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Unless it's in park, the auto will spin the output shaft. Even in Neutral. So it's kinda like you are rolling down a hill trying to shove it in low range.

you can pop it in and out of 4wd in either high or low all day long.


Im going to guess that is because of the auto and that would be the case if I had a toybox, atlas ect.?
Thanks for the shifter location verification. Got the positioning set today with that info. Now Ive just gotta get some rod for the REAL linkage, bend the levers, thread those and stick the handles on and that is DONE!:clap:. Last weekend I re drilled my case link points to SHORTEN the throw as much as I could. That worked VERY WELL.
I 86'd the bronze spacers I had...seemed like a good idea at the time, but even just shifting for testing purposes, there was noticeable wear to them, so I went with steel instead.

Hey...do you have any ideas for making a bezel (of sorts) or trim piece for a 2M radio?
The PO hacked a FUGLY hole in the radio slot, and my Yaesu radio fits in there PERFECTLY, but does NOT cover the hack job completely.

Anyone...feel free as I have no idea short of chopping it ALL out and starting fresh. Dont really wanna do that. I hate sheet metal work.:hillbilly:
 
What do you mean?

Front shaft held one way by the front tires on the ground, the rear shaft held the other way by the rear tires, so it's hard to disengage the front axle because the collar is under load by the front and rear output shafts twisting in opposite directions.
 
Unless it's in park, the auto will spin the output shaft. Even in Neutral. So it's kinda like you are rolling down a hill trying to shove it in low range.

you can pop it in and out of 4wd in either high or low all day long.
This is also true with my UZJ100, the t-case will sometimes grind a little if you try to shift into low while in neutral.
 
Im going to guess that is because of the auto and that would be the case if I had a toybox, atlas ect.?
Thanks for the shifter location verification. Got the positioning set today with that info. Now Ive just gotta get some rod for the REAL linkage, bend the levers, thread those and stick the handles on and that is DONE!:clap:. Last weekend I re drilled my case link points to SHORTEN the throw as much as I could. That worked VERY WELL.
I 86'd the bronze spacers I had...seemed like a good idea at the time, but even just shifting for testing purposes, there was noticeable wear to them, so I went with steel instead.

Hey...do you have any ideas for making a bezel (of sorts) or trim piece for a 2M radio?
The PO hacked a FUGLY hole in the radio slot, and my Yaesu radio fits in there PERFECTLY, but does NOT cover the hack job completely.

Anyone...feel free as I have no idea short of chopping it ALL out and starting fresh. Dont really wanna do that. I hate sheet metal work.:hillbilly:
For bezels I like to use aluminum, it's pretty easy to work with a file and a pair of nibblers. These guys will probably anodize it for a couple of bucks.
Apex Anodizing
Same place that did the fan shroud for primer7.


BTW I never finished those other bracket. I found a used FT-7800 so the FT-2800 is going back in the FJ40. The Ft-7800 is going into the UZJ100 and the FT-8900 is going into the FJ60. Rusty's version of musical radios. :lol:
 
This is also true with my UZJ100, the t-case will sometimes grind a little if you try to shift into low while in neutral.

I wanna say the Blotch rig was the same way...
I cant say for sure though. Its been SOOOOO LONG!
 
Lots done despite my fuel pump disappointment....

Got the shift linkages threaded at long last an basically finalized. Trimmed out the trans tunnel for the throws on those.
Ordered a set of triple stick shift boots from this place.

JB Custom Fabrication: Shifter boots

Didnt wanna set the handle lengths and bend those till I got the boots to see how those are set up.

Bolted the cage in place and got 80 % of it welded. That for me was pretty exciting. Couple of the supports Im considering trimming a bit for better fit and support.

All in all, a good weekend in the shop while on call and getting paid for it.:bounce::bounce2:
 
Got ALL my sh!t I was waiting for which included the fuel pump mounting ring, tail gate latches from McMaster Carr and shifter boots.
I was so excited when I got home from work today that I HAD to start back on the tank.
Built the sump, figured the sock location IN the sump, transcribed the dimensions to the BOTTOM of the tank so I then figure where to drill the hole for the pump on top of the tank! Drilled the pilot hole for the pump, stuck on the 2 1/4 in hole saw and started, but soon realized it was TOO DULL to proceed. So Ill have to get a new one.:doh::bang:

First pics are of the pump assembly. Its adjustable for the depth. I made the sump 3in deep, 4 in wide and 7 in long. Seems that the MORE room you make in the sump, the greater the opportunity for the fuel to slosh away from the pick up, so I figured a smaller sump is better.
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Dimensions on the tank bottom.
One more of the sump depth.
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couple of the shift boots.
Pretty nice looking IMO!
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Glad to see you getting it figured out, I know it has been a difficult journey.

Jack

yeup!
Still gotta figure out how I wanna run the filler neck after all this.
I knew this was gonna be hard for me, but I was hoping otherwise. It'll be worth the effort in the end though. Like you once said...I really PLAN OUT my mods!:lol:
 
yeup!
Still gotta figure out how I wanna run the filler neck after all this.
I knew this was gonna be hard for me, but I was hoping otherwise. It'll be worth the effort in the end though. Like you once said...I really PLAN OUT my mods!:lol:


I would say right side of the tank top front, make a square and let it flow in a circle in front of the wheel well and connect it to the original filler.

NIce job, glad you are getting ahead with this, love the shifters.:cool:
 
So I just scored a bare frame and tub... When can you come over and help me build mine?

I joke, I joke. Your doing great, hang in there.

Nice to see you yesterday even if it was just on the freeway.
 
So I just scored a bare frame and tub... When can you come over and help me build mine?

I joke, I joke. Your doing great, hang in there.

Nice to see you yesterday even if it was just on the freeway.

Back atcha!
LOL...was driving and saw a NICE 45 and was was like..."WHO is THIS?" Got closer and saw YOU.:lol:
Rig looks great!

Ill NEVER do this again! IF I ever get rid of this and or it offs itself, ill take the easy route next time around. Once in a life time build. I love it, but Im ready for it to be done!
 
So I went wheeling last weekend for 3 days and had no issues other than a busted leaf I fixed yesterday. Then went out last night and busted a bell housing. even tho I broke I still wheeled... just thought I would rub it in some. :flipoff2:
 
Tank is almost DONE. Pressure tested TODAY. 8 pinhole leaks TOTAL, 7 of which were around the sump. ONLY ONE on the main tank. Pretty happy about that. Ran outta time, so I couldnt really get to fixin em. Im modifying the tank mounts JUST A BIT as well. I halfed the shock tabs so I have more lateral movement when getting it in and out. With the way the fuller neck is gonna have to run, it'll HAVE to be able to move laterally to the DS. With the full shock tabs there, I can NOT do that.

Some pics.
011 (2).webp
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Few more of the tank/ sump
014 (2).webp
021.webp
007 (3).webp
 
So I went wheeling last weekend for 3 days and had no issues other than a busted leaf I fixed yesterday. Then went out last night and busted a bell housing. even tho I broke I still wheeled... just thought I would rub it in some. :flipoff2:

YEAH, YEAH, YEAH!!!
My time is comin! SOME DAY...its coming!







DICK!:flipoff2:
 
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