Dissent Offroad bumper install instructions

[CreeperSleeper]

Dissent Offroad bumper Installation Instructions! A big thank you to benc for getting these bumpers out. I understand how hard he is working on these, so I figured I would use pictures that I had from my bumper and Jerry’s bumper to make some instructions. Ben didn’t ask me to do this and he hasn’t proof read it, so just let me know if there is anything that needs to be adjusted or changed. I just figured Ben’s time was better spent welding instead of writing! Please note, Jerry does have a 1” body lift, so you can see how well the bumper fits with the body lift brackets.


Step One:


Unwrap your bumper and admire the beautiful welds and craftsmanship.

Step Two:


Remove your factory bumper. You will notice that the “crash bar” is bolted to the frame with (4) 14mm bolts…

The bracket that those bolts thread into need to go! Time to break out the angle grinder. You don’t want to cut into the frame, just enough to cut through the bracket:

Now grind the welds down smooth so the new bumper brackets can slide on:

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Step Three:


Using the bolts under the frame that held your factory hooks on, bolt up the mounting brackets so the risers are on the inside of the frame. ***Note: Two of the factory bolts have large shoulders. You will either need to use the factory hook as a spacer or buy two new bolts without the shoulder.*** You want these bolts snug, but movable enough to adjust the bumper as needed.

Step Four:


Now it’s time to bolt on the center section. If you are running no hoops or the small stinger, take the time to bolt that on first. It will give you something to hang onto and give you more material to “hang onto” the brackets. If you have the full brush guard, worry about it after the center section is on the brackets, since it will make it cumbersome. The hoop or plates bolt to the center section using the shorter stainless allen bolts, two washers, and a nut. The center section bolts to the brackets with the black allen head bolts and a nut.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

-OR-

Step Five:


Now you need to adjust the bumper. This would involve sliding the brackets forward and/or backwards on the frame bolt. Then tightening the bolts to check for level. If the bumper is not level at this point, you may need to add some shims between the bracket and the frame to get it level. Take your time on this step!

Step Six:

In official ‘Mud fashion, this step is reserved for a frosty beverage of your choice. However, just one as the next step is important!


Step Seven:


Now that the center section is adjusted and bolted up tight, you need to mark where to drill for the cross bolts. This bumper is designed to have adjustment every way possible, so use that to your advantage. You will notice the bolt holes in the bracket are slotted. You may want to make your mark in the middle of that slot to give you more adjustment if needed. ***Note: People with body lift brackets have a lot less adjustment! Make sure that you mark the INSIDE of the frame. I don’t have any good pictures of this, but it will be obvious once you see it.*** Once you have marked where the hole needs to be, it’s time to take everything back off of your truck and start drilling. To make this easier on yourself, make sure to use sharp drill bits. You will also want to drill a small pilot hole first, so the big bit doesn’t walk on you. Last word of advice, make triple sure that the drill is level and plumb before you start drilling and keep an eye on it throughout the drilling process.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Step Eight:


Repeat steps Three through Five. After that, slide the two top cross bolts through the brackets and the holes you just drilled (bolt, washer, bracket/frame, washer, nut). At this point, I would leave all of the bolts holding the bracket onto the frame a little loose. Chances are you are going to adjust the fit a little bit once the wings are on.


Step Nine:


It is time to bolt on the wings. You will notice that the wings have holes cut in them to slide over the black bolts holding the center section onto the brackets. This is very helpful, especially if you are going this by yourself! Now bolt the wing up to the plate/hoop/brush guard using the shorter stainless steel allen bolt, two washers, and a nut. If you have the full brush guard, you would use the same method on the outside mounting plates as well.

Step Ten:


Now it is time to put the bumper caps on. There is a left and a right, so pay attention! Once they are on, you can slide the bottom bolt that goes through the frame in the same way you did the top ones. Then you will use the six longer stainless steel allen bolts to attach the cap on the front. You will also use two washers and a nut for each of these.

Step Eleven:


Final adjustment. You may find that you want to add or remove shims, or slide the bumper around a little bit. Now is the time to do that. This bumper is designed to fit up to the vehicle tightly, but you have a lot of adjustment to put it how you want it. I know some people are worried about the bumper flexing into the body, so this will help you to put the bumper as close as you feel comfortable. Here are some examples of fitment and some more pics of this bumper in various configurations.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Please feel free to post up your own pics, questions, or advice. Let's turn this into a great resource for Dissent Offroad!

 

[Get outside]

I'm starting to put my bumper together and looking through these pics it looks like you drilled those holes avoiding the holes already there, am I correct?
Is that because of the body lift or all brackets require all new holes?
Thanks

 

[bhicks]

I'm starting to put my bumper together and looking through these pics it looks like you drilled those holes avoiding the holes already there, am I correct?
Is that because of the body lift or all brackets require all new holes?
Thanks

X2 on the exact same question

 

[CreeperSleeper]

You will be drilling new holes, no matter if it is a BL bracket or not.

 

[bhicks]

You will be drilling new holes, no matter if it is a BL bracket or not.

So then the picture shown near the beginning of the thread with the two holes in the frame are NOT factory, correct? Those are the holes you added to mount bumper mount, right? I first looked at that picture and thought those are factory frame holes since very similar ones exist on the 80 series but after a closer inspection I see the holes do not exist on the other side and there is metal shaving and drilling oil around the two holes. It makes a lot more sense now. I'm fine with drilling holes but was confused on why we would be drilling holes if factory holes already existed, but apparently they don't.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

There are two factory holes on the inside only of both frame rails. Ignore those holes. You will be marking and drilling your own holes from the outside.

 

[Get outside]

There are two factory holes on the inside only of both frame rails. Ignore those holes. You will be marking and drilling your own holes from the outside.

Thanks, exactly what I wanted to figure out!

 

[benc]

The factory holes are to close together to offer the support needed IMHO, that is why I didn't use them. I wanted them to be as far back and as close to the top and bottom of the frame ends as possible. This will provide the a stronger mounting system. The holes will be very close to the factory ones when you drill them but this will not effect the integrity of the bumper or the frame. The important thing is that the clamping force is as close to the top and the bottom of the frame as possible.

 

[benc]

If a body lift is in your future plans you will want to drill your bottom hole at the top of the slotted hole in the frame bracket. This will allow installation of the body lift brackets or standard brackets

 

[Get outside]

Can always weld the factory holes shut then sleeve the new ones you drill.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

You could, but I don't think it's necessary. It may be a bit stronger, but not enough to make the extra work worth it. However, if you do decide to do that, post up pics!

 

[Get outside]

You could, but I don't think it's necessary. It may be a bit stronger, but not enough to make the extra work worth it. However, if you do decide to do that, post up pics!

It wasn't until after I started messing with the kit and welding things that I realized the small pieces that slide inside the frame to give the anti crunching support! Either way I went for it! Plugged the holes and sleeved new ones. Will put some pics tomorrow.

 

[ylexot]

Thanks for reposting these instructions so they are easier to find. I installed mine last week from memory of the instructions and used the 2 factory holes on the inside of each frame rail as a starting point. (oops) This gave me an install that was not tucked up as close to the body as I wanted. The two existing holes are further forward than ideal. Here's a couple snaps for reference. These hole positions are serviceable and the bumper is still tighter to the body than the ARB on my 80 was. but I agree with Ben that that it would be stronger place the cross bolts close to the horizontal surfaces of the bumper, to pinch where the frame is strongest.

I took it all off yesterday to drill new holes to get a tighter fit. The driver's side has a bunch of ac plumbing near the inside frame rail. I had gotten the bumper snugged up pretty tight to the body and prepared to drill, but stopped short because of the AC plumbing. It looks like drilling straight through from the outside would work. I had to reinstall the bumper in the in the forward position to run errands while I thought about it more. If you're not careful, it looks like the longer bottom bolt could run into the AC line.

1/2 in bit will do the job. (Edit: 9/16 is recommended.) I recommend a good sharp one. I was hoping to use a step bit, but I'll have to use the straight bit for these last 2 holes at least.

 

[benc]

Yes, straight through is the best way to drill the holes. I went back and forth wether to use the factory holes or not and the final decision was not to. A little more work on the install but a much stronger mounting system IMHO,

 

[benc]

It wasn't until after I started messing with the kit and welding things that I realized the small pieces that slide inside the frame to give the anti crunching support! Either way I went for it! Plugged the holes and sleeved new ones. Will put some pics tomorrow.

Haha yes, there are crush tabs inside the frame brackets to prevent the frame from crushing. I should be able to get you those other parts this week.

 

[drwapenshaw]

So it looks like I should be able to do the install by myself, or will I need someone helping? (Assuming I can drill etc.)