D2S / 2Stroke LED DEPO Retrofit (2 Viewers)

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Damn !! Really nice job on the write up and final result. I didn’t realize you could run D2S quads in Depos until reading your thread. Time to go back and load another set of D2’s in my setup. Thank!!
 
Finally found time to work on my DEPO project but ran into a few challenges. Resurfacing this thread in case anyone else plans to upgrade the 20+ y/o headlights. I've removed the glass thanks to everyone's help, it was a lot easier than I thought! I'm attempting to install D2S and want to remove the housing to paint and also shave down a few areas to buy some clearance for the projector. (Trying to be like @Luke111 but only half as cool cause I'm not doing quads ;))

What is the best way to remove the white tabs circled? One of them looks like a clip that might just need the right angle and the other is the adjuster. Anyone have any pointers?

View attachment 2566346View attachment 2566347
For the top clip simply turn the adjusting bolt until it releases. The second one requires you to pinch the clip with needle nose pliers and pull the reflector out.
 
Damn !! Really nice job on the write up and final result. I didn’t realize you could run D2S quads in Depos until reading your thread. Time to go back and load another set of D2’s in my setup. Thank!!
I'm not running quad D2S's... the inside projectors are smaller
 
I might be ok with a good fit then, but I really don't need another project.
There's nothing like a great set of headlights that you use all the time
 
This thread is great, thanks for the tips @Luke111.

Unfortunately, I discovered I don’t have enough adjustment room with the D2S’s AFTER sealing them up 😆

I’ll have to do this over the weekend
 
This thread is great, thanks for the tips @Luke111.

Unfortunately, I discovered I don’t have enough adjustment room with the D2S’s AFTER sealing them up 😆

I’ll have to do this over the weekend
You should always install and make all your adjustments before sealing the lights. You need to make sure your cutoff is level then adjust height.. What adjustments are you having issues with?
 
You should always install and make all your adjustments before sealing the lights. You need to make sure your cutoff is level then adjust height.. What adjustments are you having issues with?

That’s why I’m the amateur 😭

I positioned the projectors to the mid-point of “rotational backlash” and planned to rotate the projectors inside the housing if not level. Your way seems better, though.

I’m out of adjustment to bring the projector up.

I can’t tell if I’m out of backspace (metal behind headlight needs larger hole) or the lens is on the glass.

I initially thought it was the former because as I adjusted, the projector output lost clarity/focus. I equated this lose of focus to be caused by the bulb housing shifting from optimal position.

I believed lens contacting from glass would still show focused output.
 
Rotating the projector after you’ve sealed the light would require you to turn it from the back of the housing. …. not sure that’s even possible. Mount the lights unsealed allows you to turn them from the front. After making your adjustments remove the lights and use a liberal amount of JB Weld on the locking ring and the back of the projector tying it into the back of the reflector bowl.
Did you sand down the back of the reflector giving you a level base for the locking ring?
This is important that it’s level and on the same plane as the front on the reflector bowl. If it’s not on plane the projector will be slightly angled limiting the adjustment. I’m assuming you removed the reflector bowl. Did you make sure you recounted it to the snap ball at the top? If not this will greatly limit your adjustment and lastly if the projector is hitting the glass did you follow what I did to create room? Take your time and feel free to call me if you have any questions. 703-371-8494
Lou
 
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Rotating the projector after you’ve sealed the light would require you to turn it from the back of the housing. …. not sure that’s even possible. Mount the lights unsealed allows you to turn them from the front. After making your adjustments remove the lights and use a liberal amount of JB Weld on the locking ring and the back of the projector tying it into the back of the reflector bowl.
Did you sand down the back of the reflector giving you a level base for the locking ring?
This is important that it’s level and on the same plane as the front on the reflector bowl. If it’s not on plane the projector will be slightly angled limiting the adjustment. I’m assuming you removed the reflector bowl. Did you make sure you recounted it to the snap ball at the top? If not this will greatly limit your adjustment and lastly if the projector is hitting the glass did you follow what I did the create room? Take your time and feel free to call me if you have any questions. 703-371-8494
Lou

I figured it would be challenging but I could always grip the threaded base with the magic Knipex Cobra pliers and rotate the 1-2 deg to align. Again, this was my assumption, but your method is smarter.

I didn’t JB Weld the lock ring, but I used blue threadlocker to prevent lock rings from coming undone.

I did not sand the back completely flat like I see you’re doing. I dremeled clearanced the bulb mounting area enough for the lock ring to rotate on the threaded shaft of the projectors. I assumed the h4 positioning washer would sit co-planar with the back of the reflector.

I did confirm the snap ball was replaced both on its base and in the reflector before sealing back up.

Thanks! Car is off getting front seats rebuilt so I’ll take a closer look this weekend. I may be out of room for adjustment within the reflector, but I suspect I first need to figure out the space behind headlight so adjustment of screws actually moves the housing.
 
not sure I saw it in the thread anywhere but what are the two different setups in these? when I google mini h1 I see the projector and when google d2s only bulbs come up. do you sell everything on your site to do this? thanks. super happy with my parts from you for the 470.
The Retrofit Source is a great source for product but I would stick with the Mini H1 for your first retrofit. Try searching Mini D2S 5.0 projector.
 
The Retrofit Source is a great source for product but I would stick with the Mini H1 for your first retrofit. Try searching Mini D2S 5.0 projector.
Ok. Is that the inner or outer one in this thread? As mentioned I got the plates and full kit from you for my 470 and it’s been great. I hate the look of these on an 80 but the light output is so amazing on the 470 I’m willing to do them on the 80.
 

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