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rusty_tlc said:
Let me know if you want to borrow my hillbilly alignment tool, I did the 60 then paid a shop to do it and I was dead nuts on with the home brew method.
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I did the same home alignment job and took it to the shop to have the same results meaning I too had it right on. This is as good as a shop will get so I second the home alignment on these rigs. The only benefit I see in going to the shop is to see where the other numbers (caster/camber) ended up from playing with a cut-n-turn. My question for you Rusty is do you run the same difference (typical toe in: 1/8-1/4") on a smaller tire as a larger tire or do you add a little more the bigger the tire gets? The same number on a bigger tire would mean less toe in since the measurement is taken further from the center.


Keith, I too am throwing my lot in with the 203 not getting in gear. I know that whining sound you are talking about and that happens when I trying to shift the 203 in certain circumstances. I bet it's fine inside, it just needs more throw. The 203 will have three positions, H-N-L.
 
@boots4;I set my 33's at 1/8 which seems to track well. I set the 36" TSL's at 1/4. Hard to tell how that will work out because they are so far out of round the truck has baaaaad death wobble.
 
boots4 said:
I did the same home alignment job and took it to the shop to have the same results meaning I too had it right on. This is as good as a shop will get so I second the home alignment on these rigs. The only benefit I see in going to the shop is to see where the other numbers (caster/camber) ended up from playing with a cut-n-turn. My question for you Rusty is do you run the same difference (typical toe in: 1/8-1/4") on a smaller tire as a larger tire or do you add a little more the bigger the tire gets? The same number on a bigger tire would mean less toe in since the measurement is taken further from the center.

Keith, I too am throwing my lot in with the 203 not getting in gear. I know that whining sound you are talking about and that happens when I trying to shift the 203 in certain circumstances. I bet it's fine inside, it just needs more throw. The 203 will have three positions, H-N-L.
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Crap man... I completely forgot that you had the same t case set up. It's been so long since I was in that thing, I don't recall how the shift fork runs???
So could you describe the process to shifting these things that you go through?
Mace also said that his was hard to shift too.
 
The splitcase I can typically go from 2 to 4wd on the fly at slow speeds. For splitcase low I stop completely but still in drive and can usually go into low. For 203 low or back into high I need to stop and put it in park before shifting. Sometimes if 203 starts to grind I'll turn off the engine to shift. I'd like to hear what others with the combo do to shift too. I imagine it's more finicky behind an auto. For the most part I use the splitcase low before I use 203 low.
 
boots4 said:
The splitcase I can typically go from 2 to 4wd on the fly at slow speeds. For splitcase low I stop completely but still in drive and can usually go into low. For 203 low or back into high I need to stop and put it in park before shifting. Sometimes if 203 starts to grind I'll turn off the engine to shift. I'd like to hear what others with the combo do to shift too. I imagine it's more finicky behind an auto. For the most part I use the splitcase low before I use 203 low.
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Aaaaah, so it is as I thought...
Georg said that at first I will likely need to shut the motor down to shift the 203 and keep playing w it till I find how it will shift easiest. I too plan in split case then the 203 for the heavy work.

Thanks man!
 
So effe'd with it again tonight for a bit... So the 203 in high range pops out immediately when I hit driving gears on the trans.
More adventure!!!
 
orangefj45 said:
Try dis-connecting the linkage and shift it into high manually. Try it again.

If it still pops out, the pull the PTO cover and see what's going on in there.

Georg
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I can do that.
I'm in for the night, so that'll be the first thing I do tomorrow.
It doesn't feel like it's a real positive seat into high. Hopefully I'm just not getting the full throw back into the high gear.
Do you recall if there was any sort of adjustment?
 
orangefj45 said:
Still waiting for you to post a pic of your linkage. My "I can see everything glasses" are at the repair shop!:flipoff2:

Jk. Post a pic bro.

Georg
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Sorry man! Here they are.
The last one is of the under side of the of the 203 where that plug bolt is. Not sure what it is...
003 (3).webp
004 (3).webp
005 (3).webp
 
BTW...
Is there SUPPOSED to be trans fluid in the tail shaft, or do I have a bad seal there?
My guess would be NO.:confused:
 
orangefj45 said:
Looks like you might want to move the 203grb shifter fulcrum/linkage attachment point up a little on the lever so it requires less throw to shift the grb.

Try unbolting the linkage and go from there.

Georg
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The lever itself, or the fulcrum on the 203 itself? Easier would be to add an extension on the 203 lever deal...

Will do!
Thanks brother!
 
If you want to shorten the throw for the 203 shifter, the you either need to shorten the distance between the pivot and linkage attachment point on the tc lever ( on the case ) or lengthen the distance on the shift lever.

Be more specific about the "tail housing" and ATF. What are we talking about?
 
i have a 203.205 combo and the 203 requires alot of throw,or it will pop out,and I set up my shift arm pivot 0n a 3/4 bolt with a big nylock nut to be able to adjust the force required to shift it. It works fine but I always have thought the 203 syncro to be finicky...hth
 
orangefj45 said:
If you want to shorten the throw for the 203 shifter, the you either need to shorten the distance between the pivot and linkage attachment point on the tc lever ( on the case ) or lengthen the distance on the shift lever.

Be more specific about the "tail housing" and ATF. What are we talking about?
Click to expand...

So I am clear.... I move the linkage point on the lever arm UP (vertically), to shorten the throw??
I guess the easiest way to describe where the questionable trans fluid is, is the AA tail shaft housing, where the VSS is and the tail shaft for the trans is. Right where the face of the 203 mates to the transmission. It's leaking from behind the 203/ trans adapter plate.
 
whitey45 said:
i have a 203.205 combo and the 203 requires alot of throw,or it will pop out,and I set up my shift arm pivot 0n a 3/4 bolt with a big nylock nut to be able to adjust the force required to shift it. It works fine but I always have thought the 203 syncro to be finicky...hth
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Whitey,
Can you snap a pic of how you did that?
It sounds like you replaced the 203 shift mechanism with a 3/4 in bolt?
 
Like georg said, disconnect the heim at the 203 arm and manually shift it. Then you can confirm how much you need to adjust your pivot point. The bolt I was talking about is similar to yours with the nylock holding all your shift arms. It looks like you need more throw just looking at your first photo.
 
whitey45 said:
Like georg said, disconnect the heim at the 203 arm and manually shift it. Then you can confirm how much you need to adjust your pivot point. The bolt I was talking about is similar to yours with the nylock holding all your shift arms. It looks like you need more throw just looking at your first photo.
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More throw off of the actual 203 case lever mechanism???
I hope that is all it is.
 
Btw, in the first pic, the 203 is in LOW range, where I can actually drive the rig and shift the trans. The high is moving the lever back. I aligned the levers in drive position.
Damn... Wish I didn't have to work today!!!
 
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