D.U.I. Distributor

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Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Threads
75
Messages
1,251
Location
Victoria B.C.
Before you try to talk me out of it, it is too late i already bought it used. PO says less than 1000 miles on it and it was off a 2F 84FJ60 and i am going to install it into my 76 FJ40 with stock dizzy with points and condensor. I have no instructions but have read up on it and install seems fairly simple but i am after install info from mudders who have done this mod. One thing i am not sure of is 12 v power, where do i get this from, i read 12 ga wire to starter is a suggestion. The 3 wires from dist are red, black and yellow, which one do i tap into and what do the other 2 do?
Thanks in advance for help and here are a few pics
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Wombat, you got a good price on that. Replacement parts are readily available from Napa and many others. Call DUI M-F after 8:00 and the friendly customer service will help you out and probably email instructions which are quite simple. You will need a relay, pictured, but if you have an old Ford starter relay laying around it will work as well. I bought my relay from the electronics store down the street for about $6.00.

Mitch
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mschliebs-thanks for the reply. Who are DUI M-F and whats their ph# or e-mail. In your pic do you have a tach wired in as well? and do you know which of the 3 wires to dist is 12v in?
 
these guys = www.performancedistributors.com

you need a relay? for what?

1. take note of where the old spark plug wires go to make sure the firing order/timing remains the same and take off the cap of the old dizzy.

2. take note of where the rotor is pointing as you take out the old dizzy.

3. take the cap off the DUI. if you have a heater hose running across you're side cover you will have to move it somewhere (the guy above moved it higher with some long brackets it looks like)

4. align the rotor facing the same way as the old one and slide the dizzy down. MAKE SURE IT IS FLUSH. this ensures you have oil pump engagement. I have never used the gasket supplied with the DUI and haven't had any issues.

5. Put the blue DUI cap back on and put the new spark plug wires in the correct sequence.

6. put that plug with the three wires into the blue cap. It can only go in one way.

7. Then take one positive wire (the one that was previously hooked up to your coil will work)... it should read 12V in the start&on positions. Hook that single 12v wire up to the BAT side in the black portion of the DUI cap. EDIT: my 78 didn't have a condensor... do some searching i think you have to remove that. Either way all other wires you can just cap off. You won't need them anymore.

8. make sure once again that the DUI is flush with the engine block.

9. fire it up (once again make sure you have oil pressure right away), adjust the timing if necessary, and tighten down the hold down clamp
 
Update- I got it running and took it on some good test drives up hills and on highways etc. it runs good and seems to have more power. I had the usual install problems like heater hose in the way and when i removed that the stud that secured the hose was too long and hit dist cap. Removed stud and installed bolt.When installed the correct way that the old dist was the vac advance pointed right at the second battery so i had to rotate the dist and move the wires to make the advance point to the oil filter. Good thing i just switched to the small Toyota oil filter. I also had the same problem that some others have had that the dist wouldn't quite go all the way down and i played with that for ages till i finally rotated the rotor 180 and it dropped right in. Now i had to move all the plug wires again.
2 questions- other than the tdc mark and the BB there are no other marks when setting timing so i have gone by sound and guess how far beyond the BB about 10-12 degrees are.
-When i disconnect the ballast resister and coil i only get power in the start mode so i have hook it back up and it runs fine ,What is the correct way to disable B/R and coil and still have power at the starter where i got my 12V power for dist. Or should i just get my 12V from the thick black/yellow wire going to the B/R.
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test the thick black/yellow wire... it should have +12V with the key in the RUN and the START positions. I believe that is the wire I hooked my DUI up to.
 
What is the benefit to the DUI distributor?
 
What is the benefit to the DUI distributor?

SIMPLE

Gets rid of alot of small stuff that can cause problems.You can also walk into any parts store and get parts if you ever need them. Definately helped the performance of my f motor.
 
I got rid of the metal tube. I also do not use a relay. I ran 12 gauge wire.
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Update-- I moved my 12V wire from the starter to the Black/yellow wire going to the resister and everything runs great but if i disconnect the resister and coil i have no starter. So question is.
Leave every thing connected up and be happy with that,is it causing any problems being still connected or
Is there some way to disconnect resister and coil and still have starter work?
 
Update-- I moved my 12V wire from the starter to the Black/yellow wire going to the resister and everything runs great but if i disconnect the resister and coil i have no starter. So question is.
Leave every thing connected up and be happy with that,is it causing any problems being still connected or
Is there some way to disconnect resister and coil and still have starter work?

Please post up a couple pictures of this wiring...
 
Please post up a couple pictures of this wiring...
See pics in post #6 i had the 12v wire from dui to the post on the starter and everything works great but i thought with dui i dont need coil and resister anymore and when i disconnect it no starter. I now have run 12V wire from dui to black/yellow wire on the right or front side of resister and everything works great til i disconnect wires on coil and left or rear end of resister. It seem starter needs power from this resister and + side of coil.
 
The black wire with the white stripe that connects to the spade lug of the starter solenoid is the start wire from the ignition switch. That and the battery wire is all you need to get the starter to run.

The other wire that you have the red attached to in the picture is the resistor bypass wire. You don't need this if you don't use the resistor. Just connect the large black/yellow stripe wire that is connected to the resistor to the red wire of your distributor.

GM makes a good distributor, but performance will be no different than any other properly functioning distributor. Don't be fooled by advertising hype.
 
The best way to wire an HEI distributor is with a relay. Run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the distributor. Use the original ignition wire to trigger the relay. HEI's need a full 12 volts to function properly. You can also open your plug gaps to .055.
 
The best way to wire an HEI distributor is with a relay. Run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the distributor. Use the original ignition wire to trigger the relay. HEI's need a full 12 volts to function properly. You can also open your plug gaps to .055.

What size relay do you run?
 
I use this 30 amp with my DUI. Works fine. "RELAY"
I found this socket later. "SOCKET" I plan to use it instead of the individual crimp-on terminals. Only because a change out would be quick and easy for diagnostics sake. The relay on the Sniper is essentially the same thing but not a Bosch. I plan to go with two sockets and two Bosch relays then carrying one spare relay would cover them both. If I'm diagnosing a problem I could swap out a relay faster than breaking out the meter.
 
I use this 30 amp with my DUI. Works fine. "RELAY"
I found this socket later. "SOCKET" I plan to use it instead of the individual crimp-on terminals. Only because a change out would be quick and easy for diagnostics sake. The relay on the Sniper is essentially the same thing but not a Bosch. I plan to go with two sockets and two Bosch relays then carrying one spare relay would cover them both. If I'm diagnosing a problem I could swap out a relay faster than breaking out the meter.

Thanks!
 
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