CDL won’t engage at all (1 Viewer)

[Brayden3223]

Gday you brilliant minds, just out here with another issue with the Ol 97’ FZJ80.

Found out the other week while on a track that my CDL won’t engage when put in low (I don’t have CDL button) I’ve replaced the switch on the front of the transfer case as I found this damaged and tested it, the switch itself is working and I can hear the relay clicking in the footwell but still no CDL. I cannot hear the actuator turn at all. The CDL light also does not appear when I turn the car to accessories

I heard it could possibly be the actuator itself which I’m hoping it’s not, is there any other things that could cause this fault? I heard there is another sensor on the rear of the transfer case but I couldn’t see it, can a faulty sensor cause the actuator to not engage or is it just to display the dash light?

Cheers

 

[ppc]

Sensor switch on the front of transfer controls dash light. Sensor switch on rear extension, 4LOW position switch controls the activation of the CDL actuator via the CDL relay. Looking forward that switch is in the 1 o'clock position. The other switch at the 11 o'clock position senses the neutral position of the transfer case.

If you hear the relay click then shifting into LOW that means the 4LOW switch would be functioning properly and most likely have a problem with the actuator or the wiring to it.

 

[Brayden3223]

Sensor switch on the front of transfer controls dash light. Sensor switch on rear extension, 4LOW position switch controls the activation of the CDL actuator via the CDL relay. Looking forward that switch is in the 1 o'clock position. The other switch at the 11 o'clock position senses the neutral position of the transfer case.

If you hear the relay click then shifting into LOW that means the 4LOW switch would be functioning properly and most likely have a problem with the actuator or the wiring to it.

Im hoping it isnt as it sounds like a pain of a job. is there any way i can put power directly to the actuator to test if it will turn or not? im also curious whether its worth connecting the hazard button to the plug behind the dash to round out all probable causes but id assume that button just directly activates the relay

 

[ppc]

The CDL dash switch is just redundant if the 4LOW sensor switch is working, maybe just easier to push the button. There are many threads to search related to the actuator that address debugging its operation and of course the first read would be the FSM which can be downloaded from the "Resources" section of the forum.

 

[jonheld]

 

[izzyandsue]

The actuator can be tested on the Tcase if needed, when you remove the plug you will see a 5 pins (2 on top, 3 on bottom). The two on top are for the power (pos and neg). I have been able to test it with 9V battery, of course 12v is better, and some alligator clips and wires.
If it is dead and you need to replace it, it is not too difficult of a job and your actuator might be gummed up, corroded or dirty. My old one was but a good cleaning got it working again. There are a few posts in Mud with pictures on how to replace it as well.

 

[jonheld]

Im hoping it isnt as it sounds like a pain of a job. is there any way i can put power directly to the actuator to test if it will turn or not? im also curious whether its worth connecting the hazard button to the plug behind the dash to round out all probable causes but id assume that button just directly activates the relay

The actuator can be tested with a 9 volt battery across pins 2/3 as explained above. It should run the motor to the limit in each direction by reversing polarity.

 

[Brayden3223]

View attachment 2964651

you are an absolute legend for this and for the other photo. this weekend ill put some power to it along with testing to make sure power is even getting there in the first place.

 

[Brayden3223]

The actuator can be tested on the Tcase if needed, when you remove the plug you will see a 5 pins (2 on top, 3 on bottom). The two on top are for the power (pos and neg). I have been able to test it with 9V battery, of course 12v is better, and some alligator clips and wires.
If it is dead and you need to replace it, it is not too difficult of a job and your actuator might be gummed up, corroded or dirty. My old one was but a good cleaning got it working again. There are a few posts in Mud with pictures on how to replace it as well.

cheers. ill test this weekend and if it doesnt run ill drop it out and repair or replace.

 

[izzyandsue]

If you need to replace or remove, here are some instructions starting on post #223

Izzy's amateur hour

what??? you have a pool and didn't invite us...?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Brayden3223]

Alright I’ve tested at the plug, 0V, so no power is going down there, disconnected neutral switch and the relay will still click with that disconnected. Is that normal? Also would I be now leaning more towards a dud relay than a actuator

 

[ppc]

The neutral sensor switch only controls the AT/P light on the dash to indicate the transmission is in Park but the transfer case is in neutral. The purpose is to warn you that the vehicle could roll - no parking brake. It has nothing to do with the CDL function.

 

[Brayden3223]

The neutral sensor switch only controls the AT/P light on the dash to indicate the transmission is in Park but the transfer case is in neutral. The purpose is to warn you that the vehicle could roll - no parking brake. It has nothing to do with the CDL function.

Ah cheers, I was unaware of that. Does anyone know the testing procedure for the Relays? I’ll test those next and if they fail I’ll suss out a new one

 

[robnicko]

These actuators if not used frequently can tend to stick.
I had a similar issue with mine where it would not work and solved mine by refreshing the transfer case oil and then taking it to a dirt road, activating the switch and whilst moving along slowly turning the steering wheel left/right numerous times.
Doing this seemed to free it up and whilst I was out n about cycled it many many times on / off via the dash switch and also via the low range lever.
Ive also gotten into a habit of when stopped at lights etc activating on / off the switch to cycle the actuator and its been fine ever since.
I now change the transfer oil once per year or every 2nd engine oil change

you may want to try this

 

[jht3]

i solved this issue on mine by removing the Low position switch. i could always hear the relay clicking but nothing on the dash. jumped the two pins in connector and the dash lit up. so i cycled the switch by hand, gave it a few love taps on the concrete floor, and re-installed. works perfectly. i exercise it regularly at traffic lights.

the real fix though was buying a spare Low switch and putting it in my glove box. the old one still in the transfer refuses to give up its spot.

 

[Brayden3223]

These actuators if not used frequently can tend to stick.
I had a similar issue with mine where it would not work and solved mine by refreshing the transfer case oil and then taking it to a dirt road, activating the switch and whilst moving along slowly turning the steering wheel left/right numerous times.
Doing this seemed to free it up and whilst I was out n about cycled it many many times on / off via the dash switch and also via the low range lever.
Ive also gotten into a habit of when stopped at lights etc activating on / off the switch to cycle the actuator and its been fine ever since.
I now change the transfer oil once per year or every 2nd engine oil change

you may want to try this

I have given it a bit of a work out to see if it will unstick but nothing had happened, it also appears those no voltage at the plug feeding the actuator leading me to believe it’s something else

 

[Brayden3223]

i solved this issue on mine by removing the Low position switch. i could always hear the relay clicking but nothing on the dash. jumped the two pins in connector and the dash lit up. so i cycled the switch by hand, gave it a few love taps on the concrete floor, and re-installed. works perfectly. i exercise it regularly at traffic lights.

the real fix though was buying a spare Low switch and putting it in my glove box. the old one still in the transfer refuses to give up its spot.

Would this switch stop power running to the actuator?

 

[robnicko]

I have given it a bit of a work out to see if it will unstick but nothing had happened, it also appears those no voltage at the plug feeding the actuator leading me to believe it’s something else

could be an issue with the transmission relay behind the drivers kickpanel (when working properly they make an audible clicking sound and when not still make a click sound but not as pronounced)
I take it you have checked the fuse (No 14 / 30a)?

also, a bit rudimentary but get under the car jack up one wheel off the ground and with IGN on put in low range. rock the wheel back n forth so get tailshafts moving and with a hammer lightly tap the actuator housing

 

[Brayden3223]

could be an issue with the transmission relay behind the drivers kickpanel (when working properly they make an audible clicking sound and when not still make a click sound but not as pronounced)
I take it you have checked the fuse (No 14 / 30a)?

also, a bit rudimentary but get under the car jack up one wheel off the ground and with IGN on put in low range. rock the wheel back n forth so get tailshafts moving and with a hammer lightly tap the actuator housing

Yeah I’ve sussed out that fuse and it was still good, I replaced it anyway though. I’m gonna source another transmission relay to test and see how that goes

 

[jonheld]

Yeah I’ve sussed out that fuse and it was still good, I replaced it anyway though. I’m gonna source another transmission relay to test and see how that goes

You should download the Toyota FSM from the resources section and follow the diagnostics as opposed to guessing.