Disc Brake Conversion Options

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I am leaning strongly towards doing the FJ60 front DB conversion.

I would like to upgrade my master cylinder and booster as well. Which years of fj60 or fj62? master cylinder/booster combo should I look for?
Also, Is there anything wrong with doing this before doing the DB conversion, while I am still using the drum brakes?
 
SuperT said:
I am leaning strongly towards doing the FJ60 front DB conversion.

I would like to upgrade my master cylinder and booster as well. Which years of fj60 or fj62? master cylinder/booster combo should I look for?
Also, Is there anything wrong with doing this before doing the DB conversion, while I am still using the drum brakes?
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not too sure on the differences on teh fj60/62 master/boosters. i've never noticed a difference , but that doesnt' mean much. the pics are bad, but one is an 83 fj60 and the other is an 89 fj62.

the 60 series masters are not valved for drum brake fronts, so that will be a problem. the booster won't be a problem, except that you may have to mount it upside down.

be sure when you get the master/booster that you also get the proportioning valve. on a 60 series, the prop valve should be mounted on one of the studs that the master bolts to. not sure where it is on a 62.

my offer to help still stands, but after i get back from cruise moab;)
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drivers-side-RT.webp
 
Thanks! Pics even!

It sounds like I might be better off to just do it all at once then.

How long do you think this job would take if I do everything- mc, booster, discs, knuckles, hubs, bleeding, etc - everything? There is a good chance I'll need your help :wrench: too.
 
SuperT said:
Thanks! Pics even!

It sounds like I might be better off to just do it all at once then.

How long do you think this job would take if I do everything- mc, booster, discs, knuckles, hubs, bleeding, etc - everything? There is a good chance I'll need your help :wrench: too.
Click to expand...

Took me about 2 weeks working very slowly. Less than 24 hours total work for sure. I did it all by my lonesome. That was just the disk brakes though, but I've replaced the booster before and that was just unbolting and bolting and then a bit of adjustment of the push rod. I used this write-up from Guppy here: There's a link inside that helped me out too. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...t-axle-disc-brake-conversion-dummies-faq.html
 
SuperT said:
Thanks! Pics even!

It sounds like I might be better off to just do it all at once then.

How long do you think this job would take if I do everything- mc, booster, discs, knuckles, hubs, bleeding, etc - everything? There is a good chance I'll need your help :wrench: too.
Click to expand...

could probably be done in one long day. count on two to be safe and to get everythign clean.
 
Thanks for the link Laguna. I had read Guppy's DB conv write up before and it looks like the most helpful guide to use, tons of pics.

I won't be doing the conv 'til you're back from Moab Ige. I need to save a little dough to buy all the parts anyway. The booster costs more than I expected too.

I'm going to attempt to do this job on my own, so I'm figuring that I should set aside a weekend for the job. It will be my first time. If I get in over my head I may seek out some help from this forum... and Ige ;)
 
SuperT said:
Thanks for the link Laguna. I had read Guppy's DB conv write up before and it looks like the most helpful guide to use, tons of pics.

I won't be doing the conv 'til you're back from Moab Ige. I need to save a little dough to buy all the parts anyway. The booster costs more than I expected too.

I'm going to attempt to do this job on my own, so I'm figuring that I should set aside a weekend for the job. It will be my first time. If I get in over my head I may seek out some help from this forum... and Ige ;)
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i'm back from moab, so let me know when you're ready to do it.
 
nuclearlemon said:
i'm back from moab, so let me know when you're ready to do it.
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Welcome back! Do you have any good piggie pics to post?

I was using my 55 as my daily driver for about a month, then it developed a case of the death wobbles last week. I had the tires rotated and balanced and that did nothing. Then I lifted the front end tried rocking the wheels. Driver's side was solid, but pas. side had some play. I'm guessing it needs a rebuild, so I used this excuse to bite the bullit and buy all the conversion parts. I should have most of them in later this week. I can't commit to fixing it right now though as I am getting married in 2 weeks and free time is hard to find. I might get started, but realistically it won't be 'til June.
 
I've officially begun my disc brake conversion. I have most of my pass. side disassembled. I'm using Guppie's write up for guidance.
Questions may follow...
 
I'm stuck. Can't get the :bang: inner axle off the birf. Been trying the pipe method and it's doing a good job of braking the floor in my garage, but inner axle wont drop out.
Any ideas?
 
SuperT said:
I'm stuck. Can't get the :bang: inner axle off the birf. Been trying the pipe method and it's doing a good job of braking the floor in my garage, but inner axle wont drop out.
Any ideas?
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keep at it! it should just break that clip in there if you keep banging at it, I got it to work with a plastic pvc pipe, try using a wood block on the garage floor so you dont mess up the floor

another hint when reinstalling the birf and clip back into the axle, it helps to have 2 people, one to push the axle in while the other pushes the clip in, hard to do with one person, my wife was helpful getting this done.
 
I think it might have been Cardinal Fang who posted an idea about using a hoseclamp to compress the little inner clip as you slide the birf on...makes it a one-person job.


1973Guppie said:
keep at it! it should just break that clip in there if you keep banging at it, I got it to work with a plastic pvc pipe, try using a wood block on the garage floor so you dont mess up the floor

another hint when reinstalling the birf and clip back into the axle, it helps to have 2 people, one to push the axle in while the other pushes the clip in, hard to do with one person, my wife was helpful getting this done.
Click to expand...
 
I've got 40 wacks in on the thing easy. I've busted two wood blocks, a brick, cracked the floor in my garage, then switched over to pounding it on a rock in the front yard. I'm sure my neighbors are sick of the pounding. I even tried the Haynes suggested method of using a hammer and a drift. No go.
I think I am going to try a machine shop.
I have moved on to the driver's side where I just got the old hub off tonight. I should have that axle out this weekend to give it a good 40 wacks too.
 
I would pull the other side, if it comes apart with minimal pounding then there must be something going on that is strange with the first side. I have heard others having luck in holding the axle in a vice and hitting the face of the birf with a BFH, but problem need to be careful not to hurt anything.
 
The driver's side axle came off after about 12 whacks with the pipe. I put about 12 more whacks into the short axle and it still won't budge.
 
SuperT said:
The driver's side axle came off after about 12 whacks with the pipe. I put about 12 more whacks into the short axle and it still won't budge.
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Howdy! The short side axle is a lot lighter than the long side, so I think you would have to slam in a lot harder than you did for the long side. Like Lil John said, set the end of the pipe down on a plank or a slab, then slam dunk that assembly into the pipe with everything you've got. Does it look like the Birf is moving back and forth at all on the axle splines? If not, the it is bound up really bad, and you may have to torch it off, or just pick up a replacement from a lister. Now for a really dumb question: is the pipe your using a foot or two longer than the axle shaft? It does need to have room to fall inside the pipe. It's sort of like asking "are you sure you have gas in the tank". Not meant to be an insult, just a quick thought off the top of my head. I know your really having a rough time with this one. John
 
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