Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (2 Viewers)

[Dirty Koala]

Today I went through my whole build thread and created a linked index back in the 1st post. Should make it easier to quickly reference going forward. That took way too much time!

 

[bigfj62]

Very helpful and much appreciated for myself or someone is doing this in the future!!!

 

[RDC76]

Yesterday it was my birthday, and my awesome wife left me to my own devices in the garage all day.

As a result I was able to knockout a bracket to mount the xfer case shift lever on top of the NV4500.

I free cut the shape, then used my vice, heat and hammer to make the bends. Drilled 5 holes for the trans mounting points and then welded in 4 M10 x 1.25 nuts for the shift lever to bolt to.
View attachment 1235771

View attachment 1235772

All bolted up, it's is very rigid.
View attachment 1235775

Shifter bolted in place. I still need to shorten the linkage rod.
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Transfer case bolted up to trans...I am a little concerned with the size and weight since I'll be picking this up as a single unit.
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Nice work!

 

[Dirty Koala]

Nice work!

I started taking measurements to send to you, but in doing so, I figured I would take a stab at making it myself. I am sure you would have created a much cleaner bracket, but this will work for now.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Last night I got a few things buttoned up.

I installed my engine mounts and a PS pump.

The guy I bought the 97 engine from clearly didn't take care when pulling the motor, the power steering pump return line nipple was twisted beyond recovery. Fortunately I have a disassembled 94 6BT, and was able to poach the PS pump from that one. Got it bolted into place.

I also removed the vacuum pump nipple, and bolted on this banjo fitting that came in the diesel adapters kit. I am not sure what the benefit/point of this change is (clearance possibly).

What I am concerned with, is the nipple I removed, had a spring loaded check valve, which I believe was introduced in the 96+ motors, and was a TSB for earlier motors. Seems like this might be a step in the wrong direction.

Do any of you fellas know what the deal is with this fitting? I think most of you likely have the same part. There is nothing mentioned in the kit instructions.
@thegogglesdonothing @waterweber @justinlyman @cnorm5623 @Jvoight @Mr Cimarron

 

[Mr Cimarron]

The banjo fitting may be used to adapter the hose with the brake booster. I have the factory fitting and have to use a reducer to adapter to the hose. Other than that I don't know which way is better.

 

[Dirty Koala]

The banjo fitting may be used to adapter the hose with the brake booster. I have the factory fitting and have to use a reducer to adapter to the hose. Other than that I don't know which way is better.

Could be that...I will take a closer look tonight, but If I recall, the vacuum hose on the booster has a narrower ID than this banjo fitting. The banjo fitting seems to be the same size as the OEM nipple

 

[Dirty Koala]

Dustin confirmed that the PS banjo fitting is for clearance purposes and that the check valve gets removed...not sure if I am a fan of that...but will use it for now.

 

[maxamillion2345]

I used the oem dodge hose to run to my booster but of course I'm not running his kit. ...for what its worth

 

[Dirty Koala]

I used the oem dodge hose to run to my booster but of course I'm not running his kit. ...for what its worth

Yeah, I presently don't see the need for the banjo, @Mr Cimarron is also running the stock fitting. Once I have everything situated i'll decide which works better.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Modified Wiring Harness

I pulled out the modified wiring harness to make sure I understand how everything hooks up, pretty straight forward.

White: IH1, IH2 body harness connectors
Dark Blue: Reverse switch wires
Light Pink: Throttle cable assembly position sensor
Light Blue: Coolant Temp sensor
Yellow: Hold wire for Fuel Shut-Off solenoid
Bright Pink: A/C cut-off switch
Purple: Drivers side fender body harness connector
Dark Green: Crank Tach pickup
Red: Starter (will need to replace with 3/8 spade terminal)
Orange: Transfer Case harness connector
Bright Green: Starter solenoid terminal

I ordered up a Larryb relay kit for the fuel shut-off solenoid to simplify my life a little.

The alternator, A/C clutch and oil pressure sensor wiring is all still attached to the truck, and will be pretty simple to extend and reconnect.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Today I attempted to swing the drivetrain in, but it felt unsafe to do without an extra set of hands. Will need to wait till the weekend.

Instead I got busy with the clutch master and pedals.

Cleared wires and grommet out of the way.

Used a dremel to zip off the two studs that are in the way.

Used my master as a template to drill the two mounting holes, ground the burrs off and gave it a couple coats of primer and cummins black.

Replaced the auto brake pedal with the new manual brake pedel, then mounted up the clutch pedal.

Clutch master done

 

[Dirty Koala]

Spent half the day getting the motor and trans situated today. Both motor mounts are bolted in and the trans is resting on a jack.

I have 1.25" between the 6th valve cover and the firewall lip, which was to be expected.

I had to pull the accessories, turbo and transfer case off to get the motor to hang even on the hoist.

Right now the gear case is rubbing on the steering box and the fuel filter is right up against the brake booster.

I think I didn't clearance the passenger side tunnel enough, causing the motor to sit about 1/2" too far towards the driver side.

I will have a go at fixing these clearance issues tomorrow. Overall a pretty good day.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Spent half the day getting the motor and trans situated today. Both motor mounts are bolted in and the trans is resting on a jack.

I have 1.25" between the 6th valve cover and the firewall lip, which was to be expected.

View attachment 1239224
I had to pull the accessories, turbo and transfer case off to get the motor to hang even on the hoist.
View attachment 1239225

Right now the gear case is rubbing on the steering box and the fuel filter is right up against the brake booster.
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I think I didn't clearance the passenger side tunnel enough, causing the motor to sit about 1/2" too far towards the driver side.
View attachment 1239228

I will have a go at fixing these clearance issues tomorrow. Overall a pretty good day.

Looks good, seeing your engine I wish I did mine Cummins tan.

On the placement and interferince with the steering box. If you move the engine a half inch forward it's mint. I moved mine 1/2" and the clearance all round is good, I also spaced the driverside mount up by 3/16th to give a bit extra room between the box. I need to massage my passenger side a bit more on my tunnel too, it's not touching enough to move the engine over but it's right there.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

This bolt lines up in the same spot on all valve cans in a line. I used this to make sure my engine was straight.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Looks good, seeing your engine I wish I did mine Cummins tan.

On the placement and interferince with the steering box. If you move the engine a half inch forward it's mint. I moved mine 1/2" and the clearance all round is good, I also spaced the driverside mount up by 3/16th to give a bit extra room between the box. I need to massage my passenger side a bit more on my tunnel too, it's not touching enough to move the engine over but it's right there.

Hopefully I have enough wiggle room in the mounts to pull it forward a 1/2", I agree that would make everything fit nicely.

I love the color scheme on my motor, I wanted tan so that it pops a bit, but will also make is easy to spot any leaks.

 

[Dirty Koala]

This bolt lines up in the same spot on all valve cans in a line. I used this to make sure my engine was straight.

That bolt is a handy dead reckoning tool. My motor looks very straight, but I will check that bolt.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Hopefully I have enough wiggle room in the mounts to pull it forward a 1/2", I agree that would make everything fit nicely.

I love the color scheme on my motor, I wanted tan so that it pops a bit, but will also make is easy to spot any leaks.

Lee locally had his Diesel adapter mounts welded and re drilled to move his.

Mine is diffrent as I made my own and used 1st Gen engine mounts, I built that extra half inch into the engine brakets.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Lee locally had his Diesel adapter mounts welded and re drilled to move his.

Mine is diffrent as I made my own and used 1st Gen engine mounts, I built that extra half inch into the engine brakets.

Interesting, so he had them weld up the holes end re-drill 1/2" further back. That is a headache I wasn't anticipating.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Interesting, so he had them weld up the holes end re-drill 1/2" further back. That is a headache I wasn't anticipating.

Yeah, I would try making a 3/16th or 1/4" spacer for the driverside mount, just drill a hole in a plate and cut out towards one side of the plate from there. Then you can slightly lift the engine and slot the spacer in to see what it looks like. Saves you pulling the mount right out (pita) to change Ge spacers. Other option would be to space the steering box off the frame 1/4- 3/8th.