Build Chicago builds a 40

[GarageRat]

Here's what a single stage urethane without block sanding looks like. TCP Global Hot Rod Flatz '56 Corvette Red urethane single stage shot in my garage with a DeVilleBiss GTi Millenium with 1.6 tip, 25 ish psi at the regulator using a 4:1:1 mix ratio of paint:reducer:activator. Weather was low humidity and mid 70s. Check your specific paint but generally if you do everything in a day you don't have to worry about scuffing it between coats from what I've read and heard. Keep in mind this is a paint that is only meant to have a sheen so the lack of shine is due to the chemistry.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...e-your-land-cruiser-week-153.html#post6730232

 

[chicago]

Here's what a single stage urethane without block sanding looks like. TCP Global Hot Rod Flatz '56 Corvette Red urethane single stage shot in my garage with a DeVilleBiss GTi Millenium with 1.6 tip, 25 ish psi at the regulator using a 4:1:1 mix ratio of paint:reducer:activator. Weather was low humidity and mid 70s. Check your specific paint but generally if you do everything in a day you don't have to worry about scuffing it between coats from what I've read and heard. Keep in mind this is a paint that is only meant to have a sheen so the lack of shine is due to the chemistry.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/255593-what-have-you-done-your-land-cruiser-week-153.html#post6730232

Are you happy with how it came out??? Wish you would have block sanded?
The pic looks great sitting here. Very nice, and thanks for posting the link to see it.

 

[GarageRat]

Are you happy with how it came out??? Wish you would have block sanded?
The pic looks great sitting here. Very nice, and thanks for posting the link to see it.

I'm very happy with it, I will be first to admit that the paint and body work is not perfect but everyone who has seen it in person thinks it looks as good as the pictures. The only areas that annoy me are two small runs that I won't sand out just to avoid having any issues with paint having an inconsistent sheen. If I was going for a garage queen I would have done block sanding, base/clear, and a gloss paint job instead of matte so that I could cut and buff it to avoid any sheen issues from touch up but for my street freak DD that will see weather, traffic, etc I think it's great.

The first car I built was a show quality '78 Trans Am that had a flawless lacquer job (which requires an enormous amount of color sanding), it looked great but was hell on my nerves as a DD and I absolutely died after it got bumped in a parking lot.

Thanks for the compliments

 

[chicago]

I'm very happy with it, I will be first to admit that the paint and body work is not perfect but everyone who has seen it in person thinks it looks as good as the pictures. The only areas that annoy me are two small runs that I won't sand out just to avoid having any issues with paint having an inconsistent sheen. If I was going for a garage queen I would have done block sanding, base/clear, and a gloss paint job instead of matte so that I could cut and buff it to avoid any sheen issues from touch up but for my street freak DD that will see weather, traffic, etc I think it's great.

The first car I built was a show quality '78 Trans Am that had a flawless lacquer job (which requires an enormous amount of color sanding), it looked great but was hell on my nerves as a DD and I absolutely died after it got bumped in a parking lot.

Thanks for the compliments

Cool! Great first hand info!
The scenario that you describe of the trans am is EXACTLY why Im not being as meticulous with the body work. While doing the filler work this week, I find my OCD coming into play, then I have to stop before mixing my 3rd or 4th round of filler and say..."its a wheeler....10ft paint job!"
Ill start shooting the first batch of parts tomorrow after I get the gun set.

Thanks again for the insight!

 

[crwlntoy]

Silver metallic w/ black trim ( hinges, bezel etc. ) pretty boring, but very safe appearance wise.

I wouldn't suggest painting silver metalic for a first timer. Any sags or runs in the paint will really show up in the metalic and tiger stripes could also be a problem if you dont lay the paint down with consistant over laps. One trick to getting consistancy in the metalic is getting a good wet final coat and then holding the gun approximately 24 inches or so off the body, and spray it one more time which will make the metalic stand up in the final coat. i would suggest you try this on a couple of the smaller panels before you try and paint your tub. Also be extremely careful around your louvers and hinges because this would be an easy spot to get sags in the paint.
Good Luck, and dont be scared, you can always sand it down and do it again.

 

[waiting for time]

I wouldn't suggest painting silver metalic for a first timer. Any sags or runs in the paint will really show up in the metalic and tiger stripes could also be a problem if you dont lay the paint down with consistant over laps. One trick to getting consistancy in the metalic is getting a good wet final coat and then holding the gun approximately 24 inches or so off the body, and spray it one more time which will make the metalic stand up in the final coat. i would suggest you try this on a couple of the smaller panels before you try and paint your tub. Also be extremely careful around your louvers and hinges because this would be an easy spot to get sags in the paint.
Good Luck, and dont be scared, you can always sand it down and do it again.

Hmmmm, block sanding. I think he will hate that even more then sheet metal.

 

[chicago]

I wouldn't suggest painting silver metalic for a first timer. Any sags or runs in the paint will really show up in the metalic and tiger stripes could also be a problem if you dont lay the paint down with consistant over laps. One trick to getting consistancy in the metalic is getting a good wet final coat and then holding the gun approximately 24 inches or so off the body, and spray it one more time which will make the metalic stand up in the final coat. i would suggest you try this on a couple of the smaller panels before you try and paint your tub. Also be extremely careful around your louvers and hinges because this would be an easy spot to get sags in the paint.
Good Luck, and dont be scared, you can always sand it down and do it again.

LOL!!!!
First attempt done on smaller panel was an EPIC FAIL!!!!!
s*** ran and looked like crap. Fortunately, I did do some smaller panels and will be sanding them down tomorrow to re do them.
Posted a "HELP" thread in the "paint and body" forum as well on this for assistance.
Donno if everything is set up right or not. Was getting pretty aggervated with the whole process between spilling the stuff, not knowing if its mixed right or not and how much time to let this crap tack up before the next coat and how clean is CLEAN for the stuff that Im using.
Used the Summit etch primer (bare metal) and that came out GREAT! Really liked that.

Here are the pics of the first panels...NOT PRETTY!!!!

 

[chicago]

BTW....I am completely BESIDE MYSELF with this painting thing...I cant do ANYTHING till this crap dries. I simply DO NOT have the patience for this step in the process!!!!

DAMNIT!!!!!!

 

[spressomon]

BTW....I am completely BESIDE MYSELF with this painting thing...I cant do ANYTHING till this crap dries. I simply DO NOT have the patience for this step in the process!!!!

DAMNIT!!!!!!

Then you better go have a beer or three and settle down there buddy! I know you're good with cutting and burning metal but did you really think you were going to be a master painter using a new paint gun/equipment set-up AND on your first panel to boot?

Take a deep breath!

 

[locrwln1]

Then you better go have a beer or three and settle down there buddy! I know you're good with cutting and burning metal but did you really think you were going to be a master painter using a new paint gun/equipment set-up AND on your first panel to boot?

Take a deep breath!

^^What he said.

Breathe, relax, aim, squeeze. Oh wait, that is for shooting a gun.

Jack

 

[Slowerthanu]

I would shoot for lighter coats, give up on the metallic, my buddy is a professional and he hates metallic, candy etc. because it is that much harder.

You cannot pause on the piece at all when shooting paint.

I too lack patience but when it comes to paint, you must find your chi.

 

[GarageRat]

One tip that I found helped a ton with painting, something I personally HATE doing as well, was starting the air say 6 inches from the edge of the panel and the paint an inch away so that any "spitting" that could occur was before the panel, then run past the panel before stopping paint flow.

I dial my paint and air mix on a scrap piece before shooting the vehicle usually, the few runs in mine were from impatience and not following my own rules to painting. Any mistake you make from impatience will bite you in the ass, then when the monday morning quarterback painters see it and ask what happened you will kick yourself again.

One day I'd rather just get good enough at metal work to just clear coat so that it wouldn't rust without any of the hassle of color.

 

[chicago]

Then you better go have a beer or three and settle down there buddy! I know you're good with cutting and burning metal but did you really think you were going to be a master painter using a new paint gun/equipment set-up AND on your first panel to boot?

Take a deep breath!

No...didint think that Id be a pro or anything, but wasnt expecting it to be like that...I guess that I thought it would be more like a rattle can, only a little bit better. My problem last night was there was NOTHING I could do...I couldnt start sanding it down yet, couldnt prep anything else... I just had to be idle. Im not good with that.

^^What he said.

Breathe, relax, aim, squeeze. Oh wait, that is for shooting a gun.

Jack

I would shoot for lighter coats, give up on the metallic, my buddy is a professional and he hates metallic, candy etc. because it is that much harder.

You cannot pause on the piece at all when shooting paint.

I too lack patience but when it comes to paint, you must find your chi.

Ive been doing a little reading, and Im a bit concerned with the metallic option that Ive chosen. However....donno if I can return the paint or not at this point.

One tip that I found helped a ton with painting, something I personally HATE doing as well, was starting the air say 6 inches from the edge of the panel and the paint an inch away so that any "spitting" that could occur was before the panel, then run past the panel before stopping paint flow.

I dial my paint and air mix on a scrap piece before shooting the vehicle usually, the few runs in mine were from impatience and not following my own rules to painting. Any mistake you make from impatience will bite you in the ass, then when the monday morning quarterback painters see it and ask what happened you will kick yourself again.

One day I'd rather just get good enough at metal work to just clear coat so that it wouldn't rust without any of the hassle of color.

Here's my problem...I have NO CLUE what a good spray is for the HVLP. NONE. SO I did actually adjust the gun to what I thought was good. Worked great for the primer, but the actual paint was a different animal. Nother go around today so well see what happens unless I bag the metallic which is a possibility. Not too sure I really like the color all that much now that I have it down on something. Aside from the fact that it came out horribly....

 

[Mace]

Primer is much thicker than paint. So you have to adjust the gun down or you will have lots of runs..

You should have seen my tailgate on bob the first coat of metallic I sprayed on it

Small changes can make the world of difference. I know you can do it.

 

[EWheeler]

The key to metallic paints it applying multiple light coats. Too wet and the metallics "float" in the paint and you get uneven distribution with dark & light spots. You want to have as many panels ready as possible and hit each one with a light coat, with a 15 min or so flash between coats. If you used a grey primer, 3 coats should be good. A darker primer/sealer may require more for a light base coat color. ALWAYS keep your spray guy at a 90 degree angle to the panel you are spraying. This helps make sure you have even application of the paint.

Watch how this guy manipulates the guy with his wrist/arm to make sure it is always square with the surface he is painting.

‪Discover How To Paint A Car Yourself - Base Coat, Clear, Tri-Coat‬‏ - YouTube

Painting is not easy and is labor intensive if you fawk it up (as you are finding out ). It my be the best choice to move to a non-mettalic paint and then keep in mind, you are going to wheel the crap out of this rig!!!!

Good luck buddy. I have enjoyed this thread and am excited for you to get er on the road.

 

[chicago]

I bagged the metallic! Went back to blotch rig blue NON metallic.
Sanded down the panels and re sprayed em.

Still getting the orange peel affect though. Im doing SOMETHING wrong. Dont quite know what it is though....
From what Ive been reading, there will always be some of this effect, but its glaring on my application and there are numerous factors. Gotta get this resolved though. Im much happier with the color over all, though. The silver was just...metal looking. Im TIRED of looking at METAL!

 

[chicago]

The key to metallic paints it applying multiple light coats. Too wet and the metallics "float" in the paint and you get uneven distribution with dark & light spots. You want to have as many panels ready as possible and hit each one with a light coat, with a 15 min or so flash between coats. If you used a grey primer, 3 coats should be good. A darker primer/sealer may require more for a light base coat color. ALWAYS keep your spray guy at a 90 degree angle to the panel you are spraying. This helps make sure you have even application of the paint.

Watch how this guy manipulates the guy with his wrist/arm to make sure it is always square with the surface he is painting.

‪Discover How To Paint A Car Yourself - Base Coat, Clear, Tri-Coat‬‏ - YouTube

Painting is not easy and is labor intensive if you fawk it up (as you are finding out ). It my be the best choice to move to a non-mettalic paint and then keep in mind, you are going to wheel the crap out of this rig!!!!

Good luck buddy. I have enjoyed this thread and am excited for you to get er on the road.

Ive been watching those videos the last couple of days...
I think its my gun set up.

 

[Kurtis]

It looks like to much paint and pressure. Less is more when painting. Its Ok to get coverage over multiple coats. You have so much paint on when your spraying the air is able to move it around. Thats what it looks like to me. If it comes down to it you can get maaco or equivalent bargain place to do a cheap spray for almost nothing.

 

[Mace]

It looks like to much paint and pressure. Less is more when painting. Its Ok to get coverage over multiple coats. You have so much paint on when your spraying the air is able to move it around. Thats what it looks like to me. If it comes down to it you can get maaco or equivalent bargain place to do a cheap spray for almost nothing.

When I was shopping those places "almost nothing" was about $800

 

[EWheeler]

It looks like to much paint and pressure. Less is more when painting. Its Ok to get coverage over multiple coats. You have so much paint on when your spraying the air is able to move it around. Thats what it looks like to me. If it comes down to it you can get maaco or equivalent bargain place to do a cheap spray for almost nothing.

x2 on the Maaco. We did all the prep work on a buddy's car and had Maaco shoot it, it turned out great for a cheap commuter at $400. It's not that they don't know how to paint cars that they have a bad rap, it's that you don't pay for the prep work. If you do all the prep first & primer, their paint job would turn out fine for a trail rig.