Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (2 Viewers)

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So what stage are you at? Is it a race to the finish? ;P

Look forward to your take on the tires when you get it running, millage etc.
It's on!! We are pretty much neck and neck right now.

I still need to either remove or lower the steering box brace and massage out the drivers side of the trans tunnel before I can swing the new drivetrain in. I have been working on the accessory bracket and sensors. Still need to figure out what I am doing with the tensioner, I don't have the bracket to mount up the top of the block and others have had issues running it down low on the accessory bracket.

Just checked the tracking on my updated adpater...out for delivery!!!
 
It's on!! We are pretty much neck and neck right now.

I still need to either remove or lower the steering box brace and massage out the drivers side of the trans tunnel before I can swing the new drivetrain in. I have been working on the accessory bracket and sensors. Still need to figure out what I am doing with the tensioner, I don't have the bracket to mount up the top of the block and others have had issues running it down low on the accessory bracket.

Just checked the tracking on my updated adpater...out for delivery!!!
Nice!

I don't think there is a issue where DA put the tensioner. It's the stock location on F800 mounts. It could be an issue if the tensioner is setup to contact the AC pully when it's not got a belt on it. Otherwise I see no issue with it there. Looks like I'm about a week behind, not lifting my engine out till next weekend. Things will move quickly then tho ;0
 
Nice!

I don't think there is a issue where DA put the tensioner. It's the stock location on F800 mounts. It could be an issue if the tensioner is setup to contact the AC pully when it's not got a belt on it. Otherwise I see no issue with it there. Looks like I'm about a week behind, not lifting my engine out till next weekend. Things will move quickly then tho ;0
I'll see how the belt looks when mounted, would be nice to not have to get another bracket as I have moved my front liftING point to the same spot that bracket would go.

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I got stuck into the alternator tonight. The toyota alternator has an internal regulator, whereas the dodge alternator does not.

When you pull the back covers off of both alternators you can see how similar they are.
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I removed the regulator and brush from the toyota (top) and the terminal and brush from the dodge (bottom).
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The toyota regulator then drops right into the dodge alternator where the terminal was removed. There was a small piece of plastic on the bottom of the regulator that I trimmed off so that it sits down flush.
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The rear cover of the dodge alternator then needs holes cut to clear the regulator and plug. I used a dremel to make quick work of this.
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With the toyota pigtail plugged in.
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Picked up an xfer case input seal (90311-48016) and pressed it into the updated adapter. It's a tight fit so used Indian head to ensure it's sealed well.
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Got my tires mounted and balanced on my refinished tundra wheels.
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Pulled the cummins temp sensor from the rear drivers side of the head and installed a 90 elbow that then holds both the toyota coolant temp sensor and a nipple fitting for the heater control valve inlet hose.
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Removed the 1/2" NPT plug from the head under the intake manifold and using an adapter, installed the toyota A/C cutout switch.
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Removed the plug on top of the oil filter boss and installed the toyota oil pressure sensor, no adapter required.
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Nice work on the alternator! Are you going to pull the tach signal from the alt?
 
Nice work on the alternator! Are you going to pull the tach signal from the alt?
Thanks. No I am going to pull the tack from the crank pulley. The sensor is looking for 3 evenly distributed nodes or notches per revolution and the 12V pulley only has 2. I got a new crank pulley for a 24V ISB that does not have any notches in it and cut 3 nodes.
 
Very cool that most things transfer over that easily. Does the Toy alternator back cover not fit on the Dodge alternator?
 
Very cool that most things transfer over that easily. Does the Toy alternator back cover not fit on the Dodge alternator?
Yes it's nice to be able to retain the toyota sensors, it simplifies the integration with the guages.

The toyota alternator cover doesn't fit on the dodge alternator. The dodge unit is larger overall, but the regulator and terminals are the same size and dimensions.
 
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Great progress..... I got a another box of parts. I need more free time in the week lol.
 
Great progress..... I got a another box of parts. I need more free time in the week lol.
Thanks. What's in the box?

For every step forward there are two back. I pressed out the fan bearing and hub, and then pressed them into the new fabricated fan hub mount, only to realised that the hub is bent. $315 later I have a new hub, bearing and tensioner coming. If anyone is using Diesel Adapters fan mount, use common sense when pressing in the bearing and hub...don't follow the instructions. The instructions call for you to press the hub into the bearing and then the bearing/hub into the fabricated mount. Doing it this way, puts far too much stress on the hub. Should have pressed the bearing into the mount, and then the hub into the bearing. Costly mistake.
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Thanks. What's in the box?

For every step forward there are two back. I pressed out the fan bearing and hub, and then pressed them into the new fabricated fan hub mount, only to realised that the hub is bent. $315 later I have a new hub, bearing and tensioner coming. If anyone is using Diesel Adapters fan mount, use common sense when pressing in the bearing and hub...don't follow the instructions. The instructions call for you to press the hub into the bearing and then the bearing/hub into the fabricated mount. Doing it this way, puts far too much stress on the hub. Should have pressed the bearing into the mount, and then the hub into the bearing. Costly mistake.
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It's all my intake boots, clamps and silicone couplers for my intercooler pipes. Also got my Sachs pre blead clutch hydrolics, open the box and it's OEM AP parts. Can't complain for $130 cnd $100usd.
 
My new tensioner, fan hub and fan hub bearing came in today. Will get the fan sorted tomorrow.

Tonight I got the A/C adapter plumbing sorted and tested out the tensioner, I think it will work well.

Starting to look like a complete motor.
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And to think this is how you and I met and hell....

Look at this epic beauty that you are building CORRECTLY.

:clap:

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Dude, that was an adventure!!! After spending all day rebuilding the destroyed hub I drove home for 12 hours without touching the brakes once!
 
Will you be able to get a 1/2" breaker bar on the tensioner in that spot once it's in the truck?
 
Will you be able to get a 1/2" breaker bar on the tensioner in that spot once it's in the truck?
I don't see why I would have trouble it's way out to the passenger side.
 
Yesterday it was my birthday, and my awesome wife left me to my own devices in the garage all day.

As a result I was able to knockout a bracket to mount the xfer case shift lever on top of the NV4500.

I free cut the shape, then used my vice, heat and hammer to make the bends. Drilled 5 holes for the trans mounting points and then welded in 4 M10 x 1.25 nuts for the shift lever to bolt to.
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All bolted up, it's is very rigid.
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Shifter bolted in place. I still need to shorten the linkage rod.
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Transfer case bolted up to trans...I am a little concerned with the size and weight since I'll be picking this up as a single unit.
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