How do I get the fill and drain bolts out? I have 24mm socket and it started to round so I stopped. Help! New to fj's and the forum. Looking for advice on my 91 th. Thanks
Diff bolts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 91fj newbie
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From what I have read the issue can be with the bevel on the end of the inside of the socket (its there to help the socket go onto bolts/nuts easier). The mating surface on the plugs is pretty shallow and most of it ends up in the tapered part which results in poor grip. Some have gone and gotten a cheap socket and ground down the first 1/8th inch or so to take the bevel out and get a better grip on the plug.
If its already rounded off too far you may have to weld a nut on there to get them off. That's what I had to do on mine.
If its already rounded off too far you may have to weld a nut on there to get them off. That's what I had to do on mine.
- Thread starter
- #3
I really appreciate the reply. The bolt doesn't look great, not sure what do next. Any ideas on where to get new ones when (or if) I get it out? New to the cruiser world and looking for resources and info
I got mine from Toyota as none of the local parts stores had one that fit. If you search around on this forum there is a part number for a plug that has a magnet on it which is what I went with. They fit many different makes/models. Pretty sure the dealer had them in stock and I don't think they were more than $6-$7 each. Be sure to get new seals with them (copper or aluminum washers).
If you don't have a welder you can try locking pliers or a chisel and hammer but make sure you have your new plugs on hand first. You may try the ground down socket anyway, may be enough left on the plug to break it free if you can get a good grip on it.
If you don't have a welder you can try locking pliers or a chisel and hammer but make sure you have your new plugs on hand first. You may try the ground down socket anyway, may be enough left on the plug to break it free if you can get a good grip on it.
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- #5
Thanks! Great info I will probably grind the socket after I acquire new bolts. Any good parts resources you could turn me on to? I am considering picking up a factory service manual but they are damned expensive. I think I am going to try to wash away the taste of today's defeat with tacos.
Absolute Wit's end (NLXtracy) sells replacement drain plugs. You can use a 15/16" wrench or socket on yours, as sometimes they are a tighter fit.
Wit's end has lots of good stuff. There are a couple others on here too like Beno that are good resources.
I use Toyota Overstock frequently as well as my local dealership. Stick with OEM parts as much as you can. There is a reason these things last 20+ years and 300k miles, no reason to risk that with cheapy parts.
https://techinfo.toyota.com is a good way to get a FSM. Have to buy a short duration subscription and be willing to spend a few hours downloading.
I use Toyota Overstock frequently as well as my local dealership. Stick with OEM parts as much as you can. There is a reason these things last 20+ years and 300k miles, no reason to risk that with cheapy parts.
https://techinfo.toyota.com is a good way to get a FSM. Have to buy a short duration subscription and be willing to spend a few hours downloading.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Usually it's not the fill plug that gets boogered up, it is the circular lip on the bottom of the diff that gets beat up on rocks, not leaving enough room to get your socket it. I have had to break out the dremel a few times to quickly grind out the offending material so that my socket can get in. The fill plugs are not hard to remove once you can get a grip on them. I would recommend switching over to a hex fitting plug so that you no longer need to deal with squeezing sockets in there. @NLXTACY sells them.
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- #10
You guys are awesome! I am happy to become a part of the cruiser community! I will start looking for new plug bolts. just got my fj80 and am really looking forward to having it for a long time. It has just under 300k and all the normal leaks. Any advice on where to start? Or is that another thread I should start or look for?
Chisel and hammer. Works every time.
Buy the hex bolts and 2 short 10mm hex sockets (but not the ball-end ones). Put one socket in your tool box and the other in the glovebox. Get the rears bolts while you're ordering them. And the crush washers.
Hopefully you started with the fill, not the drain. Never start with the drain.
Hopefully you started with the fill, not the drain. Never start with the drain.
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- #13
Started with the fill. I really like the hex bolts idea going to go with that one. Thanks!
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- #14
I have another diff related question- the front pinion leaks. Should I spend 300 to get that fixed or just keep filling the diff (assuming I get the fill bolt out)
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Dont mess around with your diffs, if you blow them up you are going to be looling at a few grand to fix them. Take care of that leak.
someone at work never heard this advice and wasted 45 min trying to get the fill plug out with an ez out and eventually needed to air hammer off the fill plug.
if your planning on doing a rebuild or adding a locker (not an auto locker but a selectable one) than depending on how bad the leak is just refilling is an option, but if that's not in the plans yet that just replace the seal and call it a day
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- #17
Thanks for the advice. Guess I'll be replacing that seal and revealing steering knuckles. Bye bye 1300$
jfz80
Cruisin’
Or hello opportunity......
Dont need FSM for axle build but it helps. Plenty enough info here or if you have a wits end order ready then add his cheat sheet poster. Also available here in pdf format.
$20 pinion seal
$350 in axle rebuild supplies.
Leaves a lot of gas money for a now better educated cruiser owner to go exploring with.
Dont need FSM for axle build but it helps. Plenty enough info here or if you have a wits end order ready then add his cheat sheet poster. Also available here in pdf format.
$20 pinion seal
$350 in axle rebuild supplies.
Leaves a lot of gas money for a now better educated cruiser owner to go exploring with.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Any two banana mechanic can rebuild knuckles and replace the birfs/axles. Do you need a knuckle rebuild? Similarly you can replace a pinion seal without pulling the knuckles apart or pulling the 3rd out...you just remove the 30mm pinion nut and knock the flange off gently. There is a risk that you wont be able to get the correct preload set by doing it this way...the right way to do it is pull the knuckles off, axles out, 3rd out, carrier out, pinion out...then full rebuild...but that requires a lot of specialty expertise in setting up gears...not for the average weekend warrior. If it were me i would start my just replacing the pinion seal...if the pinion is wobbly then go for a full rebuild, otherwise motor on. Then rebuild the knuckles so you know the state of them.
- Thread starter
- #20
Is this a driveway job? B/c I have no garage. Also how long of a job approx? I like the idea of doing the job just a little intimidated and short on workspace. Thanks for tip
