FMC80
SILVER Star
Dang Broski, gotta read the sarcasm. Everyone knows CA is why cancer exists. Btw, I’m a cancer. By zodiac or something, but also because that’s what my father calls me.
I’m also happy you’re healthy.
Custom Inside the Frame Exhaust using 105 header (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MPolley
- Start date
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I’m also happy you’re healthy.
Hey FMC, you can click on the profile name and then add to ignore list. One of the better things I've learned on this forum. Some people will drag you down with their buisness.
I dont have anyone on ignore. Everyone can have a bad day or a topic that hits home. Me included.
I can take crap as much as I can dish it
FMC80
SILVER Star
Thanks, cody, but I love me some Broski. He tells it like it is, and sometimes jokes go over his head. That's why he has some of us "youngish-bucks" to remind him to chill, take a shot and unclench.
Cheers everyone
I already got blocked hahahahaThanks, cody, but I love me some Broski. He tells it like it is, and sometimes jokes go over his head. That's why he has some of us "youngish-bucks" to remind him to chill, take a shot and unclench.
Cheers everyone
First part of this thread was very helpful and informative…
- Thread starter
- #28
I'll be working on it more today so we can get back to truck talk
- Thread starter
- #29
Got the exhaust welded up. Next step is to drill and weld in the O2 sensor bungs, finish weld the hangers to the frame, and get it all painted
- Thread starter
- #30
O2 bungs and hangers welded in
- Thread starter
- #31
Its all mild steel so it needs rust protection. I wanted durability over looks, so I brushed on high heat BBQ paint. I've never had luck with VHT or any other spray on header paint. I'm also going to use Eastwood's internal exhaust coating, but it hasn't arrived yet
Leaving the heat on in the shop for a couple more hours to help it dry, but I'm done working for the night
Leaving the heat on in the shop for a couple more hours to help it dry, but I'm done working for the night
VHT has never worked for me either!
Nice dude. I’m excited to see others going this route 
here’s how I’ve got my oxygen sensor tucked in there:
here’s how I’ve got my oxygen sensor tucked in there:
- Thread starter
- #34
With the exhaust out of the way, I've started finally installing my rock sliders that I bought from Marlin Crawler 3 years ago. I didn't want to build around the cats because my fabrication skills are not very advanced yet.
The internal exhaust coating I ordered from Eastwood should arrive today along with my manifold gaskets. I'm going to coat the insides of the pipe, then wrap the headers and cat to protect things from heat. I also have heat wrap for the wiring that I wasn't able to tuck out of the way as well as the rear heater hoses.
I always carry extra lengths of heater hose in the truck, so if I end up having a problem with the rear heater lines I can bypass it quickly on the side of the road/trail, but I am going to try and keep it if I can.
The internal exhaust coating I ordered from Eastwood should arrive today along with my manifold gaskets. I'm going to coat the insides of the pipe, then wrap the headers and cat to protect things from heat. I also have heat wrap for the wiring that I wasn't able to tuck out of the way as well as the rear heater hoses.
I always carry extra lengths of heater hose in the truck, so if I end up having a problem with the rear heater lines I can bypass it quickly on the side of the road/trail, but I am going to try and keep it if I can.
- Thread starter
- #35
Over the weekend I got the header and mid-pipe/cat wrapped, rear heater hoses under the truck removed, and the exhaust all bolted in.
When I went to install the O2 sensors last night I ran into a problem. The kit for the bungs I bought said it came with M6-1.25 studs, but it didn't come with nuts. That is a really weird thread size, so I bought some M6-1.0 hardware thinking it was a misprint. The M6 hardware was too small, and factory thread size M8-1.25 was too big.
I pulled out my thread checker and it turned out they had used M7-1.25 studs. WTF?!?!?!? The only time I've ever seen that size was on some BBS two-piece wheels I was going to restore for a VW a few years ago.
I ended up pulling the midpipe, drilling out the holes and re-tapping to M8-1.25, then cut heads off some bolts I had laying around to make studs. By the time I had that done it was time to go to bed.
Tonight I will reinstall the midpipe and get to hear how it sounds for the first time!!!
When I went to install the O2 sensors last night I ran into a problem. The kit for the bungs I bought said it came with M6-1.25 studs, but it didn't come with nuts. That is a really weird thread size, so I bought some M6-1.0 hardware thinking it was a misprint. The M6 hardware was too small, and factory thread size M8-1.25 was too big.
I pulled out my thread checker and it turned out they had used M7-1.25 studs. WTF?!?!?!? The only time I've ever seen that size was on some BBS two-piece wheels I was going to restore for a VW a few years ago.
I ended up pulling the midpipe, drilling out the holes and re-tapping to M8-1.25, then cut heads off some bolts I had laying around to make studs. By the time I had that done it was time to go to bed.
Tonight I will reinstall the midpipe and get to hear how it sounds for the first time!!!
- Thread starter
- #36
Been doing a bunch of other stuff on the truck to get ready for Shamrock Shakedown at Windrock in a few days. Here's a link to how she sounds!
Nice quiet idle with a growl when you step on it. It sounds pretty much exactly how I hoped
Nice quiet idle with a growl when you step on it. It sounds pretty much exactly how I hoped
- Thread starter
- #37
Well, I drove it in to work today and heard some rubbing. The front driveshaft is rubbing on the header flange, which I was afraid of.
It looked close on my 2 post lift at home but I didn't have a good way to load the suspension and check. I took this pic on the alignment rack at work.
I'm going to grind down the flange as much as possible and try to bend the header to clear
It looked close on my 2 post lift at home but I didn't have a good way to load the suspension and check. I took this pic on the alignment rack at work.
I'm going to grind down the flange as much as possible and try to bend the header to clear
Oh boy, now you have a stress riser in the driveshaft, gonna need to change that out before it twists right clean off.
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Just messing with you
, it should be fine.
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Just messing with you
, it should be fine.- Thread starter
- #39
Lol yep, I'm totally screwed. Actually all it did was help me clean a little rust off lol. I did grind away at the flange enough to clear at ride height. I need to find a way to flex the front right wheel and make sure it clears at full compression.Oh boy, now you have a stress riser in the driveshaft, gonna need to change that out before it twists right clean off.
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Just messing with you
Worst case it's good enough for Windrock this weekend, and if I have to cut out the flange and do something different I can do that when I get back
Going to Windrock this weekend?
