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All the way back is the drive position,I almost guarantee you are not engaging the syncro all the way,just pull the heim and move the 203 arm all the way back,and see if your heim will reach,if not,either play with the length of the rod,or the pivot point needs to be raised .:beer:
 
chicago said:
So I am clear.... I move the linkage point on the lever arm UP (vertically), to shorten the throw??
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Yes. Move your linkage mount on the shift lever up (further away from the fulcrum point) to shorten the throw on the shift lever which in turn will allow the tcase lever to travel further to get more engagement for H.

Now to add some more confusion. The direction the tcase lever (and shift lever for that matter) travels is not in a straight line; they travel in an arc. It's possible these arcs don't match up or are too small and are binding not allowing full travel of the levers and not allowing enough engagement. Ultimately you may need to lengthen the tcase lever along with raising the mounting point on the shift lever. The further away from the fulcrum, the more the arc will flatten out so that it travels in a straighter path. Detaching the linkage and operating it manually will help give you a better idea of how those mounting points are working together. Hopefully all you need is one adjustment on the shift lever and all will be good. Just throwing out more in case the first fix doesn't cut it.
 
Sorry I'm a little too late, but want it to express my happiness to your achievement

Checked the video put, and I'm sure it was a great feeling.
See you at the rubithon in 2013
:cheers:
Daniel
 
dr_dobro said:
Sorry I'm a little too late, but want it to express my happiness to your achievement

Checked the video put, and I'm sure it was a great feeling.
See you at the rubithon in 2013
:cheers:
Daniel
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Thanks Daniel!
I appreciate that! I'll probably be there for rubithon even though it my anniversary weekend... The wife said that'd be okay, so...
 
I d/c'd the linkage and tried to manually shift it. It's just NOT fully engaging the high gear inside the box. Tried numerous times, and as soon as I engage any of the trans gears... Pops right out with no way to stop it. So, I'll have to look inside the box.
Been so long since I've been in that thing, I forget how that all works.
I did stick it in DOUBLE LOW and 1st on the tranny .....NIIIIZZZE!!!! :) soooper stoked to try that out!!!
 
At least you are looking on the bright side ;)

And, cause I did not see the answer anywhere else, you should have ATF in the tailshaft adapter for the tranny (between the tranny and the 203). That's why the 203 has that nice input seal on it :)
 
rusty_tlc said:
I cut a couple of pieces of angle iron and drilled a hole in the center so you can attached them to the hub. It just makes it easier to use the tape measure. Kind of stupid but what can I say, I was killing time waiting for the paint to dry on my tie rod drag link after I replaced the TRE's.

The screw heads are set up for 28" and 33", the angle iron is 36" long total
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We had some plywood L shaped things with pins that touched the edge of the wheels we uses on the race cars but that is a neat idea rusty accurate and simple.
 
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Before you pull it apart try rocking the truck back and forth while trying to engage high you may be just a little off on the sincro. With it not moving a little it may not want to go in my 205 was that way after I rebuilt it after it moved it was fine..
 
Mace said:
At least you are looking on the bright side ;)

And, cause I did not see the answer anywhere else, you should have ATF in the tailshaft adapter for the tranny (between the tranny and the 203). That's why the 203 has that nice input seal on it :)
Click to expand...

Thanks mace!
So if I separate the t case from the trans, will all the trans fluid run out!?
I'm not remembering that I put and gasket maker in that???
 
RAYJON said:
Before you pull it apart try rocking the truck back and forth while trying to engage high you may be just a little off on the sincro. With it not moving a little it may not want to go in my 205 was that way after I rebuilt it after it moved it was fine..
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I give it a shot!!! That's easy enough to do!!
 
Although.... I'm still gonna have to pull that bitch!!!! That leak will kill me if I leave it go! Its gonna be a mo fo to get out too. I think I'm gonna have to drop the back end of the drive train to clear the floor pan to back the t cases out. s***!
I didn't make any provisions for getting that out easier. Didn't even think about it.
 
chicago said:
So if I separate the t case from the trans, will all the trans fluid run out!?
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There will be a little that comes out but that's whatever pools in whatever pockets are there. The majority of the fluid is in the tranny pan so you're really not going to lose any fluid.
 
chicago said:
I think I'm gonna have to drop the back end of the drive train to clear the floor pan to back the t cases out. s***!
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I feel your pain. My new Orion is back down at Mark's and my rig is in the driveway with a big hole in the floor and drive shafts hanging down to the ground. It was no fun to get out and I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to pull the tranny, put them together and install as a (very heavy) unit.
 
It looks like by now things can only get better (I hope).
This is for good luck.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
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Meh... The way I look at... It's better to address this now as opposed to later. I tell ya though, the leaks are what bother me more than anything now that I know the trans is okay. As long as I DON'T have to split the 19 spline.... I'm doing okay!
 
Get this crap squared away now so I can FUGGIN WHEEL this summer!!!!! :):):)
There's the brass ring!
At least this is all kinda minor stuff so far
 
Very smart to do it now while it is clean underneath no dirt to fall in your face. I hate oil leaks as well and it is wise to do now while you can.

chicago said:
Meh... The way I look at... It's better to address this now as opposed to later. I tell ya though, the leaks are what bother me more than anything now that I know the trans is okay. As long as I DON'T have to split the 19 spline.... I'm doing okay!
Click to expand...
 
So tried rocking the rig back and forth as rayjon suggested. At first, it wasn't really doing anything to help my situation. So I drained the oil and looked inside the case. As expected, the shift collar isn't seating in the high position all the way.
So I kicked her into low to determine exactly where low is. Then neutral and then tried to get her into high. I was able to rock her into high. I did it quite a few times, but it's a bitch. Tried firing her up and attempted to do it while she was running... NOPE!
One thing I did wanna do was drive her in normal driving conditions. So I buttoned the case up, threw a bit of oil in and drove around for about 20 min up and down the main drag in by our house to get a feel for it. Opened her up a bit and got on the gas. Very nice. Handles surprisingly well. Didn't notice the front end wobble this time around either.
Anyway. Here are a couple pics of the inside of the case and the shift positions.

First pic is in low gear
2nd is where it's sticking going in high
Last is where it should be seating.
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Oooops....
First pic is the attempted high gear
Second is low
3rd is true high gear
 
chicago said:
Oooops....
First pic is the attempted high gear
Second is low
3rd is true high gear
Click to expand...

Does it shift now or is it still resisting to go into high?
 
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