Build Chicago builds a 40

[locrwln1]

The block and wet sanding is really only if you want to get rid of the enevitable "orange peel" effect. And since you are using a single stage, I don't think I would do it anyway, because you will burn through the paint at some point on the body and then have to do it again. My opinion would be to get a good solid coating on it and call it good.

Jack

 

[chicago]

The block and wet sanding is really only if you want to get rid of the enevitable "orange peel" effect. And since you are using a single stage, I don't think I would do it anyway, because you will burn through the paint at some point on the body and then have to do it again. My opinion would be to get a good solid coating on it and call it good.

Jack

I was wondering about that.
Dude was gonna try and steer me into doing a two stage paint. Finally, I told him... It's gonna get scratched the first time I take it out and it's a step up from the rattle can I had planned originally.

I just wanna plod through this honestly. Don't wanna spend a ton of time on paint that's gonna get hammered any way. Was just curious if it NEEDED to be done.

Thanks for chimin in!

 

[waiting for time]

In lieu of building a booth, my actually suggested to make the booth in the ONE CAR bay.

Don't you love it when they get involved like that?

Is block sand a MUST as part of the paint process? Does that just make the paint smoother?

It's also important for the next layer too attach better.

 

[LittleMan]

With single stage I don't believe there's gonna be another layer. And you Definitely don't need to block sand between coats.

I've enjoyed watching this project evolve - and learned alot through Your frustrations and victories. Thanks for sharing.

 

[chicago]

With single stage I don't believe there's gonna be another layer. And you Definitely don't need to block sand between coats.

I've enjoyed watching this project evolve - and learned alot through Your frustrations and victories. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks man, and thanks for posting up.
Its been a long road for sure. I wouldnt do it again, but Im glad that I did it...if that makes any sense!? I love it, dont get me wrong, but if I were to build another rig, I would definitely NOT go the route that I went as in a COMPLETE and TOTAL re build.

Itll be GREAT when its "done" and I can actually wheel again. 2 years is a LOOOONG time to NOT be enjoying the great out doors behind the wheel.

Hoping that she'll be everything I imagined her to be and it was worth every bit of effort.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I was wondering about that.
Dude was gonna try and steer me into doing a two stage paint. Finally, I told him... It's gonna get scratched the first time I take it out and it's a step up from the rattle can I had planned originally.

I just wanna plod through this honestly. Don't wanna spend a ton of time on paint that's gonna get hammered any way. Was just curious if it NEEDED to be done.

Thanks for chimin in!

Don't forget to get a couple of rattle cans filled up at the paint store on Longely for touch-up.

 

[Mace]

It's also important for the next layer too attach better.

Most likely he is going to shoot each panel in a day. Not a week in between coats.

No reason to wet sand after each coat.

 

[waiting for time]

Most likely he is going to shoot each panel in a day. Not a week in between coats.

No reason to wet sand after each coat.

He needs to sand the primer down for good adhesion and I always like to give it some time before the last layer so I can take out the mayor misshabs.

 

[chicago]

He needs to sand the primer down for good adhesion and I always like to give it some time before the last layer so I can take out the mayor misshabs.

From what Ive been reading, that's not really true. As Im to understand it, its purely for the finish coat appearance, UNLESS the primer coat has been sitting for too long, in which case...the pores of the primer need to be RE opened (via block sanding) so the final coat can then stick.

 

[chicago]

Got the hood back from the sand blaster...
What a FANTASTIC job they did!!! However, they did expose some rust holes that I then needed to weld in and bondo. Got MOST of that done last night, but I had to do another round of bondo and I ran outta time for the curing.
There are some odds and ends on the tail gate and such that I need to look over, so that is probably how the week is gonna be for this. Just getting the surfaces prepped for the paint, then I can just grab and shoot.

 

[spressomon]

You probably posted it....but what color are you going to paint it Keith?

 

[chicago]

You probably posted it....but what color are you going to paint it Keith?

Silver metallic w/ black trim ( hinges, bezel etc. ) pretty boring, but very safe appearance wise.

 

[chicago]

Anyone bolt in rubber floor mats???
I was originally planning on lining the interior of the tub, but i have decided against it.
However, I would like something to keep the feet from sliding around on the floor boards.
Don't really wanna do carpet either.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Anyone bolt in rubber floor mats???
I was originally planning on lining the interior of the tub, but i have decided against it.
However, I would like something to keep the feet from sliding around on the floor boards.
Don't really wanna do carpet either.

Check with the guys at CRS on Glendale. The FJ40 I drove in the 70's had floor mats made from conveyor belt.

 

[bsilva132]

I saw this setup at the Stockton swapmeet 2 years ago. There is also a guy on ebay that sells rubber floor mats for the front and rear.

 

[spressomon]

Check with the guys at CRS on Glendale. The FJ40 I drove in the 70's had floor mats made from conveyor belt.

I'm not familiar with CRS but CIR (California Industrial Rubber) on East Glendale usually has remnants laying around and the guys have always been super helpful to me...especially when they find out its for a 4x4. And in addition to all things rubber belting related they also have a good selection of SS clamps, misc. fittings, etc.

CIR, California Industrial Rubber - National distributors and manufacturers of rubber and plastics

 

[chicago]

Suppose I was thinking of something like what the more modern vehicles have. There is sort of a hook system that is bolted into the floor board, which secures the mat in place via holes punched in the mat. Suppose the type of mat doesn't really matter as anything I'll have to cut to fit.
I really like the mats that are in my Tacoma. They work as described above, and are corrugated to trap water, dirt and such.
Suppose I could just use those nut serts to secure anything I'd wanna use, including just a couple slabs of rubber.
Or I could just slap some grip tape down....
But that'll be a bitch when it wears out.

Anyway.... Most all of the Misc. Prep is done. Gonna finish the trans tunnel, and thats it. Gonna start getting the booth set up. Used nut serts to secure the shifter boots. Love those things.
Start painting this weekend!!!!!

 

[kling-on]

Don't stop now... Spray the floor you'll be happier in the long run... Al's liner comes in grey and tan. I'm going to spray he 42 with grey, got it at work they even sell a gun to spray it with.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I'm not familiar with CRS but CIR (California Industrial Rubber) on East Glendale usually has remnants laying around and the guys have always been super helpful to me...especially when they find out its for a 4x4. And in addition to all things rubber belting related they also have a good selection of SS clamps, misc. fittings, etc.

CIR, California Industrial Rubber - National distributors and manufacturers of rubber and plastics

That's the place, they say the memory is the first thing to go. Or is it? I forget.

 

[chicago]

Don't stop now... Spray the floor you'll be happier in the long run... Al's liner comes in grey and tan. I'm going to spray he 42 with grey, got it at work they even sell a gun to spray it with.

I'm thinking that might not be the best way to go for me for the long run. If you have to change something, the stuff wears badly or whatever.... That's a s*** ton of work grinding that crap off.
I'm just gonna paint it and put a mat down. Good to go. If I wanna do the liner later I can, but it's a LOT harder to go back with the liner in.