I used landtanks template to install my bushings. Still have it but it would take 10 days to get to you, bruddah. I thought the hardest part was reinstalling. You really have to twist the front end to get it back in...just a pain
Control Arm Removal and Castor Cor. Bushing Install
- Thread starter Aloha Jen
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I advise against them. I removed mine and it was a total nightmare. Torch, sawzall, drills etc. Took about 5 hours. Then the caster bushings I installed never gave me a good ride, eventually fell apart and I went back to a machine shop and had the stock bushings pressed in, did the washer mod and now all is good. L.B.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks for all the advice! I think the consensus is that getting bushings out/in will be a nightmare.
But in order to even get to the bushings I need to get the control arms off....safely! Since I didn't hear any alternatives, can I assume that my work flow plan in my first post is a good/safe way to proceed?
But in order to even get to the bushings I need to get the control arms off....safely! Since I didn't hear any alternatives, can I assume that my work flow plan in my first post is a good/safe way to proceed?
If you are going to try to remove both arms so you can make one trip to shop with a press then get some extra jack stands so that you can put at least one under the front pinion where the drive shaft connects to minimize rotation of the axle. Maybe also put one under each end of axle just high enough to remove some weight and help keep axle in place in addition to your wheel chocks. Of course rear wheels should be chocked both front and rear.
To answer your question asked, yep - workflow looks good, I'd only add that loosen all the bolts & work them loose to the point you can pull easy- get them all like this before pulling any of the hardware out - then when you go to remove them it's 1 easy step.
Like others said, the template made by drilling wood, use the bolts to align into that block the newly positioned bushings - then not only do you get the correction angle right, but you won't fight a bolt due to a misaligned bushing. And yes to the press - make matchmarks between new bushings & arms to verify position while pressing in.
Like others said, the template made by drilling wood, use the bolts to align into that block the newly positioned bushings - then not only do you get the correction angle right, but you won't fight a bolt due to a misaligned bushing. And yes to the press - make matchmarks between new bushings & arms to verify position while pressing in.
Those look like the Ironman's. Yes? If so they are notorious for being junk.
kenavt
SILVER Star
Related, since I just set up to pull out my caster arms. I’m going to install a Dobinsons caster correction bushing kit with up to 2.5deg caster (RB59-522K). The OME kit and Slee instructions mention making a vertical mark on the arm before pulling it out but the Dobinsons kit doesn’t, it just talks about the bushing hole spacing. Do I need to make that vertical mark? I probably need the max amount of caster anyway.
Direct instruction link, and this may be a question for @crikeymike.
Direct instruction link, and this may be a question for @crikeymike.
I recently replaced my Slee caster corrections bushings with Dobinsons and found the vertical marks used for the Slee install ended up corresponding with the template that Dobinson provides. Having a machine shop press the bushings in/out was money well spent. I also did one arm at a time to prevent axle movement. Torquing the bolts to130 ft-lbs with limited space was fun.