiar with your aftermarket electronic distributor, but before giving up on it, you might do some basic troubleshooting of your ignition circuit first.

Making sure you have 12v going to your ignition circuit from your ignition switch would be a good place to begin. If you have a coil, check voltage at coil+ while cranking.

Report back after you've check that voltage and indicate what the rest of your ignition system looks like (oem coil, ballast resistor, igniter?).

If it's 78 oem, that was kind of early days for FJ40 electronic ignition. My 79 oem ignition system had issues, but turned out to be a good learning experience.

The FSM (available via download) shows how to test each of the components in your ignition system to help narrow things down a bit before swapping things out. A little tedious, but very helpful.
Click to expand...

CruiserInProgress:
Thanks for the help! I'd tried some of these before, but I ran again since then I had completely cleaned the grounds I couldnt move and moved some directly to battery, cleaned more terminals, and more wiring cleanup. I have 12V with key ON, I also show .2V at coil positive when cranking, from what I understand that is what I should see with MSD.

Ballast resistor seems to be same voltage either side, I didn't test while cranking. I believe its approx 1.5ohms across the two ends.

I don't believe there is an igniter? Attaching a pic of the coil.


Brian:
Thanks for the perspective, OEM + pertronix was my first thought, but is much more $$ than some of the newer setups and much harder to find it seems.

Jestlurnin:
Thanks for the info, you mentioned 'Davis' hooked you up with the replacement parts. I've only found resellers, and I'm not sure what the direct site is for Davis? Also, only seems to be the performance distributors website that has one specific to the FJ40.

20260107_160828.webp
 
My 72 came to me in 82 with a Delco dizzy and a rochester carb. I did some work on the dizzy in the early 2000's. Last summer I bought the Amron chineesium delco. Moved my real delco drive gear (which was actually a toyota gear) to the china unit. My old cap, points, condenser all fit in china unit. $120 delivered. I like straight mechanical advance. I don't mind points. I'm sure you could drop in a 235 chevy pertronix unit.
 
You can test the MSD box and your coil without the distributor. Lots of posts and youtube videos out there.

It needs 12 volt power, a good ground, the coil hooked to it with a plug wire to look for the spark to the head or block and a trigger signal. I think you either momentarily ground the white wire (used for points) or touch the green and purple wires (mag pickup) together momentarily to signal the box to generate a spark from the coil. Both ways should work if the box and coil is good. Be careful not to get shocked. It's BAD. Ask me how I know.

I didn't think you needed a tach adapter with these? Maybe I'm thinking of my 6A boxes. I only needed tach adapters for the fuel injected 22RE "IF" I'm remembering correctly. I'd test the box without it just to make sure it's not the problem somehow.

The dizzy is just the signal for the box to generate the spark. and control timing advance of course.

If you don't get spark, it's either the MSD or the coil (or both) that's bad. You can test the coil with a meter or try another appropriate spec'd coil if you have one.

If you do get spark, the dizzy pickup or the wiring from it to the box is the problem. You might be able to get the correct Mallory module/pickup on eBay or Summit or others if you have a number for the dizzy or the module itself.

Good luck with it. I hope it's a simple fix.
Scott in AZ.
 
As mentioned earlier, I'm not familiar with the Mallory electronic ignition distributor, but after looking at one of their wiring diagrams, it looks like the "ignitor" function may be part of the internal distributor assembly?

Either way, it would seem you're driving it with an external coil and ballast resistor.

So, it would also seem you'd need more than 0.2v at your coil+ when cranking. I would think that you should see battery voltage (>12v) with the ignition switch on, then somewhere between 7v and 12v while cranking. If you're getting near 0v at coil +, I'd do a bit more probing.
 
Aztoyman - Thanks so much!! I was not using the right search terms to find those Mallory internals, the 609 matches what I have. I am guessing I can swap just that part if I have fried mine, and that would cover most everything electronic in the distributor?

I also didn't even consider testing without the distributor, and looks like with only MSD and coil I get no spark. I'm going to try and test just the coil over the weekend, I just ran out of time last night. How bad is the shock from the coil? Like 220V? Done that and its not fun either, but thanks for the heads up I was way more careful.

I don't believe the tach adapter was needed either, there is an output on the MSD, but the PO had it already installed. Once I checked the wiring diagram what I had was not at all close, but it had worked for the years I've had it.


jestlurnin - thanks! I'll dig around in the site a bit more if I go that route.
CruiserInProgress - I'm going to check these numbers again and check just the coil. Thanks!
Charliemeyer007 - I saw some old threads on mixing/matching non-toyota parts with the toyota gears, but the links that detailed that process were too old/dead.
 
nateclowar said:
How bad is the shock from the coil? Like 220V
Click to expand...

It's about 20K+. HEI 40k.

It'll get your attention. It's a short blast. You'll be fine. 🙂 If you want to be the ground, you'll know it's working. I usually use a screwdriver and get it close to a ground.
 
Last edited:
Also, when I was looking up the distributor part number it comes up as small and big block Chevy. That's a good thing for those of us that can't get OEM anymore. There's a TON of them available new or used and lots of tune up parts that are easy to find anywhere. I know, I know, it's not Toyota. ;)

I even use one for my Flathead Ford. I can't just bolt it in like you can though. I had to machine the housing down to fit my timing cover, put my Ford gear on it and adjust the advance curve for my engine.

I hope you get it working.
 
I’d buy a cheep Amazon dizzy and a replace the Chinese pickup with a Pertroinix

I run OEM distributors and Pertronix in all my points trucks.

Alternately you may be able to fine a good used FJ60 dizzy and coil but would need an indented lifter cover to clear the larger cap size.
 
It took me awhile, but had more time over this last weekend and finally got it running again. I had to pull the MSD, found more misc vampire crimps, some connectors just falling apart and ignition wiring problems. Had to wire it direct to battery to skip the ignition to debug it. I'll see about adding the MSD back once I get temporary wiring replaced. Runs a little less smoothly without it. Really want to thank all of you for your help!!!

pb4ugo - I've avoided any shocks this time, hopefully I keep paying attention in the future too.

71- Cruiser - Thanks for the tip, we'll see how long this current configuration goes.

aztoyman - Before this happened, I thought it wouldn't be an issue to find parts. Glad to know there are other options out there Toyota parts or not...but I'd be screwed if I had to get someone machine parts and everything else your doing.
 
fcgadget said:
I just bought a points distributor on ebay, thinking I would put a pertronix in it. Bought the Pertronix from Marks, went to put it in but the plate screw holes were in the wrong place. It just wouldn't fit without running into the octane screw system. Bummer
Click to expand...
I don't know exactly what an e-bay dizzy looks like on the inside, I do know that a Pertronix will fit a real Toyota dizzy...
Perhaps a real Toyota baseplate would fit in your new dizzy which would let the Pertronix fit.
Pics might help

20250127_140300 - Copy.webp


20241004_160906 - Copy.webp


20241004_155225 - Copy.webp
 
So where is the condenser? Octane selector is like not useful here in America - most gas is standardized by grade and comes from the same closest refinery - each brand dumps in there own additive package. Maybe if you driving from sea level to 15,000' daily the octane selector could be useful - count the clicks up/down but I'm guessing you are opening the hood to adjust the mixture , so doing the timing at the same time isn't a big deal.

You can carry a set of points in the glove box for 50 years and they will still work - not true with brain boxes.

People drill and tap new holes and make adapter plates/shims all the time. One off production is a few tools and the skill to use them. Drill motor with bits and taps. Dial Caliper, Dremel tool with cutting disks and grinding stones. Propane torch. Pliers. Vice. Hacksaw. Dividers. Hammer and something to use as an anvil. 1/8" thick piece of brass 4"x4" or mild steel?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom