Dissent Offroad bumper install instructions
- Thread starter CreeperSleeper
- Start date
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OK. I bought a grinder / cut off tool and it comes with both wheels.
Which wheel do I use to remove the brackets on step 2?
I know this is a stupid question, but I have actually never used one of these before.
Which wheel do I use to remove the brackets on step 2?
I know this is a stupid question, but I have actually never used one of these before.
OK, I will have to go buy appropriate drill bits, looks like mine are all ate up.
Another NEWB question:
Will my rechargable 20VMAX drill be able to make the holes, or do I need an industrial looking drill that is shown in the instructions?
Another NEWB question:
Will my rechargable 20VMAX drill be able to make the holes, or do I need an industrial looking drill that is shown in the instructions?
Your drill should be up to the task. I had to use a lot of different size bits (6-8) so mine wouldn't bind.
Yes be careful! Don't ask how I know...
Yikes! Noted and thanks.
I also knicked the AC line with the grinder. (Reinforced with JB weld.)
I didn't most of my drilling with a 18V Ryobi cordless. Multiple drill buts works. You'll be poking 8 holes in your frame. A step drill bit makes short work of 7 of them. (Again AC lines in the way.) You cant go all the way through the frame from one side with a step bit, so it does require some careful measuring to get good alignment though. However, a few careful marks with a punch sure beat leaning against a straight bit for 5-10 min for each hole . (Thats how long it took me to drill with a straight bit and I started out using a brand new Cobalt bit.)
If you do get a step bit, make sure you get one with 1/8" ish shaft/cutting edge between steps for cutting through thicker steel.
I didn't most of my drilling with a 18V Ryobi cordless. Multiple drill buts works. You'll be poking 8 holes in your frame. A step drill bit makes short work of 7 of them. (Again AC lines in the way.) You cant go all the way through the frame from one side with a step bit, so it does require some careful measuring to get good alignment though. However, a few careful marks with a punch sure beat leaning against a straight bit for 5-10 min for each hole . (Thats how long it took me to drill with a straight bit and I started out using a brand new Cobalt bit.)
If you do get a step bit, make sure you get one with 1/8" ish shaft/cutting edge between steps for cutting through thicker steel.
Ben,
Just got my Bumper, very happy! off to powder coating. couple questions, I thought I post them here for future customers' reference.
In your setup, 2x 9" LED light and the 3x3 side LED, are they using the 40amp harness setup? (same relay, fuse and wires and one 20amp rocker controller)? or do you split them using two set of harnesses? (am no electrician).
I calculated that after completion, I will be adding on additional 60 lbs or so. (stock is about 40 lbs, new bumper with light will be around 100 lbs, no winch). Front will sag, but would it sag to the point that i need to adjust Torsion bar, or play with AHC sensors? How have your customers done it?
Thanks for the support,
Just got my Bumper, very happy! off to powder coating. couple questions, I thought I post them here for future customers' reference.
In your setup, 2x 9" LED light and the 3x3 side LED, are they using the 40amp harness setup? (same relay, fuse and wires and one 20amp rocker controller)? or do you split them using two set of harnesses? (am no electrician).
I calculated that after completion, I will be adding on additional 60 lbs or so. (stock is about 40 lbs, new bumper with light will be around 100 lbs, no winch). Front will sag, but would it sag to the point that i need to adjust Torsion bar, or play with AHC sensors? How have your customers done it?
Thanks for the support,
If you have ahc, then the front end height will remain unchanged. The height in AHC system is determined by the height sensors (i.e., the system will increase the pressure in the hydraulics such that the target ride height is always achieved.). This means in practice that while he height will be unaffected now the system is running at higher static pressures than stock. To bring the system back to stock pressures you would need to "tighten" the existing torsion bars or switch to thicker torsion bars.
In practice, if you have no mechanism to measure the pressure, you can just tighten the torsion bars a few turns (3 - 5 is what I would do) and see if the ride quality has returned to normal/acceptable. If so, leave it be and enjoy the truck. If not, then crank the torsion bars some more and test the ride quality until satisfied.
In practice, if you have no mechanism to measure the pressure, you can just tighten the torsion bars a few turns (3 - 5 is what I would do) and see if the ride quality has returned to normal/acceptable. If so, leave it be and enjoy the truck. If not, then crank the torsion bars some more and test the ride quality until satisfied.
I have all my lights on the factory fog light circuit. They only reason you would need 2 circuits is if you want separate switches.
With no winch you will likely notice no difference at all. On a stock LC with full bumper, bull bar and winch it came down about 3/16 in the front.
Let me know if you have any questions with the install.
Also feel free to post some pics on the bumper thread when you get it all mounted.
@sonk76 - yes, I was thinking i might need to adjust TB and ACH, and got a techstream (but might also need to do CV work, drop the diff - ...more work...). I thought it will sag an inch, 
. If it drops only 3/16 as @benc said, i think its negligible, and just let ACH work a little. I think will be fine. Thank for the explanation and clarifying.
Yeah, hooking it up to factory fog light! did not think about that. thanks! For sure post pics before/after, maybe after a week., i hope. Thanks again for the support.
. If it drops only 3/16 as @benc said, i think its negligible, and just let ACH work a little. I think will be fine. Thank for the explanation and clarifying. Yeah, hooking it up to factory fog light! did not think about that. thanks! For sure post pics before/after, maybe after a week., i hope. Thanks again for the support.
I don't remember if I checked my neutral pressures after first installing the bumper. I didn't notice any real change. Putting the winch in did make a difference and I had to upgrade my torsion bars. Without a winch, a twist or two on your torsion bars might be needed to keep your AHC pressure, but you won't need to worry about diff drop or anything more involved unless you reset your height sensors for a full time lift.
Thank for further clarification and good suggestion on TB adjustment. Will see how it goes.
As to factory fog switch, here is a good link I found on other threads. might be useful to others.
Fog Light Switch Rewire for High Beam Use
As to factory fog switch, here is a good link I found on other threads. might be useful to others.
Fog Light Switch Rewire for High Beam Use
Just got mine mounted, everything is finger tight at this point. Quick questions on final install for @benc or anyone else:
- Paint assembled or break it down and paint pieces individually?
- Should I use locktite?
- Does anyone know what hex size these bolts are? I don't seem to have any bits that fit properly.
Break it down for sure!!!
No need for locktite, use anti seize grease on all bolts instead! Add lock washers.
Just did the installation, everything fit great - no shims required. I'll try to get some pics up. That AC line made me really nervous drilling, but I managed to avoid it.
The one thing I'll add to the instructions is that I didn't get any bolts from Ben for the bumper caps, so I reused the 6 from the factory bumper. They were the perfect length. Now I just need to figure out what to do with the old factory bumper.
The one thing I'll add to the instructions is that I didn't get any bolts from Ben for the bumper caps, so I reused the 6 from the factory bumper. They were the perfect length. Now I just need to figure out what to do with the old factory bumper.
^^^
Glad it went smoothly, the 6 bolts for the caps should have been bolted through the caps when shipped, they hold the caps as well as the shims in place during shipping. are those the ones you were missing?
Glad it went smoothly, the 6 bolts for the caps should have been bolted through the caps when shipped, they hold the caps as well as the shims in place during shipping. are those the ones you were missing?
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Ben - just got my kit back from the powder coater. Looking to do the install this weekend.
Do you have torque specs on the various bolts?
Do you have torque specs on the various bolts?
Honestly I have never used a torque wrench on the front bumpers, the rears I do but the torque on the front is less crucial.
The specs for the stainless is around 260 inch pounds and the grade 8 larger bolts is 90 foot pounds. Make sure to use anti seize on all stainless and it doesn't hurt on the frame bolts either. Let me know if you have any other questions with the install. Also, make sure to post some pics up in the pic thread.
Thanks!