While changing the oil on my 1999 LX470 this weekend, I notice both my upper ball joint boots are torn along with one of the lowers. So, I proceeded to ih8mud.com to research a fix. After an hour or so of research, I still can't determine if the upper control arm is serviceable or not. There are several posts on rebooting and ball joint replacement, but within the threads there is often a post stating only the lower control arm is serviceable and that the upper control arm requires a large press to remove the ball joints. I believe my ball joints are still in good condition, so I'm hoping to just reboot. But, having just passed the 200K mark, I'm preparing for the possibility that I may need to replace them. I found the 555 ball joints on email for around $100 for the full set of 4. But, if i'm going to need the complete upper control arm, no need to purchase upper ball joints. Please advise. Thanks!
Can you replace upper and lower ball joints???
- Thread starter Agent T
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The lower ones are easily replaceable with Raybestos 505-1347. (60 bucks on evilbay)
Any workshop with a press can do the work for you very easily, while the lower control arms are off you might want the shop to put in new lower control arm bushings (available from Toyota as a service kit)... this is a bit more off a mission as one is pressed into the frame and the other into the control arm. You can remove the one in the arm with the Toyota jack, the one in the frame however has to be torched out if the workshop dose not have the Toyota tool.
At 200k I would recommend you do lower ball joints, lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends (depending on the current condition of yours) and anti-roll bar bushings. The combination of these parts will do WONDERS for your steering and front end.... never forget that wear on these parts will cause premature wear on your tires and steering rack, neither of which are cheap to replace. (Also check your bearings while you are in there)
The upper control arms are a different story, if you have good clearance (not sure if you are running a lift or not?) you can just replace with OEM parts, they are not that bad a price and you can bolt them in yourself in 20 min, or you can go with Total Chaos, Slee or one of the other manufactures that make uni-ball UCA's if you need more clearance but more $$$.
- Should all this work be done dont forget to have a really good wheel alignment and to ensure your torsion bars are cranked properly with the correct amount of droop (as they are removed when the LCA's come out).
Some pictures for you:
Lower control arm out...
Location where LCA bushing is pressed into frame:
Any workshop with a press can do the work for you very easily, while the lower control arms are off you might want the shop to put in new lower control arm bushings (available from Toyota as a service kit)... this is a bit more off a mission as one is pressed into the frame and the other into the control arm. You can remove the one in the arm with the Toyota jack, the one in the frame however has to be torched out if the workshop dose not have the Toyota tool.
At 200k I would recommend you do lower ball joints, lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends (depending on the current condition of yours) and anti-roll bar bushings. The combination of these parts will do WONDERS for your steering and front end.... never forget that wear on these parts will cause premature wear on your tires and steering rack, neither of which are cheap to replace. (Also check your bearings while you are in there)
The upper control arms are a different story, if you have good clearance (not sure if you are running a lift or not?) you can just replace with OEM parts, they are not that bad a price and you can bolt them in yourself in 20 min, or you can go with Total Chaos, Slee or one of the other manufactures that make uni-ball UCA's if you need more clearance but more $$$.
- Should all this work be done dont forget to have a really good wheel alignment and to ensure your torsion bars are cranked properly with the correct amount of droop (as they are removed when the LCA's come out).
Some pictures for you:
Lower control arm out...
Location where LCA bushing is pressed into frame:
^^This, good advice. You can also replace the uppers. It's a little trickier, but nothing I couldn't handle with a Harbor Freight $150 press. Definitely easier off the car though.
JC- I'm curious how to remove the ball joint from the upper control arm?
- Thread starter
- #5
Hey Gunny, I never said thank you for the prompt response. I'm collecting parts now for a complete front & rear suspension overhaul, and I'm planning on just replacing the upper control arms. After 200k+ miles, the bushings and ball joints are tired. As noted above, the upper ball joints are available and replaceable with the right equipment, but I can't source the OEM bushings...and when you total the cost, full OEM replacements are very affordable.
OEM bushings are readily available from the dealer, Beno or Dan can get them for you. I am out of stock otherwise I can supply you with the OEM bushing too.
- Thread starter
- #7
Okay. Good to know. I check into the rebuilding vs replacing upper control arms before making a final decision. I'm sure I checked the with my local dealership and they said the bushings are not sold. What a rip off
An alternative may be to take LCA & UCA to shop and have them press in/out ball joints. Although I do like any excuse to buy a new tools 
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2001LC- yeah that would take all the fun out of it.
I have to yet to hear or see any posts for DIY replacement of the UCA ball joint. Ranma21 posted he offers the UCA ball joints, still looking for specifics on how those come out and go in.
I have to yet to hear or see any posts for DIY replacement of the UCA ball joint. Ranma21 posted he offers the UCA ball joints, still looking for specifics on how those come out and go in.
I've not done or looked so can't say. Give Slee Off Road a call in Golden CO. I'm sure they can give you some insight and they are good source for the parts. Great bunch of guys.
Is possible to do the upper balls with a C-clamp press like this one:
Tis a bit tight to get the tool in there, but doable. I had to make my own little pipe to fit exactly around the joint, and as short as poss -- cut a piece off an empty small gas bottle.
Faster this way than to take the arm off. Otoh, the bolts for the arm will be even more stuck the next time around, and then probably the bushings will need to be changed...
Tis a bit tight to get the tool in there, but doable. I had to make my own little pipe to fit exactly around the joint, and as short as poss -- cut a piece off an empty small gas bottle.
Faster this way than to take the arm off. Otoh, the bolts for the arm will be even more stuck the next time around, and then probably the bushings will need to be changed...
I used part of a pipe coupling, and pressed it out. I read somewhere on here that they are good for a few replacements if you're willing to do it. It's definitely easier to get the old one out than the new one in bc you can mangle it without fear.
uHu- that's Perfect. 
- thank you. I noticed a bushing tool like that at HarborFreight Tools ($80) (Not sure if you have those stores in Norway).
2001LC- Thats is a good point. That thought came to me today as well. I will check in with the Autozone down the street and see what they have.
JC- thanks for your reply. My concern is getting them out with out Chernobyling the retaining area the new ball joint would reside in.
- thank you. I noticed a bushing tool like that at HarborFreight Tools ($80) (Not sure if you have those stores in Norway).2001LC- Thats is a good point. That thought came to me today as well. I will check in with the Autozone down the street and see what they have.
JC- thanks for your reply. My concern is getting them out with out Chernobyling the retaining area the new ball joint would reside in.
The HarborFreight tool, I got it at amazon.com as "OTC 7249". - Good tool - must be like a 10 ton press.
And yes, Sweden is close to Norway (I saw it). But no, we don't have HF.
And yes, Sweden is close to Norway
(I saw it). But no, we don't have HF.Apologies- I was thinking Norway, but my fingers typed Sweden. I did catch that and fix it about 10 seconds later. So I will ask "jeg beklager" and say "Takk for hjelpen".The HarborFreight tool, I got it at amazon.com as "OTC 7249". - Good tool - must be like a 10 ton press.
And yes, Sweden is close to Norway
Tnx for gooble translate. Got it right this time.
Tech content:
That tool is surprisingly strong and sturdy. A rachet spanner with a 3 ft cheater on makes it easy to press the joint out. I had to apply a bit of heat also, to break the 11 year bond. I tried it first on a uca from my old parts cruiser, held in a Big vice, to see if it could do the job at all, but also there, with perfect conditions, I couldn't break the joint loose without heat. So, it might be right what I've heard, that you normally need a 20 ton press for this job. FOr heating, there isn't much in the way that could be over heated. So, with a narrow torch and then move fast, it is a quite easy task.
Tech content:
That tool is surprisingly strong and sturdy. A rachet spanner with a 3 ft cheater on makes it easy to press the joint out. I had to apply a bit of heat also, to break the 11 year bond. I tried it first on a uca from my old parts cruiser, held in a Big vice, to see if it could do the job at all, but also there, with perfect conditions, I couldn't break the joint loose without heat. So, it might be right what I've heard, that you normally need a 20 ton press for this job. FOr heating, there isn't much in the way that could be over heated. So, with a narrow torch and then move fast, it is a quite easy task.
Gunney, love the flowers in your pic nice touch. I would recommend replacing your lower control arm bushings as well if you have it out. In my experience (on a similar vehicle)I heated the bushing just enough to melt the rubber then used a threaded rod with a nutand large washer on one end and a pipe (or large socket) on the other with a washer and nut. when tightenened it works to press the bushing out.
- Thread starter
- #19
Hey Guys, sorry for the late update. I've done considerable research on the upper (and lower) ball joints and come to the conclusion that if OEM is the way to go if you can afford it. OEM ball joints areonly available with the purchase of the complete control arm, which increases the cost. I spoke to Slee Offroad about their aftermarket lower ball joints...and considered the option as a lower cost alternitive. But, they don't recommend replacing the upper ball joints and suggested that I stay with OEM if I want to drive another 200,000 miles on my stock LX470. Thanks for all the help. I'm going to be starting a new thead that will detail the complete overhaul of AHC suspension. Over the past 6 months I've been collecting all the parts which include new globes, shocks, springs, sway bar bushings and now upper and lower control arms.
The uppper ball joints are kind of a pain to press in and out, but the job is possible with a little heat, a harbor freight press and a hammer. Replaced mine with the 555.
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Removal
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