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Thanks for the link to the latch. One more thing to add to the list
 
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Somehowe I knew you where going to say that.:rolleyes:

Have you got a plan for the tank yet?[/QUOT

Yap! Basic cube 25 x 20. X 8/9 (depending on the sending unit). Sump, baffles, pick up, return, vent, drain plug and a capacity just over 17 gal. I think I have it figured that I'll be able to use the stock filler assy. Will be supporter by 4 bolts similar to that of a shock where the bolt will go through a bracket, mounted off the upper, rear shock mount and the wrap bar x member. Gonna do a mock up out of cardboard this weekend and see if I'm missing anything. Probably gonna use a heavier ga. Steel for welding purposes to minimize burn through.

Sound like a plan?? :)

It does, are you going to weld the outside corners or have the sides fall inside and weld an inside seam?
 
Lots done...
Mocked up the tank out of card board. Had to scale it down a bit so I lost some MORE fuel capacity. Ill now only have about 16.5 gal. of fuel...just about what the stock tank was. Que sera. That is the compromise for a purpose built rig I suppose. At least its NOT behind the seats or in the cab eating up more precious cargo area. The final dimensions were 25x19x8. Looks tight, but I jacked up the rear axle each side and nothing comes close to hitting. Ill also be limiting the up travel as well w/ bump stops, so it should be good. Also, there is a nice open channel for the exhaust to run on the DS frame rail.
Dropped off the dimensions to have the tank formed...should be done by Wed.
Helped Rustydan a little with his trans install
welded on the license plate mount
cut apart and re shaped the brake pedal for clearance around the GM tilt column. Most BEND it, but...my vice is not the most SOLID, so...cutting was about the only option for me. Came out pretty good, actually.
Then...another SEEMINGLY big success so far...I grabbed an FJ60 e brake assembly when I pulled the rear axle, so I hooked it up at the rear and ran it up to the cab. Found that I could, THEORETICALLY, mount it to the trans tunnel RIGHT NEXT to the trans shifter!!!!:bounce::bounce2: Got that marked out. Just gotta cut the hole out and see how it works. IF it works, that to me would be an ideal spot for it.

Moving right along now.
 
How did you attach the e brake cable to the housing. Granted I have never seen how the assembly attached but yesterday I started on the wrap bar and had to cut of the bracket (i think that holds the ebrake cable to) to make room for the wrap bar mount. Got any pics
 
Late birthday dinner tonight with the family, goin to Texas Roadhouse and gonna have me a nice big red juicy steak!







Random post of the week.

p.s. post pictures so we have something to look at. And not ones of you...
 
in a roll it keeps your radiator from being damaged.

When I rolled mine it actually went over onto the roof and onto the stinger before settling back on its side. I thought I had the video of it but I guess my friend still has it. You can see on the hood where the hood was pushed in on the side right behind the hood pin from the roll, damage would have been alot worse with no stinger.

I have also used mine to get up onto ledges that otherwise I wound have risked the radiator. Like on a steep nearly straight up dirt or possibly even rock wall / ledge (mine was dirt I used it on) I just stuck the truck up against the wall with the stinger real gently then went into gear and it picked up the front just enough for the front tires to be able to get a bite and pull the rest of the truck up. It didnt like pull it off the ground or anything but it did let the suspension sag about 3-4 inches to gain enough clearance. worked like a charm.

and when she was mine I used it as a front wheelie bar a few times and it keeped me from going over .... the new rig will get one fooshoo :hillbilly:
 
How did you attach the e brake cable to the housing. Granted I have never seen how the assembly attached but yesterday I started on the wrap bar and had to cut of the bracket (i think that holds the ebrake cable to) to make room for the wrap bar mount. Got any pics

There's are TWO tabs on the housing. One is on the TOP kind of in toward the diff, the other is on the back side of the housing. The one on the top I cut off for the wrap bar as you describe, I kept the other one on the back in its place. The cables that pull the drums attach to that. The main PULL cable attached to the top of the housing. Ill have to find a way to secure that somewhere.
Ill get some pics a bit later. Didnt have time to take any today.
 
Late birthday dinner tonight with the family, goin to Texas Roadhouse and gonna have me a nice big red juicy steak!







Random post of the week.

p.s. post pictures so we have something to look at. And not ones of you...

Eat UP!!!!! Nothing like a steak!

Here's some pics.:flipoff2:
001 (2).webp
002 (2).webp
005 (4).webp
 
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wont you hit that if you jump it ??
 
Dude my welder and stand look EXACTLY like that. I have a Hobart Handler 187 sitting on a stand that looks identical to yours. Guess I should go check the garage and make sure you didnt steal it! LOL.

And yea I'm with Joel, The tank probaly looks closer than it really is but I would run some hard bump stops just in case. It may not hit flexing but when both sides go up equally looks like the trac bar could hit it. Either by a jump, roll, or even just a hard drop off of the rear maybe even a good bounce.
 
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wont you hit that if you jump it ??

First...there WILL BE NO JUMPING!!! The ONLY way that there will be an abrupt landing where both tires land at the same time is if I drop off a ledge. Now...with that being the case...Ill definitely be running some bump stops to limit the up travel in any event.

What are you doing to get gas in the tank. Hole in the floor ?

Yeup...Ill actually be able to use the stock filler. Ill stub up a piece of 2 in off the tank, through the floor behind the pass. seat and run it up to the stock filler assembly.

Dude my welder and stand look EXACTLY like that. I have a Hobart Handler 187 sitting on a stand that looks identical to yours. Guess I should go check the garage and make sure you didnt steal it! LOL.

And yea I'm with Joel, The tank probaly looks closer than it really is but I would run some hard bump stops just in case. It may not hit flexing but when both sides go up equally looks like the trac bar could hit it. Either by a jump, roll, or even just a hard drop off of the rear maybe even a good bounce.

Definitely! Totally agree!
Like I said...there are compromises that NEEDED to be made and a roll of the dice on some of those. Ill admit...its not ideal. However, there is NO WHERE else for me to run it. Worst case if this does not pan out...Ill have to build one for behind the seats. That IMO is not a great option either and comes with its own hazards.
Till its running though, I cant defend it. Im just gonna have to see what happens.
 
No I got ya, I think that is a similar if not the same location as the later model 40's have the tank mounted.
 
How about raising the floor a little, you will be able to notch the tank up and even make it bigger with maybe a raised section above the track bar.:hhmm:

You don't have the original gastank (inside the cab) to consider so you could straiten out the floor up to the front seats.
 
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If the track bar is an issue, you could always make one like JK Customs to gain a little more clearance:
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bruce_005.webp
 
How about raising the floor a little, you will be able to notch the tank up and even make it bigger with maybe a raised section above the track bar.:hhmm:


You don't have the original gastank (inside the cab) to consider so you could straiten out the floor up to the front seats.

BWAAAAAAHAAAAAAHAAAAHAAAAA!:lol::lol::lol:
NOOOO EFFFING WAY!!!!!!!!:D
I am DONE with that kind of sheet metal work on THIS rig!


If the track bar is an issue, you could always make one like JK Customs to gain a little more clearance:

That is not a bad idea. I COULD also cut the brackets for the wrap bar and pitch it more level if need be.
Im pretty confident that it'll be okay though. If you look at the pic...the mock tank in relation to the springs, its quite a bit higher. Now look at the wrap bar...NOT the bracket for the wrap bar, but the wrap bar itself. The spring would ALMOST have to go into a negative arch for it to hit. If I build the bumps LOWER than the level of the wrap bar, theoretically I shouldnt have an issue...
Either way...its running the way it is. If it works...awesome, if not...more work to do. Not a stranger to that!:hillbilly::wrench:
It was also pointed out on the ROCKGODS board...Id probably be more likely to have a drive shaft issue in the event of catastrophic failure of it.... That would be NO BUENO! As pointed out above by cruisin...the late model FJ40's had the tank in the same location.
May upgrade the shaft and have one built like the one for the front.
 
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