Build Dick's '84 Saudi 45

[DickM]

At least that's a 2F. Also it has the good PVC intake.

And the EGR tube has been cut and welded close- not pretty but will be OK with some "perfume" treatment.

Mine is 1980 GCC part# 17100-61012.

1984 GCC is 17111-61010. 1984 US is 17111-61021

or i can send you a 3f manifold. people keep saying it is better preforming

Thanks for the offer, Meshal.
I put the 3F exhaust manifolds with 2F intake on the 40 when I rebuilt that motor and it is good. As this 2F US intake manifold from the 60 is going to work just fine, I will keep the stock exhaust manifold so that the rest of the exhaust (which is OK) can stay for now.

 

[DickM]

The intake from the 60 is clean and "un-cracked", so it is good to go.

 

[DickM]

More clean-up with access by the motor/tranny being out.
Block with crank still installed, complete head, camshaft, flywheel with bolts, harmonic balancer and nut, connecting rods on the pallet in the pickup for the road trip to the machine shop in Wyoming next week.

 

[DickM]

Motor parts delivered to the machine shop. Beautiful Fall drive through Colorado and Wyoming with good weather.
Next is the tranny/transfer cleanup, and since the split case had to be torn down to come off to get the "Saudi Cement" off all of the cases, the transfer will get a rebuild.
Clean case and @cruiseroutfit rebuild goodies.

Parts and pieces

Tranny almost clean enough to paint

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Motor parts delivered to the machine shop. Beautiful Fall drive through Colorado and Wyoming with good weather.
Next is the tranny/transfer cleanup, and since the split case had to be torn down to come off to get the "Saudi Cement" off all of the cases, the transfer will get a rebuild.
Clean case and @cruiseroutfit rebuild goodies.
View attachment 4017473
Parts and pieces
View attachment 4017474
Tranny almost clean enough to paint
View attachment 4017483

 

[DickM]

Almost time to hope that I didn't forget anything and close the case up.

 

[wngrog]

Don't forget the ball bearing.

It's all about that ball bearing

 

[Meshal]

do you have the part number of this main seal locating in the transfer case?
sorry fro the poor photo

 

[DickM]

@Meshal, if this is the seal for the transmission output shaft that sits in the rear case half of the transfer and keeps the tranny and transfer from sharing oil, I show part # 90311-48007.
I got one from Cruiser Outfitter, their part #TC48002 because I screwed-up the one that came in the parts kit .

Seal Dimensions​

Outside Diameter (OD):​	74mm​
Inside Diameter (ID):​	48mm
Overall Height (OAH):​	10mm​

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

It's all about that ball bearing

Fletch???

 

[wngrog]

Fletch???

Yes but there is also a ball bearing in the H55 a guy that was using my shop forgot one time. Plugged my lift up for a week

 

[Meshal]

My guy looking for the bigger one.
I can't find the part number for it. It would be great if you have it

 

[DickM]

@Meshal, the only other # I find that fits my 45 (FJ45LP-K 1984) is 9031148022, but it shows the same measurements as the other one.
What vehicle is the case from?
This link may help- https://size.name/en/catalog/salnik?brand=toyota#google_vignette

 

[Meshal]

thanks a lot ill do some research and see! that website is amazing!!

 

[DickM]

Transfer case complete.

Off the work table and headed for the tranny jack after the cross member is removed from the new "motor" mount courtesy of @cruiseroutfit.

Ready to install when the motor is back from the machinist. With the shop move to Wyoming, I am sure it will be a while. No worries, always more to do, especially when you are as slow as I have become.

 

[DickM]

Time for another self-inflicted hijack of my own thread. With the motor in pieces in the machine shop and the transfer case rebuild done, I am sort of "in between" for starting the next project on the 45. Plus there is holiday travel scheduled.

For the last 2 years, I have had the parts needed to rebuild the Icon shocks/struts on the 4Runner, as they have about twice the mileage on them that is recommended, and the ride was "stiff".
I have agonized over figuring out when and how to get it done and have done a piss-poor job of coming up with a timely solution.

There is no one within a 3 hour drive (each way) of getting them rebuilt, and since the 4Runner is the wife's DD, a long service interval was not gonna happen.

I have not been able to come up with the info needed to rebuild them myself (even though I bought the kits and oil) with a great degree of confidence, and even if I did, the nearest shop that can put 250# of nitrogen in them also gives me little confidence.

So yesterday, I put the 4Runner on the lift, wrestled the rear shocks and front struts out, and loaded them in the pickup for a drive to Phoenix AZ to drop them off at the Icon certified service center that is on the way to Thanksgiving at my wife's step moms, with a pickup scheduled on the way home.

Definitely not a solid axle

Tie rod and KDSS sway bar removed for clearance

Rear shock getting a bath.

Hope this plays out well.
Hi jack temporarily paused.

 

[DickM]

Hijack resumed- has it really been a month?
Thanksgiving travels complete, 4Runner shock/strut rebuild and reinstall went as planned. Not a complicated reinstall, just a bunch of wrestling and finagling to get tie rods and KDSS torsion bars and struts in on the front.
SDHQ in Gilbert AZ did the rebuild and was awesome to work with. They accommodated my special circumstances and delivered a great product when I needed it at what I thought was a reasonable price.
Now, finally, back to the regularly scheduled programming.

 

[wngrog]

What the eta from the machine shop?

 

[DickM]

With the motor at the machine shop, and the tranny/transfer rebuild complete, my next random attack is on the remaining weatherstrip that is cooked and needs to be replaced.
First, the roof comes off to get to the u-shaped weatherstrip strip that runs across the back rear cab wall section and over the door frames (63313-9030). There is a another separate piece that runs between the windshield frame and the front of the roof (631612-60011). These both came from @Meshal with the truck.

Next, the windshield folds down to get to the rubber that is between the windshield frame bottom and the tub (56211-90801). Ebay, no tariffs.
Also a wiring protection grommet 82818-90300 from City Racer.

Next remove the seats and seat belts to get to the bolts that hold the rear wall section (with the rear and corner windows in it) to the rear tub section. There is a 3 piece weatherstrip (back and 2 side corners) that will be replaced. 2 corner sections still available, but center is not. City Racer has a complete repro. available. 64833-90300 center, 64835-90301 LH, 64834-90301 RH.

Another motivation for pulling all this apart was to repair the rust, chipped paint and general roughness of the metal roof rim/rain gutter, inside and out. Rust stop primer and couple of coats of paint helped greatly. I substituted Ford Wimbleton White touch up spray for the factory Cygnus White as it was available locally, used by other MUD members, and was not very visible or on any other place on the truck as my bezel is chrome.

 

[DickM]

What the eta from the machine shop?

I haven't even talked to them since dropping it off. I made a promise to myself to give them time to get the shop fully set up and not call them until after the holiday season was over. I still have plenty of projects for this winter, and plan to take time to ski if we ever get any snow here.
Patience has never been on of my strengths, so we will see how this finishes up.