Lots of diesel cruisers popping up here in Oregon lately.
Builds DA Build, Story of the Blue HDJ81
- Thread starter Crab Sack
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Wow I am going to give them a call, might be worth it! What load springs did you get?
- Thread starter
- #23
- Thread starter
- #24
OK so it has been a while since I've updated the build. This winter has been a blast in the snow, but now it is time to get back to the build.
I pulled some strings and borrowed the original factory Toyota SST tool kit {unopened from 1981} and performed a compression test and tested the glow plugs. I'm happy to report compression readings all in the 440-450 range and all the glow plugs read around 1.5 ohms.
Lastly upgraded the factory steering dampener to OME to handle the 315s.
More to come in the near future...
I pulled some strings and borrowed the original factory Toyota SST tool kit {unopened from 1981} and performed a compression test and tested the glow plugs. I'm happy to report compression readings all in the 440-450 range and all the glow plugs read around 1.5 ohms.
Lastly upgraded the factory steering dampener to OME to handle the 315s.
More to come in the near future...
- Thread starter
- #25
So I ended up getting a major case of "while I'm in there I may as well replace.........."
Sooo I decided to replace all the radiator and all of the heater hoses on the 81 and since I went that far I decided to re-pack my fan clutch...
And since the radiator was out I may as well take care of the exhaust gaskets and then send the turbo off to get rebuilt (no issues with it just decided to send it out for good measure). Since the exhaust was off I decided to purchase a 3 in 1 gauge set from Glow Shift and drill out the exhaust manifold off the vehicle.
AND...since the exhaust was apart this seemed like a good time to do the motor mounts and transmission mount. They were collapsed and hard as a rock but not cracked or torn. FYI the motor mounts are the same as an FZJ80 but the transmission mounts are different.
Sooo I decided to replace all the radiator and all of the heater hoses on the 81 and since I went that far I decided to re-pack my fan clutch...
And since the radiator was out I may as well take care of the exhaust gaskets and then send the turbo off to get rebuilt (no issues with it just decided to send it out for good measure). Since the exhaust was off I decided to purchase a 3 in 1 gauge set from Glow Shift and drill out the exhaust manifold off the vehicle.
AND...since the exhaust was apart this seemed like a good time to do the motor mounts and transmission mount. They were collapsed and hard as a rock but not cracked or torn. FYI the motor mounts are the same as an FZJ80 but the transmission mounts are different.
- Thread starter
- #26
It's useless to have gauges without doing a few modifications so.... transmission cooler installed... Dawes II turbo boost controller ordered and now the waiting game for the parts to come back from DFIS.
Wow, you're just a fresh set of rings away from a new drivetrain! That's some serious baselining, good work!
slceso
... pronounced "Jason"
Looking to do my mounts also. What's different about the tranny mount? Will a 91 FJ80 work? Please post up how different it feels when you get it running. Mine is low miles but still 27 yrs old and vibrates quite a bit, but I thought it was just the tractor engine doing its thing.
- Thread starter
- #29
I will definitely let you know of the results once I get it running again.
91 FJ80 part number is different than the HDJ81 trans mount.
The part number for the trans mount for early automatic HDJ81s is 12371-61060.
FYI, I was able to order the part from a local dealership. There were only about 5 left in Toyota's Ontario warehouse at the time. Not sure if it will be discontinued after that.
I'm thinking mine could use some fresh mounts as well, but I'm having trouble with the EPC. For engine mounts, there's 2 fronts (12361-17010), and 2 rears (12371-61060)? Or are what I'm seeing listed as rears actually the trans mounts? Because I can't seem to find trans mounts listed separately.
Edit: I see now you've listed the 2nd part # as the trans mount for early HDJ81's, got it.
Edit: I see now you've listed the 2nd part # as the trans mount for early HDJ81's, got it.
- Thread starter
- #31
After several months of waiting for parts/and getting enough time to work on the truck, I am happy to report that the motor mounts made a tremendous difference in cabin vibration. Even though none of my mounts were cracked or separated there was about a 80% improvement in vibration reduction. I would caution against using aftermarket parts for this repair since the original OEM lasted 26 years.
slceso
... pronounced "Jason"
sold. even my windows are vibrating in their seals and my headliner supports make noises like one of those electric engraving pens.
I've got new ones sitting on my workbench as well, any tips for installing them?
- Thread starter
- #34
1. Remove your fan and fan shroud
2. Strap your front axle down to the frame, this will help you when you lift the motor up off the mounts.
3. If you don't have a cherry picker you can cut a 2x6 to cup the harmonic balancer to raise the motor using a floor jack.
4. Note which direction the original transmission mount is facing before removal.
5. Careful on how high you lift the engine since it can pinch the AC line with one of the valve cover nuts.
6. I had my intake, injector pump and exhaust manifold off when I did mine but they should come out pretty easy from the bottom you may have to move the engine side to side to get the new motor mounts in. Definitely easier with a cherry picker.
- Thread starter
- #35
I hope I am almost done base-lining the 81.
Over the last few months I went to town on the beast.
Injector Pump done by DFIS in Portland.
New Melett turbo CHRA. I'm not interested in running 26 psi so I decided against a G turbo.
Dawes boost controller to dial it up to 12ish psi.
New radiator
New Coolant hoses all factory parts (these were a PITA to locate) except Gates for the rear heater hoses.
Packed fan clutch
Motor Mounts
Intake manifold gaskets
4 new Pioneer speakers
On the to do list:
New radio head unit
Repaint front bumper
Install glowshift 3 in 1 gauge.
Sliders
30mm front spring spacers
Over the last few months I went to town on the beast.
Injector Pump done by DFIS in Portland.
New Melett turbo CHRA. I'm not interested in running 26 psi so I decided against a G turbo.
Dawes boost controller to dial it up to 12ish psi.
New radiator
New Coolant hoses all factory parts (these were a PITA to locate) except Gates for the rear heater hoses.
Packed fan clutch
Motor Mounts
Intake manifold gaskets
4 new Pioneer speakers
On the to do list:
New radio head unit
Repaint front bumper
Install glowshift 3 in 1 gauge.
Sliders
30mm front spring spacers
That's VERY helpful, thanks! I guess I'll have to call back my cherry picker, lent it out years ago and have been more than happy to not be storing it since, lol.
How was the intake manifold gaskets to do? That's another of the jobs on my list for this summer.
slceso
... pronounced "Jason"
This is quite a bit more that a baseline, lol! I'm glad you're posting all of this up to shed some light on what a legit mechanic does so people like me can have some guidance. Some questions if you can humor me:
What mileage did you have when you started? I've been driving this for about a year and have put about 13000 kms on it, but it only has 87k. I bought it from landcruisers direct and they go through everything pretty good before you get it, so the overall general service is pretty well up to date (belts, fluids, beb, timing belt). Afik no service to the fuel delivery system or turbo. I've been considering doing a catch can for the turbo.
Are you going to re-gear your diffs? I've got 35's and I'm 90%sure I want to spend on the re-gear first before getting into IC and turbo, which leads to>>>
Can you talk more about your turbo and your thoughts there? I've been poking at IC and turbo upgrade but most of the good stuff that has vehicle specific marketing is AUS and very aggressive like you pointed out. I need more umph for the hills around here and pulling my trailer on the highway, but I don't want to be driving something I have to worry about detonating because it's to hopped up.
I bought the stuff to delete my ACSD, but I don't have any SST or know how for timing. Is that something any diesel shop should be able to do since the pump is kind of a common design? I've heard I will be ok for at least a while without fixing the timing, and my ACSD weeps fuel at the thermowax, so I have some urgency to get this one done.
Also, more info on your interior paint job for the trim. a pic of the paint and primer cans would be good for me. SEM has a lot of product range.
And where did you source your front brake backing plates from? seems like they are $$$$$ unless you have a good donor.
Thanks for your time man!
- Thread starter
- #38
OK lots to cover here,
Land Cruiser Direct offers up some pretty nice vehicles and I believe they do a pretty decent job on reconditioning for the general consumer. I am quite a bit more particular in my vehicle and although the 80 series LC is my favorite Toyota of all time they are indeed maintenance pigs. I have owned mine for a year and I have put 2k kilometers on it and spent prob. 8 grand on parts (I'm afraid of adding up the receipts) building and base-lining the truck. My goal was to have an extremely reliable rig for travel with my family so I went above and beyond and replaced way more than was was needed.
I have no interest in re-gearing the diffs but I do not tow with the truck and it feels pretty good with the 35s I have on it.
I researched the heck out of Turbos but I did not want to go down the road of what a Gturbo costs: Gturbo $2k, Exhaust $1-$2k, Upgraded transmission $7-$8k, Intercooler $1-$2k. and then countless hours tuning the thing. Its an off roading machine not a drag car.
So then since I had the exhaust apart fixing the exhaust gaskets I decided to replace the CHRA. Melett was highly recommended by many people on Mud and at DFIS where they do repair turbos. There are many Chinese knock off turbos out there and I wouldn't rec. 90% of them.
All of the upgraded brake components came from the dealership. I purchased a junk set of calipers from a 96LC and used them as a core for reman calipers from Toyota. I will add a pic of the part numbers on the next post.
You shouldn't have to re-time the truck after removing the ACSD since you disable the ACSD when you set the timing normally. Just make sure you have a good set of allen wrenches to remove the linkage bolts that covers the ACSD, they are on there tight and can easily strip. If your ACSD is leaking the other seals are prob. not far behind in durability. You may want to consider a IP rebuild.
I will send pics from my phone on the next set of requests that you have about the SEM interior paint and adhesion promoter.
You don't need a fully built trans to hold up to a GTurbo FWIW. Valve body upgrade would be wise and the torque converter if you ever have the engine/trans out of the truck. I think there is a lot that can be improved on over the factory CT26 even if your goal is not big power, turbo technology has come a long way in 25yrs.
- Thread starter
- #40
