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kling-on said:
Yup had a great time too ... But I forgot how stressfull it is to wheel your DD :lol:
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OOOOOH yeah...
Up here was the FJ45 run (hosted by Orangefj45/ Georg) I thought for a brief second about takin my tacoma in from the "easy" side, but...opted against it. Probably would have been okay, but...didnt really wanna find out the hard way that I SHOULDNT have with my DD Im still making payments on.:eek: Ill be there in FINE STYLE next year in an appropriate rig.:steer::bounce::steer::bounce2:
 
Like it was said above I would run 2 switches in parallel off the shift handles, would make the mount off the trans tunnel or shifter brackets.

Could also split the ground to trip a light on the dash so that you know when you are in low (or moreover you know the trans is going to be shifting correctly), if anything ever broke on the trail all you have to do is get the light lit by grounding out one of the leads and you are set for wheeling...

In the mean time you would just have a wire to ground when wheeling (fairly simple, get under the truck and screw in an eyelet), for me I don't like extraneous switches on the dash. Even though its more work to hide it on the shifters...
 
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Boing said:
Like it was said above I would run 2 switches in parallel off the shift handles, would make the mount off the trans tunnel or shifter brackets.

Could also split the ground to trip a light on the dash so that you know when you are in low (or moreover you know the trans is going to be shifting correctly), if anything ever broke on the trail all you have to do is get the light lit by grounding out one of the leads and you are set for wheeling...

In the mean time you would just have a wire to ground when wheeling (fairly simple, get under the truck and screw in an eyelet), for me I don't like extraneous switches on the dash. Even though its more work to hide it on the shifters...
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What switch would you run? All I can find are these plastic jobbers that I just don't think would hold up all that well.
What amp switch would I need?
Seems that it would be a bit better if it were a reverse switch... What I mean by that, is that its IN ACTIVE on the back side of the shift handle when in normal driving and the switch is depressed. Once the low shift lever is move (forward in my set up) then it triggers the 4low signal.
Really though, I think I'll have enough gearing options between the trans and split case and only use the 203 when crawling/ DEEP gears are required.
I'm thinking about it, but.... Still thinking a switch on the dash would be more reliable long term.
 
You won't need to switch much current, all you are doing it sending a signal to the ECU.

You need a NO SPST (Normally Open, Single Pole Single Throw) switch.

If you go with a dash switch I would highly recommend a lit one. It saves having to mount an extra LED or light someplace.
 
chicago said:
What switch would you run? All I can find are these plastic jobbers that I just don't think would hold up all that well.
What amp switch would I need?
Seems that it would be a bit better if it were a reverse switch... What I mean by that, is that its IN ACTIVE on the back side of the shift handle when in normal driving and the switch is depressed. Once the low shift lever is move (forward in my set up) then it triggers the 4low signal.
Really though, I think I'll have enough gearing options between the trans and split case and only use the 203 when crawling/ DEEP gears are required.
I'm thinking about it, but.... Still thinking a switch on the dash would be more reliable long term.
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It doesn't matter what type of switch, you can use 2 brakepedal switches from the scrapyard and reverse them with a relay. Just switch when in low.
 
rusty_tlc said:
You won't need to switch much current, all you are doing it sending a signal to the ECU.

You need a NO SPST (Normally Open, Single Pole Single Throw) switch.

If you go with a dash switch I would highly recommend a lit one. It saves having to mount an extra LED or light someplace.
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Agreed on the lit dash switch. Kragen had some I was looking at when I was there this weekend. However, most that I was looking at were 10-30 amps???? Seems like a lot without knowing any better?
 
rusty_tlc said:
You won't need to switch much current, all you are doing it sending a signal to the ECU.

You need a NO SPST (Normally Open, Single Pole Single Throw) switch.

If you go with a dash switch I would highly recommend a lit one. It saves having to mount an extra LED or light someplace.
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Btw... I'll need you to look at that pin out and see how to run this wire were talking about.
 
Its a ground switch signal so I would get wiring etc that is big enough to run the light, all the computer cares about is that the terminal is grounded. Most of that stuff is less than 5 amps. Any size will work so long as its big enough to run the light....

The other/best option would be to run a relay, and split the ground signal so that the computer gets a signal and the other leg trips a relay that would either turn on a light or turn on the switches light... This will make it so that there is no noise on the ground line to the computer (they are pretty tolerant already though....)


If you went the other route with two switches in parallel, I would set it up so that when the shifter is in high the button is depressed once moved from the high position it ohm's to ground... Would be very simple to setup, however all of your time would be spent building the brackets. If you did go this route build the brackets off of the trans etc so that it can twist with the drive train under load... I would go this route, even though it would technically only be for the high-low portion of your crawl box and t-case I would have a light that said 4wd on the dash...
 
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chicago said:
Agreed on the lit dash switch. Kragen had some I was looking at when I was there this weekend. However, most that I was looking at were 10-30 amps???? Seems like a lot without knowing any better?
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Sandy's has some nice push button switches with a built in blue LED. The LED is a good choice because it takes very little current and is compatible with computer voltage levels.

Do you have an electronic copy of the pin out?
 
Boing said:
Its a ground switch signal so I would get wiring etc that is big enough to run the light, all the computer cares about is that the terminal is grounded. Most of that stuff is less than 5 amps. Any size will work so long as its big enough to run the light....

The other/best option would be to run a relay, and split the ground signal so that the computer gets a signal and the other leg trips a relay that would either turn on a light or turn on the switches light... This will make it so that there is no noise on the ground line to the computer (they are pretty tolerant already though....)


If you went the other route with two switches in parallel, I would set it up so that when the shifter is in high the button is depressed once moved from the high position it ohm's to ground... Would be very simple to setup, however all of your time would be spent building the brackets. If you did go this route build the brackets off of the trans etc so that it can twist with the drive train under load... I would go this route, even though it would technically only be for the high-low portion of your crawl box and t-case I would have a light that said 4wd on the dash...
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This way you can go to a scrapyard and pick up some brake light switches with their brackets, save's some time and is cheap.:doh:
 
Rusty Dan came over today to assist with the start of the wiring process!!!
Thanks God there are folks like him in the world to do that kinda stuff.
I have a LOT to learn!!!!

Hope this goes smoothly!:hhmm:
 
BTW...Im gonna run a switch off the dash for the VSS. I just flat dont like the bracket off the shifter idea. IMO, there is too much room for that to fail on me by breaking, coming loose or out of adjustment. If I ABSOLUTELY HATE the switch on the dash...Ill work more with it later, but for starters...its gonna be a manual connection.
 
Or you Could... ah just kiddin. Carry On.
 
Chicago, It is coming together real nice now!!
 
Keith,

Sorry about opening the VSS can of worms. I owe you. I just thought it was better to know how the ECU handled the low range effect.

Jack
 
locrwln1 said:
Keith,

Sorry about opening the VSS can of worms. I owe you. I just thought it was better to know how the ECU handled the low range effect.

Jack
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Glad ya did man!
I thought nothing of it and it was just a plug and go sort of thing.
Howell still didn't seem to concerned with it. This was just sort of..."well, to be on the safe side, do this and you'll be fine. " sort of thing.
 
FYI mine doesnt have any low range plug and it did ok ... I don't have a shifter set up to go into 1 st either so all my downhills was all brakes:-/
 
chicago said:
Rusty Dan came over today to assist with the start of the wiring process!!!
Thanks God there are folks like him in the world to do that kinda stuff.
I have a LOT to learn!!!!

Hope this goes smoothly!:hhmm:
Click to expand...

Given my cholesterol levels I'm glad there are people that can do what you do.

So far it's looking like this will go slicker than Owl s***. The EZ harness is pretty sweet.
 
LittleMan said:
Or you Could... ah just kiddin. Carry On.
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Right!

kling-on said:
FYI mine doesnt have any low range plug and it did ok ... I don't have a shifter set up to go into 1 st either so all my downhills was all brakes:-/
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Cant go to 1st? wtf shifter he put in there? Can you not notch the thingymabobber so the shifter drops down another click?
 
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