Control Arm Removal and Castor Cor. Bushing Install

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Going to try and get this done over the weekend. Will be removing the front control arms and installing CC bushings. The FSM refers to them as leading arm, but I notice in my research here on MUD a lot of people call them control arms (including the Slee guide), or am I confused? Either way, I will be removing the front control/leading arm and installing OME castor correction bushings. Here are my workflow steps:

Blocking the wheels, put jack stands under the frame (was going to put on frame behind front wheels), use a ratchet strap around front and rear axle and tighten down, and remove control/leading arm starting with front bolts and working towards the rear. I read on here to only do one side at a time to minimize axle movement, so was going to start with the PS. But is there any harm in removing both at same time with the steps I will be taking? After that, will attempt to remove old bushings and install new OME CC bushings.

Between the FSM, Slee guide, and the countless threads I have read on MUD I should have a good set of instructions to get going. How do my workflow steps sound? Anything critical I am leaving out? Anyone done this recently and have anything to add that may help me out. Thanks!
 
You have access to a multi-ton press and the tool to remove the old bushing and install the new, yes?

Control arm, leading arm, all the same.

One side at a time is easier since the axle can't really rotate much or move sideways much with one arm still attached.

Be safe...

cheers,
george.
 
Hey Jen,

The bushings in the arms are really a tight press fit. Many people have found them tough to get out/in with even a 12 ton press. If you don't have a shop press this is probably something that I would leave to a shop.

If you do tackle it, I would do like George recommends and only do one side at a time, if you unbolt both sides the axle will want to rotate down and move because of the weight of the pinion, making it a little easier to line things up and get it all bolted back together.
 
You have access to a multi-ton press and the tool to remove the old bushing and install the new, yes?

Control arm, leading arm, all the same.

One side at a time is easier since the axle can't really rotate much or move sideways much with one arm still attached.

Be safe...

cheers,
george.
Unfortunately no, I don't have access to a multi-ton press...was going to try the drill out rubber and saws-all removal method first. If unsuccessful, will have to take to a shop to get them out.
 
Unfortunately no, I don't have access to a multi-ton press...was going to try the drill out rubber and saws-all removal method first. If unsuccessful, will have to take to a shop to get them out.

... and how will the new bushings be installed? Drill them too? J/K

Anyhow, this is a job for a shop that has a BIG press plus your husband will be getting less and less 'happy' with your cruiser addiction when he has to heave those control arms here and there... :)

cheers,
george.
 
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Anyhow, this is a job for a shop that has a BIG press plus your husband will be getting less and less 'happy' with your cruiser addiction when he has to heave those control arms here and there... :)
He secretly loves it I think....even though his face during these projects hates it and me for having to bail me out and do all the hard work. But he will be around this weekend, so will definitely be helping me!
 
No you can't pound them in with a rubber mallet that would be way too easy. :) Like I said 10 ton press minimum! :censor:
So I take it I cannot squeeze them in with my table mounted vice? Cause that was my backup plan! Looks like I may need to take them to the shop...
 
when I did mine a 12ton press struggled and when they did come out it sounded like a high power rifle going off...scary...
 
So I take it I cannot squeeze them in with my table mounted vice? Cause that was my backup plan! Looks like I may need to take them to the shop...


shop will be your friend..;)
 
So I take it I cannot squeeze them in with my table mounted vice? Cause that was my backup plan! Looks like I may need to take them to the shop...

Um.... NO, your table mounted vise will *NOT* do the job (not sure about your vice - hopefully a 'nice' one :) )

cheers,
george.
 
You can drill & sawzall to cut out the old ones (search for directions). I used a sledge to put my new ones in but I don't recommend it.
 
I noticed that the OME yellow bushings went in a lot easier than the Toyota bushings came out, so I'm betting that they will press in with a 6 inch inch bench vise.

It is nice to have a tempate for the spacing of the holes in the bushings. The other control arm works great for this, but if you want to leave it in place, drill 5/8 holes into a strip of steel or block of wood using the arm and bushings as a guide.

Put a little castor oil on them to make them slide easier. It is a laxative derived from the castor bean. Use caster correction bushings.
 
In my experience its worth getting an alignment report in degrees before and after should only be about $20
Btw you are seeking +2 to + 4 degrees
I prefer closer to 4 than 2
 
I noticed that the OME yellow bushings went in a lot easier than the Toyota bushings came out, so I'm betting that they will press in with a 6 inch inch bench vise.

It is nice to have a tempate for the spacing of the holes in the bushings. The other control arm works great for this, but if you want to leave it in place, drill 5/8 holes into a strip of steel or block of wood using the arm and bushings as a guide.

Put a little castor oil on them to make them slide easier. It is a laxative derived from the castor bean. Use caster correction bushings.
That's a great idea for a template! Since I was doing one side at a time, I was wondering how I could line them up without having both out. Thanks for the tip!
 
While vicing and smashing may work, I agree with team go to a shop. I've had 2 different friends help me twice with mine with there 12ton press's. I'm not allowed to mention the word bushings around them anymore.
 
I noticed that the OME yellow bushings went in a lot easier than the Toyota bushings came out, so I'm betting that they will press in with a 6 inch inch bench vise.

It is nice to have a tempate for the spacing of the holes in the bushings. The other control arm works great for this, but if you want to leave it in place, drill 5/8 holes into a strip of steel or block of wood using the arm and bushings as a guide.

Put a little castor oil on them to make them slide easier. It is a laxative derived from the castor bean. Use caster correction bushings.
"Caster oil" . . .

:lol:

I'm no help, I know.
 
Just please be careful to put jack stands under the frame not just the axle when you remove the arms.
Safety first!
 
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