Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters (3 Viewers)

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191mV with IGN ON, light switch pulled out fully?
lights are dimming again with twisting the knob- AWESOME!
That’s not even a single volt. It appears you do not have enough power to illuminate the bulbs in your cluster. As you saw in my posted image, the RB wire was showing 11.69 Volts or 11,680 MV’s.
 
Red and blue wire at 4 is the only one with voltage with key on or off.
 
The LR (blue w/red stripe) should be north of 12Volts with key ON. Key OFF should be zero Volts.

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Also, very important to make sure the WB wire shown in image is connected to a solid grounding point near fuse panel. Typically one of the screws that secure the panel.
 
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Yes that striped wb wire to the left is grounded to chassis right behind fuse panel indeed. LR wire is hot IGN ON or OFF.
 
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I also have this GW wire coming from the new ignition harness that mates to nothing. Also note the LR wire next to the connector that goes to nothing. It’s hot. How is there no power to barrel/cluster via RB I WONDER......? Maybe a missing ground?

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I also have this GW wire coming from the new ignition harness that mates to nothing. Also note the LR wire next to the connector that goes to nothing. It’s hot. How is there no power to barrel/cluster via RB I WONDER......? Maybe a missing ground?

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That’s not your ignition harness, it’s your turn signal/dimmer assembly. As shown below. The GW wire is not to be connected.
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The LR wire is for your brake/seat belt warning light on a 1976. Image below.

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To be clear, this male connector connects to the female connector shown in other image above.
 
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Many thanks. I’ll post another pic shortly of some connectors I can’t figure out.
 
Problem solved. While working on the harness last night, my shop lights were so bright I was not able to see the dimmer light was actually on. Tested everything again this morning, step by step: continuity, volts, bulb, socket, ground. I must say, the light is very dim through the blue indicator lens. I must need to upgrade to the brighter LED bulbs. Images of light on and off below. I did read through the thread for an hour and learned a lot. This post is one of the most complete and detailed I’ve read on MUD. Many thanks to @bj40green.


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OFF
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ON Front
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OFF
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To demonstrate the difference between stock bulb vs LED for the hi beam indicator light. I’m posting this image.
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Mysteries. Main one is why is there no power to cluster via BR? Where does it come from to barrel connector? Gotta find Power source for it too.

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This thread will need to go beyond troubleshooting the cluster lights to sort out your harness...I’ll send you a PM and can try to address tomorrow. I have two harnesses on my operating table now that are OEM. Once you figure out why the cluster lights were not working, please post.
 
I just picked up a cluster which appears to be a 3rd generation cluster 83100-60170-A (have no idea what dash A is).

When cluster arrived, I unfortunately saw the copper circuit board strip has a break as shown. Has anyone developed a way to reattach the copper strip and blue coating in their cluster restoration? I know I can solder or attach jumper wire but wanted to see if there was another solution. Also, for the speed sensor black boot, does anyone have a source to replace the boot? Images below.

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Fantastic thread! I've browsed it before but it answered a quick gauge cluster question for me this morn!
 
Looks like a generic OEM boot. I have some new ones that might be the same. Want to give this one a try? If so, PM me and I'll send it your way.

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Appreciate you posting this but was able to find the boots. Still need the circuit board. Discovered that #83100-60072 is also the same pattern board as the one I’m searching for. Below image is of 83100-60072. Notice it matches my board.

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Image of my board: #83100-60170
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? on those dates. ‘65‘s have amp meters.
 

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