Krondor
SILVER Star
A whole lot of elbow grease, brake cleaner, and a wire brush.
Cleaning Tips for Trans/Transfer Case (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter germaneighter
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- Thread starter
- #22
I used various wire wheels on an air drill along with a putty knife and various cleaners. I brush painted the trans & bell housing with tractor paint.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
I've had enough of polishing by hand. Vapor blasting is the ticket.
jim land
SILVER Star
Freshly cleaned parts do look good , but the older I get , the more I like natural powder coating (cooked clay , dust and oil) it is a never ending battle to try keeping those parts looking like new
Damn hooter that IS some serious T-case porn you have there. Better keep that away from the kids.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
I wish I never came across this thread. Now I’ve got to do the same. Was hoping for better results after power washing.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Here is my 78 (bottom link in signature line)
after power washing
Disassembled
I scrubbed for hours and used mineral spirits and thinner on the tough spots, then 2k alumablast.
Rebuilt
Installed
after power washing
Disassembled
I scrubbed for hours and used mineral spirits and thinner on the tough spots, then 2k alumablast.
Rebuilt
Installed
Chisel
Wire brush and wheel
Mean green
Beer
Tunes
About two hours
Wire brush and wheel
Mean green
Beer
Tunes
About two hours
I used brass brushes to clean most of the case. I had a hard time in the corners (like tar) and couldn't find anything that was stiff enough without scratching. So I used aluminum tig welding rod. I could cut it to the size I needed and used a hammer to make a chisel point or sharp point. Bend it to fit where you need it.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Looks great. Where did you get the yellow zinc hardware? Overland Metric?
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Yes overland metric, gold cad. Great kit!
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Did they have a cadmium kit specifically for the one piece transfer rebuild? Also, since you just went through your case, about how long did it take you to assemble it?
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Hi there! I ended up purchasing the kit.
As far as time and complexity, I used the FSM and it took a week of me tinkering and ordering parts.
Probably 30 hours total. Ill Refer you to my build on it here:
forum.ih8mud.com
As far as time and complexity, I used the FSM and it took a week of me tinkering and ordering parts.
Probably 30 hours total. Ill Refer you to my build on it here:
Builds - 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
I apologize for the terrible photo - the cruiser is incredible difficult to move by myself and the lighting in my horrible garage is garbage, but this shows the installed side cover (oh, and the new motor mounts and hardware): Well, next is the shameful grime-ball lurking in the corner of my...
forum.ih8mud.com
John McVicker
SILVER Star
@dmaddox this is perfect. I just bookmarked your build thread...in particular pages 18 & 19. Recently received my trany/t case kit from CruiserOutfitters.
My plan is to drop both and hopefully not rebuild but only reseal in order to address the leaks. This thread, as well as yours will be my guide...well and the fsm
.
My plan is to drop both and hopefully not rebuild but only reseal in order to address the leaks. This thread, as well as yours will be my guide...well and the fsm
.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Hi there! I ended up purchasing the kit.
As far as time and complexity, I used the FSM and it took a week of me tinkering and ordering parts.
Probably 30 hours total. Ill Refer you to my build on it here:
forum.ih8mud.com
[/QUOTE]
Thank you. Amazing work on your truck. When you look up the word ‘Tenacity’ on Dictionary.com there should be a link to your MUD build page. I can relate after buying my truck at auction and redoing all electrical among other things. I’ve not updated it in a while but here is link.
I’ve made cleaning progress and on the fence with taking this fully apart. The bearings, gears and seals all looked good. Anyone think I can get away with just cleaning, polishing and replacing gaskets/seals?
As far as time and complexity, I used the FSM and it took a week of me tinkering and ordering parts.
Probably 30 hours total. Ill Refer you to my build on it here:
Builds - 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
I apologize for the terrible photo - the cruiser is incredible difficult to move by myself and the lighting in my horrible garage is garbage, but this shows the installed side cover (oh, and the new motor mounts and hardware): Well, next is the shameful grime-ball lurking in the corner of my...
forum.ih8mud.com
Thank you. Amazing work on your truck. When you look up the word ‘Tenacity’ on Dictionary.com there should be a link to your MUD build page. I can relate after buying my truck at auction and redoing all electrical among other things. I’ve not updated it in a while but here is link.
I’ve made cleaning progress and on the fence with taking this fully apart. The bearings, gears and seals all looked good. Anyone think I can get away with just cleaning, polishing and replacing gaskets/seals?
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Great work to both of you guys. If it spins well, absolutely smooth, just re-seal and run with it. Its not rocket science to pull back out and re-do it as needed.
I'll also add, that the output shaft is a bit of a pain to center and work with - so if you don't have to dig in there, just let the beast lay. Seal it up, new gaskets, and off you go.
I'll also add, that the output shaft is a bit of a pain to center and work with - so if you don't have to dig in there, just let the beast lay. Seal it up, new gaskets, and off you go.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
This is very time consuming. Wish I had a vapor blaster. Finding a dental pick, citrus Gunk degreaser, steel wool, brass wheels on Dremel, Dawn, warm water, scotch pads to be restoring the case.
The rust removal on the ebrake drum and associated parts are taking a lot of time. If anyone can recommend a trusted rust converter application please let me know.
The rust removal on the ebrake drum and associated parts are taking a lot of time. If anyone can recommend a trusted rust converter application please let me know.
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dmaddox
SILVER Star
Man I’m laughing WITH you on this one. I even tried a steam cleaner on mine, it was a fail. Lacquer thinner and a toothbrush did wonders, but don’t let it get into seals and gaskets.
it was easierfor me because I fully disassembled.
it was easierfor me because I fully disassembled.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
I know, right? It’s mindless slow going work unless you completely disassemble and drop into a degreasing bath then into a blasting cabinet. The only thing I did not try is lacquer thinner. The good news is I’m at the polishing stage as all grease, dirt, tar, oil etc.. is out of every nook and cranny.
For those looking to replace all bolts with yellow cadmium from Overland Metric @davework. I’ve contacted them and will be providing specific bolt measurements so they can produce a transfer case bolt kit in future. Since the official MUD standard of tcase restoration aesthetics have been set in this thread.
Also, for the rusted brake drum parts, I’m going to try Evapo-Rust and will provide after pics.
For those looking to replace all bolts with yellow cadmium from Overland Metric @davework. I’ve contacted them and will be providing specific bolt measurements so they can produce a transfer case bolt kit in future. Since the official MUD standard of tcase restoration aesthetics have been set in this thread.
Also, for the rusted brake drum parts, I’m going to try Evapo-Rust and will provide after pics.
I will play, but I don’t have any secrets. Simple green, some heavy duty aluminum wheel cleaner, and LOTS of scrapers and wire brushes. In the end I wound up giving it a coat of aluminum paint though if I do it again I might try to just find a clear coat that holds up.
