Builds colonel mustard, in the garage, with a wrench (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

On those hood hinge pins, I took a “C” clamp and a small pin, put the clamp in a vise, just to hold it, and then tightened the clamp with the pin pushing on the hinge pin. You can either offset the clamp a little so the pin will push out the other side, or if you have a small piece of pipe, you can put that on the other end so the pin can push through and into the pipe. I hope this wasn’t to confusing, it might sound like it, but once it’s all done it’s very simple. I oiled my hinges and then did the “C” clamp and the pins came right out.
makes sense. similar to doing a ujoint with an old deep socket. one of the PO painted over the hinges which makes it a little more difficult. i got new hinge pins from SMG, things are beefy!
 
Finally has the old rotten exhaust replaced today. I don’t do exhaust work so I had a small local shop do it for me. I picked a slim line flowmaster and I’m happy with the sound, paired with what I think is an old Downey header.

28343C52-16F5-4D58-BE0F-5ED7B056C985.jpeg


D4DE67BB-2366-4508-9D2F-50734467967D.jpeg
 
Today I fixed my wiper squirter. My wipers worked but my squirters did not. This narrowed it down pretty good for me. I pulled the motor and hooked some gator clamps up, worked fine. Must be the switch. Pulled my switch, pretty grody. Tore her apart, cleaned contacts and put new dielectric grease inside and out, on the roller ball and slings and on contact points. Also wire brushed the front most contact, on the spring, that attaches to the stand alone ground wire because that appears to be for the squirter. Worked like a charm, I’m cleaning bugs with the best of them. My hose was also dry rotten, I ordered some new hose from belmetric and had 6 foot of it at my doors in a few days for only a few dollars. I also ordered a few handfuls of the correct metric bullet connectors for future projects.
ECB50228-5DA5-420C-A123-1A30D7BECEF5.jpeg
97680EB3-5A5B-4E96-9E03-4D41710A884F.jpeg
F6FC757F-01A6-42E0-871B-4E3B5FBA2AFD.jpeg
ADD55E58-1587-4153-87E5-3BF2524AA98C.jpeg
647F7905-C780-46A7-95D4-E65C45EED4D8.jpeg
 
Rebuilt the center link today. Was pretty easy except getting the cap back on at the end, what a pain.

B3D9B2D6-68D1-4D3E-BBF5-D5E916B9D8D6.jpeg
03A4C743-ED57-4637-87B6-DB203412D93A.jpeg
68A50D29-1575-4066-889F-281F2BBA89A7.jpeg
01F9B27A-AB55-41BF-A8B4-3EAC4B2AF484.jpeg
 
Some random fixes on a Sunday. My bear brackets were missing some bolts, because several of the originals had been broken off. The fuel tank shield was deteriorating along the front bottom edge, I have a used mustard replacement in the mail. Pulled the old one and started drilling the broken m6 bolts that should have been holding it down. My evap seperator lines were dry rotted so I grab a few feet of fuel line and replaced them. Also threw some loom over my sending unit wire because I’m a classy bish.
DDCC2CFE-3063-4A0E-AA2D-411889D0031A.jpeg
BC9E4DEA-3E00-4009-A228-7443E17E7ABB.jpeg
48F8711D-04FF-4281-8A24-66BE425B8513.jpeg
CE774EBB-CBD1-4C28-AC39-14F1E734E297.jpeg
 
My HFS bumper finally showed up. In true CCOT fashion, there was only half the hardware needed to install. Also, my tack weld repair on the front driver turn signal didn’t last long, but the bullet and got a whole replacement lamp. Works fine now. Also finally found a replacement passenger side marker.
E6CC1847-B56A-4F13-B02F-F42B191A153A.jpeg
31C1EF79-827D-4BF8-A7A0-B7176D34450A.jpeg
E17E49F2-AFF0-401D-8D96-579E41AABE7F.jpeg
 
That is a nice setup. IMHO one of their better products. Looks really good against the “mustard”….

agreed. if i was being honest, id say its not very cash money of them to have it for sale on their webpage when they dont have any ready to sell. its not labelled as back ordered or out of stock, and they dont even make them. a fab shop makes them and then they send it off elsewhere for paint. took way too long to get this thing. the welds are pretty rough, lots of spatter and porosity around the bead. there was no clean up done on the welding before powder coat, BUT i will say this, its freakin cheap. would i expect this from a company is big as they are, no. but its worth the little bit you pay.
 
Needed the mounting hardware to slap my winch on. The 8274 required a square 7/16 course thread (or that is as designed rather) . Montanajacks sells a nut and bolt kit for like 50 bucks… not happening. Ace hardware had the nuts for .99 each. I grabbed those, some grade 8 1.5” bolts and some lock washers for around 10 bucks.
2013B330-D164-4113-8833-06DE1E2E5042.jpeg
 
Needed the mounting hardware to slap my winch on. The 8274 required a square 7/16 course thread (or that is as designed rather) . Montanajacks sells a nut and bolt kit for like 50 bucks… not happening. Ace hardware had the nuts for .99 each. I grabbed those, some grade 8 1.5” bolts and some lock washers for around 10 bucks.
View attachment 3005139

I’ve bought more nuts, bolts and sundry fasteners at Ace than I can shake a stick at….My go to.
 
Spent some quality time with my winch tonight. Got her mounted, cleaned up a little, and spooled a new cable on. I also had some new decals left over from a previous build. The date code is LP7, which if I’m correct, comes out to December 22, 1977.

04FC26C5-85EB-4F19-88A3-0BE835D6B551.jpeg
35B9507C-3FFE-43FA-9501-82F24D3EF40C.jpeg
4F023B5A-A290-4F8A-A2BD-EF3054B5A5EF.jpeg
6D7F528D-F7AE-4D09-AEB8-D7F952503C7B.jpeg
B218AA76-BB51-49B4-B4C8-D379EB300816.jpeg
 
I ran down a rabbit hole with a small repair and now I’m balls deep in a fuel system overhaul. I got a replacement fuel tank shield from the boys at classic cruisers. Went to install abs noticed the front m6 bolts were broken off in the holes. Needed to drill and tap, well they were too close to the tank so I pulled the tank. Noticed tank had some patch jobs on it, and there were bondo “patches” under the tank. Anyways, I now have a new fuel tank on hand and have run new 5/16 fuel line, and installed the grommet on the floor because mine wasn’t there. I am waiting on a few parts to show up and I have started on repairing the holes.

81F389CD-08D2-4DC0-A618-1468AA514B75.jpeg
8D964F42-47AF-4408-A7D6-3FDF0F28A5D5.jpeg
00502FFE-5830-462C-9D4E-CD785407936C.jpeg
41111554-2219-43D8-8F3B-19A1323DE999.jpeg
6EF29BC8-A4F9-4826-BA85-87857AB82FEF.jpeg
 
I’m by no means a body guy, but I know a little welding and grinding. So I took a stab today at repairing the rust I found under my tank.

974BD8B6-5AEC-4525-AC4C-29827EF9BC5B.jpeg
120DED5F-5766-4799-817A-DB08A712735D.jpeg
892D1BAE-3855-4D50-8FF4-2938FE8DBF1B.jpeg
 
Drilled and taped (m6x1) all the hardtop bolt holes and collected the right JIS bolts, this really feeds my JIS hardware hunger. Swapped some hose clamps on the rad with constant tension bands. Prepped new fuel tank.
9D5AF84C-72E6-4A89-85B1-97F0C8834439.jpeg
0A4166A2-5697-4F25-9F61-57E7CD25A312.jpeg
A7EBBF4E-C9C4-48D8-B411-AB73C08FEF1A.jpeg
A49EEB82-7C68-4CFB-B70C-E15A0ED75ED6.jpeg
 
Started swapping out my badges and emblems for new oem last night. Came across something strange. The Toyota emblem is not the same. The mount bolts are spaced wider on the new one than on my original.

995B60EE-80DD-4F2F-8925-26984658D87C.jpeg
 
Here’s some PN for anyone looking to order. Much cheaper from Toyota than SOR obviously.
FB2537CF-1740-4D5D-9A92-C51FD895272D.jpeg
1A825C4E-7DD3-4594-9B18-1DBC1BA3FDB7.jpeg
6251F4E6-097B-49A9-8732-DA161AE86436.jpeg
47D6D3A0-4FE5-49B6-A31A-FE8D2267CC87.jpeg
BFA6F713-AC9A-4991-9253-9C6F7101C5F9.jpeg
 
Got the fuel tank in, and every back together with new shiny JIS hardware.

7DC58243-3E33-4013-8565-AD138F48F419.jpeg
9650263F-80D0-400B-9DA8-07D45B17E3EE.jpeg
38FC54E6-0565-450B-9E3E-3B9361B747A0.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom