Changing the 2F Side Cover - but what else? (1 Viewer)

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Working on the 2F side cover reseal and have the OEM cork gasket and some FIPG

Current state of disassembly below.

What else should I do while visiting this gunk and funk covered
- hoses look ancient
- galley plug looks original

0254576A-01E8-4111-91B4-5D50D24B7F4C.jpeg


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Not really in a rush, and want to do it right.

Also, this alternator was recently installed by prior owner. It’s a 55 Amp jobby, no idea what brand. Thinking ncables may be in order as well.

7D85C39B-5385-46C0-AC4C-FA8ED50EA8FB.jpeg

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Thanks in advance,
Gundo
 
some of those heater hoses have original clamps, my guess is they may be original hoses, I'd replace all of them

has the oil galley plug been repaired or does it just look good? if it hasn't been done, I'd do that also.
 
Hey Gundo-

What they said ^^

Funny how a "while I'm in there , what else should I do" comment opens a can of worms.

For a routine, I will spray every fastener with the penetrating oil a couple days before doing the work, and then slightly tighten them to break the thread freeze, and then back them off and then retighten, just as a preventative measure.
 
some of those heater hoses have original clamps, my guess is they may be original hoses, I'd replace all of them

has the oil galley plug been repaired or does it just look good? if it hasn't been done, I'd do that also.
When you replace the hoses use OEM style clamps, available from Toyota or City Racer here on MUD (his store is closed through tomorrow).
 
Just be aware that if you remove the wire to the oil pressure sender, or if it gets knocked off...that you have to put it back on the correct post otherwise you fry your oil pressure gauge.

when you remove the side cover, make sure the pcv piping/elbow is clear of sludge.
 
^^^ the correct post is the round nub in the middle. Add a little 1” length of evap hose to the side nub so you don’t flake.
 
Thanks all - have the proper clamps, and all hoses are on the way.

Good advice on oil pressure sensor connection - hadn’t considered that.

This project going a bit slower than expected, the boss and her new deck has become a larger priority.
 
probably obvious, all inclusive, but the pcv valve and grommet. I just recently did this. A 1/4" mini inch pound torque wrench. lots of cleaning.
 
@fjc-man good catch, I was wondering about that Tee above the PCV. Didn't see it on the factory diagram.


2F Exhaust Gas Diagram.jpg
 
Okay, so ready to reinstall the cork gasket on the pushrod gallery side cover for Lola

One question - to use FIPG or not?

Seems to be two schools of thought - any advice on which way to go?

(1) apply a thin smear of FIPG on both sides of the cork
(2) go naked, just use the cork gasket, let the oil seep into the cork and form the seal


Toyota 2F FSM Side Cover Torque.jpeg

And yes, torque specs on the bolts are 35 inch-pounds, that's a bit more than finger tight based on my testing and other comments here.



M+m1JLT6T+q9wyHJeI2PPQ.jpg
 
I went per FSM but bought that mini torque wrench. Ill go back to check torque after a few more heating and cooling sessions. There are alot of opinions on this.
 
Thanks all. FIPG it is. Done and dusted. Now to tackle all those original oil cooler hoses....
 
some of those heater hoses have original clamps, my guess is they may be original hoses, I'd replace all of them

has the oil galley plug been repaired or does it just look good? if it hasn't been done, I'd do that also.
Have a part # on the Galley Plug. Im doing this same job.
 
Get rid of that T-fitting above the PCV valve. Oh and the grommet is 90480-18180. The PCV is 12204- 61010.
Grommet 90480-18180 comes back as not fitting my '87 60
 
Grommet part number for 2F is indeed 90480-18180 and PCV Valve is 12204-61010

When I replaced the grommet, it disintegrated in my hands - the rubber was toast, brittle and frail

And yes, I did remove the Tee. Not sure why it was installed in the first place - maybe faulty PCV value in the past.

Will try to add a pic of parts and numbers below
 
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