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Man... you are just about as slow as I am. :) The project looks great. Keep it up!

Dude...I know! I suck. :crybaby:
Actually, one thing that I do very well is obsess on small, in significant details that take a really loooooong time to build, track down parts for or fit. So my OCD really hampers progress. :p
As of late though, Ive been WEB WRENCHING. By that, I mean researching the piss out of this fuel system, and tracking down the IDEAL parts to accomplish this task.
 
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Some of your wife would offset the crappy sore eye pics ;)

I'll get you the answers you requested this afternoon amigo.

Yeah.... My wife is much nicer to look at.
Could always post some of YOUR wife in the mean time. She's no slouch either. :o

Thanks for the info when you get a chance. If I recall correctly, on the 203 , if the pivot is forward ( with the linkage on the top) that is low and on the split case the pivot is all the way over to the PS that is also low?
 
Did you get your parking brake figured out as far as mounting the cable. Finishing up all my brake lines and was looking for a good place to mount that braket. How much slack can you have in the cable?
 
Did you get your parking brake figured out as far as mounting the cable. Finishing up all my brake lines and was looking for a good place to mount that braket. How much slack can you have in the cable?

Gonna make a bracket off the side of the wrap bar for the e brake and snake it through there.
The thing you wanna watch out for is that spring area ON THE CABLE where the one cable that goes to the bell cranks and the MAIN pull cable converge. It seems that you dont want that to be kinked up. On my 62, I didnt have it mounted on the housing at all, but the other tabs off the cable were secured. There should be some slack on the cable itself when mounting it. The first time I set THIS ONE, I had to LITTLE slack and the brakes wouldn't relax at the bell cranks.
 
GAWT DAMNIT!!!
It drives me NUTZ when waiting for parts, you GET THEM and they are NOT ALL THERE!!!!
Got the new fuel pump from Tanks INC., I asked the lady..."it comes with the mounting ring and hardware?" "Yes. Its all there"
I get it...NOOOOO F*CKING MOUNTING RING OR HARDWARE!!!!!!!

UUUUUUUUUGH!:bang::mad::bang::mad:

I reallllly wanted to get that done this weekend!!!!
 
Okay,
203, mine hangs down, and forward is high range, so if your lever is pointed up, it'll be back for high range.

Split tcase, rotate it clockwise to get to high range. counter clockwise for low range.

2wd/4wd is 2wd back, and 4wd forward.

I just used some 3/4" steel bushings with nylon shims in between. The pivot was a standard bolt. Tension is by a nylock nut so it holds the tension that I set. The arms themselves are inch and a half wide 1/4" thick flat plate that I threaded for ball jointed heims (McMaster-Carr)

The linkages are just 1/2" tubing with weld-in inserts for the heims.
 
Okay,
203, mine hangs down, and forward is high range, so if your lever is pointed up, it'll be back for high range.

Split tcase, rotate it clockwise to get to high range. counter clockwise for low range.

2wd/4wd is 2wd back, and 4wd forward.

I just used some 3/4" steel bushings with nylon shims in between. The pivot was a standard bolt. Tension is by a nylock nut so it holds the tension that I set. The arms themselves are inch and a half wide 1/4" thick flat plate that I threaded for ball jointed heims (McMaster-Carr)

The linkages are just 1/2" tubing with weld-in inserts for the heims.

Cool! Thanks man!
Now, do you have any binds, stick points or anything like that with your set up?
Nylock nut....FAWKING RAD! I LOVE THOSE!:cool::grinpimp:
 
Just IN THE RIG NOW, the 203 is binding through the ranges. I have to manually turn the input flange to get it to shift.
There also seems to be a little binding on the split case as well. There is NO OIL in either, so I think that may be part of the issue....I hope!
 
So you going in-line pump instead of in the tank? I must have missed the decision in the last couple pages or I have had to much morgan and don't remember.
 
nope no binding. Although I do pretty much have to be in park to shift in and out of low range.
 
So you going in-line pump instead of in the tank? I must have missed the decision in the last couple pages or I have had to much morgan and don't remember.

Lol. I've NEVER experienced ANYTHING like you describe having had some ETOH down the gullet. :rolleyes:
I'm still making every effort to do an in tank set up.
This one from tanksinc. Is a lot like the one mace built, only I paid probably 3 x more for it than what he did.

I'll post up pics as I go with that as it's been such a source if struggle.
 
nope no binding. Although I do pretty much have to be in park to shift in and out of low range.


For both boxes you need to do that? Any thing to go from 4wd to 2wd? Like being able to use the low gears in 2 wd?
 
Cool can't wait to see the pics. Finally made it back to the gym for the first time in about 2 weeks so have to offset the exercise with a couple of drinks. Don't want to be to healthy.:D
 
For both boxes you need to do that? Any thing to go from 4wd to 2wd? Like being able to use the low gears in 2 wd?
It does not matter in low range. I have to shift in park to get it in either low range with the auto. Unfortunately, in Neutral, the tailshaft will still spin..

4wd/2wd I can do at 60 with the hubs rolled.(tested)
 
It does not matter in low range. I have to shift in park to get it in either low range with the auto. Unfortunately, in Neutral, the tailshaft will still spin..

4wd/2wd I can do at 60 with the hubs rolled.(tested)

Why is that? Do you know? Seems a BIT problematic, but nothing I cant live with.:hhmm:
So you can pop in and out of 2WD-4WD in the LOW gears all day without issue? That will come in handy with the auto locker up front when bound up I think.
 
Unless it's in park, the auto will spin the output shaft. Even in Neutral. So it's kinda like you are rolling down a hill trying to shove it in low range.

you can pop it in and out of 4wd in either high or low all day long.
 
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