Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (1 Viewer)

[cruisermatt]

 

[wheelin62]

Make sure that when you go around corners w/ the aussie in the rear that you don't hammer the gas. When I had on in the rear it was like riding a bucking bronco.

Yeah even after 15 years with lock-rites, it will still catch me off guard sometimes and I get the look of "he doesn't know how to drive a stick".

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

80 series rear axle= good choice..

 

[hj 60]

Finished yet ?

After 1000 kilometers with the rear LOKKA very sad I did not buy them the first day.
No problems at all, just make sure the tolerances are like in the manual, that is the whole thing to get a normal ride.
(tolerances for first and second measurement, equal tire wear, equal tire pressure)

Very impressed and must release clutch before turn (like learned at driving lessons) and try not to shift in the turn (which I used to do to 2nd gear)
So makes driving a bit slower when other traffic pushing behind you. When alone no problem.

Making a 180 turn on pavement is also not what I like anymore, and the sharp turn in a parking lot, but no problem.
You can feel them lock when driving straight coming from a turn,
and for me its now a must have, wish more people were strong in urging me to buy them sooner

So no problems at all, just adjust driving and bloody enjoy driving trough mud in 2x2 high gear.

 

[cruisermatt]

The front is going in first. I'm installing an 80 rear diff that came with my 80 axle in the front 62 housing with a lock right. The Aussie should come in the mail in a few minutes, that will get installed in the FJ62 FRONT diff (that has low miles) into the 80 rear housing. Make sense everyone? Locked front and rear, full floater, rear discs, all at once.

 

[cruisermatt]

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So at this point your truck has been assembled for a total of what, 7 days in the past two months? Sounds like something I'd do

 

[cruisermatt]

This is my first attempt at what is know as the "Camo" method of removing the wheel hub. It keeps the brake rotor and knuckle together so you don't have to reset the wheel bearing preload. Just remove the Aisin hub dial, outer snap ring, disconnect the tie rod from the steering knuckle, pull the upper steering arm and loosen the lower trunion bearing cap.

 

[cruisermatt]

The "Hydraulic Table" from Harbor Freight fricken rocks. Raise it up to the height of the diff, slide the diff out of the housing on to it, lower it two inches and roll it out from under the car. I weigh 135 pounds, so maneuvering a 75 pound diff a foot off the ground while lying on my back isn't easy. I have done it that way however.

 

[cruisermatt]

This was my view at 6:30 this morning:

 

[cruisermatt]

And had to finally succumb to Florida weather. It was HOT today, got pretty fatigued. Every ten minutes I had to take a five minute break and splash water on my face. I drank over a gallon of water today. This delayed me quite a bit. It started storming about half an hour ago but all I have to do now is put the wheels on and fill it with gear oil.

It's amazing that it took me essentially 4 hours to pull and reinstall the front axles (not including the diff swap), it took me 12 hours a side to rebuild them completely a year and a half ago. So I'm 5/6 faster?

 

[cruisermatt]

So at this point your truck has been assembled for a total of what, 7 days in the past two months? Sounds like something I'd do

Engine came out late May, was apart for two weeks and 5 days, but not running for another week after that. Then it was running decently for a week, put 100 miles on it, Saturday through Monday took it off the road to adjust valves and torque head, drove it yesterday now it's apart again. Its only down for today though. 80 rear axle should take one full day, thinking Thursday next week?

So to answer your question, yeah I think 7 days in ONE month

 

[cruisermatt]

Stuff I've had planned to do in this and next week before July 3rd:

-Rebuild front axle + install front locker DONE
-new front pads DONE
-new Aux Battery DONE
-recheck valve lash/retorque head bolts DONE

Still need to do

-Rear axle rebuild/swap + install rear locker

I have 7 days

 

[TLC Norway]

Rear axle is quick and easy, you'll be done in a good day, maybe a couple hours in cruiser mode.
You need to swap the water for beer, and you'll be golden.
Just remember to bring the nuts and bolts that are leftover when you're done, put them in a zip lock bag hanging from the rear mirror, put them in as you sober up/start leaking [emoji14]

Good job!

 

[cruisermatt]

After letting the silicon between the axle and diff cure overnight I poured in some gear oil and took it for a spin. Driving on pavement with the front locker is hard!!!

 

[hj 60]

Dont you have locking hubs?
I was afraid front locks would damage the steering pump but when only used with locked hubs on mud other people say it goes straight forward in turns and driving on ice becomes almost impossible.

But the uphill performance seems 100% increased so still thinking about buying front lokka.
On pavement with hubs unlocked they are non existent so that would be no issue.

 

[TLC Norway]

Have you done the 2lo mod? Really helps navigating tight spots with a autolocker front.

 

[cruisermatt]

Yeah it's no problem with the wheel hubs disengaged. No snow here.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

I shattered my OEM birfs literally 10 minutes into wheeling when I installed the locker in the front. You should be fine w/ smaller tires, but that thing does put a lot of stress on the front end. Makes getting up/around/through obstacles on the trail effortless though which is worth it.

 

[Cruising Canuck]

Can't wait to hear your experience with the lockers on your trip.
I was thinking of getting the aussie in the front. That way I can drive around with hubs unlocked with no issues, then lock up the fronts for mud.
Does that make sense? Or would it be better to throw it in the rear