Ben you were right (sorry it took so long for me to respond), I had the bolts in different piles when I did the install. It's been a little over a month and it's been very solid. I get lots of compliments on your work.
Dissent Offroad bumper install instructions
- Thread starter CreeperSleeper
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Ben you were right (sorry it took so long for me to respond), I had the bolts in different piles when I did the install. It's been a little over a month and it's been very solid. I get lots of compliments on your work.
*** edit****I thought this was rear. Not sure about front.
The bolts are 1/2" I typically use a 5/8" drill bit.
A step drill bit makes pretty short work of the task.
I took these instructions a little further and put them in a PDF. If anybody sees anything that I have missed let me know and I will take it down.
These directions helped me out installing mine today. It looks like Ben sent all the hardware so you don't have to use any of the old bumper bolts. I dig it!
Is there a newer thread for install instructions? A lot of the images are no longer shown on this thread and I'm getting ready to install my bumper this weekend.
Theres a pdf somewhere in this thread with all the instructions and pictures.
Bah, just a couple of posts up. Thanks!
Any one care to comment on the time required to install the front bumper? Also are there any picture of this process which include the installation of a Smittybuilt winch, or any winch?
Very nice putting it in a PDF so us late comers can see the pics! Are most people powder coating before they fit the bumper? I'm a day or so away from pulling the trigger on this bumper.
Thanks to all for the instructions. Just got mine installed; big lessons learned are as follows:
1. Prep the frame properly. Get everything off so you can adjust the center supports as required.
2. Get a step drill bit! I stupidly started with a big, cobalt standard bit and it was a total PIA. After a string of expletives, I got a proper step bit and made quick work of the frame holes. It also was essential for mounting the rear and opening up a few other holes to help with alignment.
3. I kept the stock LX bumper wiring harness and reused it for the fog lights and the turn signal mod.
4. Fog lights: I simply hard wired one end of the Rigid receptacle to the stock wiring harness using a "waterproof wire butt splice."
5. Turn signals disappeared as soon as I dropped the stock bumper so I had to move the turn signals up to where the LX has the parking lights. There were a few posts about this but it really isn't necessary to buy all the pieces (socket, housing connector, etc.) because you can buy a direct fit lens assembly with the correct hole in the back and use the same bulb, socket, and wiring from the stock LX bumper. Details are in this post.
6. The Come-up 12.5RS winch doesn't have a cutoff switch. You can hard wire it to the battery then use the wireless remote to turn it off. I would assume that there are no issues with this whatsoever but I also don't want any ghost battery drain to leave me stranded anywhere and I think the number of times I will NOT need the winch will far outnumber the times I will need the winch. The problem is the amp draw when the winch is running can be pretty huge (~470A) and most battery cutoff switches would fail which would defeat the whole purpose of the switch. I'll post the final setup once it is finished.
1. Prep the frame properly. Get everything off so you can adjust the center supports as required.
2. Get a step drill bit! I stupidly started with a big, cobalt standard bit and it was a total PIA. After a string of expletives, I got a proper step bit and made quick work of the frame holes. It also was essential for mounting the rear and opening up a few other holes to help with alignment.
3. I kept the stock LX bumper wiring harness and reused it for the fog lights and the turn signal mod.
4. Fog lights: I simply hard wired one end of the Rigid receptacle to the stock wiring harness using a "waterproof wire butt splice."
5. Turn signals disappeared as soon as I dropped the stock bumper so I had to move the turn signals up to where the LX has the parking lights. There were a few posts about this but it really isn't necessary to buy all the pieces (socket, housing connector, etc.) because you can buy a direct fit lens assembly with the correct hole in the back and use the same bulb, socket, and wiring from the stock LX bumper. Details are in this post.
6. The Come-up 12.5RS winch doesn't have a cutoff switch. You can hard wire it to the battery then use the wireless remote to turn it off. I would assume that there are no issues with this whatsoever but I also don't want any ghost battery drain to leave me stranded anywhere and I think the number of times I will NOT need the winch will far outnumber the times I will need the winch. The problem is the amp draw when the winch is running can be pretty huge (~470A) and most battery cutoff switches would fail which would defeat the whole purpose of the switch. I'll post the final setup once it is finished.
Did you document the comeup winch install? Also for tip #1 do you mean do a thorough job of grinding?
Can you still retain the factory front skid after the install? Thanks
I can help a bit here.
#1. You need to remove a small bracket at the front of the frame "horns". The bumper piece from Dissent that slides over the horns of the frame is a tight fit. If you grind away all the burrs and really keep it clean and smooth, the bumper is much easier to adjust. If you leave a lot of metal burrs and miss a spec of metal from the old bracket weld here and there you may not even get the new Dissent pieces on. Take your time and get it nice and clean.
Come up winch install - it's helpful to have a second set of hands for this. The center section is a little heavy and the winch is VERY heavy. The control box needs to be installed BEFORE the bumper goes on the car. I did not realize this and had to take the bumper off with an engine hoist.
It's pretty straightforward once you're looking at it, but here are the things that stood out to me:
1. The winch mounts feet down. The manual suggests feet out to get the proper rating. Ben confirmed it's ok to have feet down in our application.
2. Control box has to mount up BEFORE bumper goes on the car.
3. Wiring the for winch and control box should all be terminated on the winch-side before you install it on the car. Access will be limited once it's on the car.
4. Use di-electric grease on all the metal-metal connections for the winch so they're protected and you don't have to dive into that later.
5. Install the fairlead before the bumper goes on the car. I'd do it before the winch goes on.
I think that covers it.
I figured that’s what you mean’t for #1, I’ll take my time with that. Fantastic description/directions. Looking forward to receiving my bumper and winch from Ben.
Thanks Supra
Yep