Checking front wheel baring preload

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etx

Joined
Jan 10, 2015
Threads
7
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46
Location
Smithwick, TX
Greetings esteemed fellow mudders. Recently I rebuilt my front axle, all bearings and races I replaced. I just put my truck on stands and, holding the front tires at 12 & 6 six, the bottom has approx 2 mm of play. What say you? Need I take the wheels off and adjust the preload or is this normal? 1996 fzj80 tx truck. ALL input appreciated. Time to drink!
 
2mm is approx .080"

That's a lot. I measured about 0.007" of play before I rebuilt mine, and it felt bad. How are you measuring yours?

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I'm gonna tear it back down and adjust the big but. I just pulled the wheel with the tire on to check it. I figured as much the same thing happened w my 87 4 runner. Hopefully I haven't damaged the dang hub/spindle or whatever the races are in. I'm only familiar w ifs. I moved up mayn! Thank y'all very much.
 
I had a similar issue and had to tighten it while on a trip. This worked but I was still getting a bit of noise once and a while. My bearings were all newer 2 yrs old as well as both spindles so I feared the worst and hoped for the best. When I pulled the hub at home I made sure to re grease the tapper bearings a bit as well as the spindle before setting the preload. This did it and I have had no issue since. Thus if/when you can, add some grease and then reset. Also check that the lock tab for the slot in the spindle is not bent or sheered of. I had an issue with mine which likely led to the nut getting a little loose.

Good luck. I have an old 85 4Runner as well, sorry to hear your was rolled. These are great mini trucks, but are not as nice as the 80 on a long trip.
 
Dont use the fish scale method for preload. There is a write up I used and many other used from the Arizona guys that's works the best.

The factory preload procedure in the FSM is not the best for every situation.

I think if you search using my username it will pop up. Credit goes to someone else though.
 
Dump fish scale and torque the lock nut to 15-25lbs(31 inch - 35+ inch tires) and call it a day. That has been well documented here and proven to work great, me included.

On the inner .. I usually put double on the outer .. but there are other recipes out there ..
 
I consistently here, when a question is asked, get a FSM and follow the procedure outlined for your repair. Bearing preload Is Important and most of these trucks made it 20 years with that procedure. Get a 54mm socket a scale and do it right so It won't go out on the guy you sell it to In a few years.JMHO Good Lock. !
 
I consistently here, when a question is asked, get a FSM and follow the procedure outlined for your repair. Bearing preload Is Important and most of these trucks made it 20 years with that procedure. Get a 54mm socket a scale and do it right so It won't go out on the guy you sell it to In a few years.JMHO Good Lock. !
That make be sufficient when running stock size tires. Larger tires cause the nuts to loosen up when torqued with the FSM procedure.
 
Dump fish scale and torque the lock nut to 15-25lbs(31 inch - 35+ inch tires) and call it a day. That has been well documented here and proven to work great, me included.

Yep, on big tire rigs that are wheeled often , been torquing the inner nut to 30ft/lb, the outer FSM spec 47ft/lb.
 
This is good to know now that I have done this a second time already... Guess I'll have to open it back up before I go to Moab and check them again.
 
On the inner .. I usually put double on the outer .. but there are other recipes out there ..

Sorry I meant inner preload nut, keep the putter lock nut at 47 per FSM as other have already point out. I too had to re torque my wheel bearing preload twice until I saw what tools and otheres in AZ have been doing, Ever since the front has been solid as rock.

higher preload in theory kill bearings faster but use good grease, cDAn and beno have made in Japan bearings waiting for us. I have a set ready to go but the darn toyota engineers over killed on the wheel bearings and at 200k my bearings don't really show any wear. At 300k the bearing seems to start to go, NlXTACY's front bearing was showing wear(not killed) at 300+k when I was helping him with some stuff.
 
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higher preload in theory kill bearings faster but use good grease, ...

Not so much, the best way to kill bearings and spindles and flat washers and,,, is to run them loose, loose bearings are weak, preloaded bearings are strong.

... I have a set ready to go but the darn toyota engineers over killed on the wheel bearings and at 200k my bearings don't really show any wear. At 300k the bearing seems to start to go, NlXTACY's front bearing was showing wear(not killed) at 300+k when I was helping him with some stuff.

Work on lots of high mileage, big tire rigs that likely still have originals, it's rare to see them failed, even when marginally maintained. The bearing spec is way overkill for the application.
 
I got the advice from Tools R Us. It's has worked great. Especially after investing in new spindles after the old ones were toast.

I followed the FSM on the new bearings and spindles and they would loosen up.

Also torque the nut several times as you rotate the wheel in both directions a hand full of times. You will notice that the nut will tighten a bit more.
 
So far I've followed Tools advice on whatever I've done to my rig & he hasn't failed me yet! I wish I had him on speed-dial.
 
Tools method has worked great for me for 75000+ miles, much of which has been with 37s. Oh, and yes, my rigs sees tons of wheeling in the rocks. John
 
Thanks everyone for the input. I got it dialed in today. Sure is nice when everything is clean!
 

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