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orangefj45 said:
Post a pic of it in neutral.

That might help.
Click to expand...

What would you be looking for w/ that?
I did look at it when in neutral, and the teeth on either end ( high or low) do NOT line up, but that would sort of make sense, right??
 
Yeah Georg,
You can see the Mis alignment in the pic in both high and low. It goes off by about a half a tooth either direction.
 
fj4play said:
sounds like you have a worn shift fork
Click to expand...

Why do you think that?
How does that work when a shift fork is worn?
 
its been awhile since I've had my 203 half apart but is it possible that the shift fork is backwards? I can't remember specifically if that fork is biased or not but for some reason it sticks out in my head. Hopefully someone else can confirm if this is possible or not.
 
brokenparts said:
its been awhile since I've had my 203 half apart but is it possible that the shift fork is backwards? I can't remember specifically if that fork is biased or not but for some reason it sticks out in my head. Hopefully someone else can confirm if this is possible or not.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the thought on this... I don't recall ever removing it, so I don't think that it had been removed prior to that either.
I did read a post while googling this topic. Seems as though, there is a spring that retains the shifter in position. Its that bolt under the shift mechanism that I was asking about that houses the spring. I'm wondering if it could be that??
 
chicago said:
Thanks for the thought on this... I don't recall ever removing it, so I don't think that it had been removed prior to that either.
I did read a post while googling this topic. Seems as though, there is a spring that retains the shifter in position. Its that bolt under the shift mechanism that I was asking about that houses the spring. I'm wondering if it could be that??
Click to expand...

Yeah, that also cleaned out a cob web out of my head... I remember that spring being a real pain in the ass when I changed out the front input on my 203. The other thing that sticks out in my head was a tiny "locating pin" that was necessary on the mainshaft.

Sorry, not sure any of that is relevant but hoping that it might spark someone's elses thoughts. The spring/detent sounds like a likely scenario though. If that is not set up right it would pop right out of gear. I know that on my old Marlin box I had to get a stiffer detent spring because it would pop out of gear under a load.
 
brokenparts said:
Yeah, that also cleaned out a cob web out of my head... I remember that spring being a real pain in the ass when I changed out the front input on my 203. The other thing that sticks out in my head was a tiny "locating pin" that was necessary on the mainshaft.

Sorry, not sure any of that is relevant but hoping that it might spark someone's elses thoughts. The spring/detent sounds like a likely scenario though. If that is not set up right it would pop right out of gear. I know that on my old Marlin box I had to get a stiffer detent spring because it would pop out of gear under a load.
Click to expand...

Yeah...
That was kinda what I was thinking. Presumably, most 4wd trucks in the US hardly ever see 4wd..
I am wondering if because of that, the spring could be worn to where there is not enough tension to move it back on to the high gear and keep it there. Its worth a shot. How much could a spring like that be?
As I understand it, all I would need to do is pull that plug and swap out the spring.
 
The spring detent should never be the only thing holding it in gear. these are straight cut gears, not helical cut gears.
 
chicago said:
Yeah...
That was kinda what I was thinking. Presumably, most 4wd trucks in the US hardly ever see 4wd..
I am wondering if because of that, the spring could be worn to where there is not enough tension to move it back on to the high gear and keep it there. Its worth a shot. How much could a spring like that be?
As I understand it, all I would need to do is pull that plug and swap out the spring.
Click to expand...

If I understand corectly you have put it in gear manualy and drove it arround like that. The way I see it it somehowe is not engaging fully in high gear when you shift it. So either it is blocked to a certain level or the mechanism that slides it in place is not able to do so. I would think it is the fork not being able to reach far enough or the mechanism outside the box needs a larger throw. Correct me if I am wrong.
 
Mace said:
The spring detent should never be the only thing holding it in gear. these are straight cut gears, not helical cut gears.
Click to expand...

I'm HOPING!!! Thanks for PiSSING on my PARADE!!! Dick!! :)
 
waiting for time said:
If I understand corectly you have put it in gear manualy and drove it arround like that. The way I see it it somehowe is not engaging fully in high gear when you shift it. So either it is blocked to a certain level or the mechanism that slides it in place is not able to do so. I would think it is the fork not being able to reach far enough or the mechanism outside the box needs a larger throw. Correct me if I am wrong.
Click to expand...

Well... Yes. I was able to engage it by rocking it back and forth, but unable to engage it with the rig running. It sort of sits in between, right on the verge of going into gear.
Explain the throw to me, cuz I'm missing something on that....
It almost seems like there is something that could be adjusted. That was why I got a bit excited about the spring. Not that it holds it in place, but conceivably, if the spring were weak, the shift collar could fall out of spec and make shifting into gear difficult.
Obviously, it stays in gear once it's in, its just getting it in.
Ive just Gotta call one of the 203 double companies and ask them I suppose.
 
chicago said:
Well... Yes. I was able to engage it by rocking it back and forth, but unable to engage it with the rig running. It sort of sits in between, right on the verge of going into gear.
Explain the throw to me, cuz I'm missing something on that....
It almost seems like there is something that could be adjusted. That was why I got a bit excited about the spring. Not that it holds it in place, but conceivably, if the spring were weak, the shift collar could fall out of spec and make shifting into gear difficult.
Obviously, it stays in gear once it's in, its just getting it in.
Ive just Gotta call one of the 203 double companies and ask them I suppose.
Click to expand...

Well you have to separate a few things here. There is a mechanism that slides the gear into place, one that keeps it in place and one that holds the fork in place. You have to see them as different mechanisms. The fork has its own mechanism because it must not drag against the collar when the gears are running. Its only purpose is to change gear. When it engages all the time when the gears are running the fork will wear and as a result it won't be able to shift the gears fully, like you have now, or even lose its fingers. This is why in a manual gearbox it is not wise to keep your hand on the shift lever while driving. The spring, with a ball of some kind, will keep the fork in the middle of the collar in one of the three positions, high, low or neutral. Then there is the mechanism that moves the fork, which is mostly on the outside of the box. Basicaly your shift lever, connecting rod and the shaft it connects to. If the distance the lever can travel, throw, isn't long enough you won't be able to shift it in gear. You need to realize that it has to be shifted further than the distance between the 3 points. If you shift your lever will come back after engaging the gear due to play in the mechanism and the fork comming to its resting place in the collar. If your lever is not able to travel far enough it will not engage fully, meaning it will not lock in gear. Then there is the actual locking system in the gear itself. This basicaly locks the gear when fully engaged. If this is worn you could experiance difficulty getting it in but most of the time it poppes out of gear when fully engaged. I don't know which particular system is used here but the way I see it your problem is getting it fully in gear so you should look at the first 2. When you have the cover off can you shift it in gear by shifting to high and then pushing it in fully through the cover, actualy pushing the gear? If so how easy is that?

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
The one time I rode with Jeff he put the trans in park to shift his 203 into low gear :meh:

sent from outer space via my mind
 
I don't know if there is a syncronising mechanism in the gears. This is used to get the speed of the two gears to the same level before engaging and then locking. But this already past when the gears start to engage. The way it looks in your situation is that the gears allready engage but just don't fully settle into place.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
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