Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The link above shows how to convert the newer computer controlled alternator to the earlier internally regulated style. It just takes a $20 VR + a dremel, soldering iron, and some time.

However, I couldn't find the regulator for $20 anywhere like the above link says, only $40 or more. I called the Dave's Armature here in town and Dave (or whoever I talked to) was very familiar with this situation and said he could do the voltage regulator swap for about $45-50, and that comes with some sort of warranty. This sounds like the way to go. A pro will do it, test it, and it won't cost too much.
 
GBCM, BCM, ECM etc Wouldn't it be easier to run a standard stand-alone alternator that has it's own internal regulation? If Cameron eliminated all of his acronym ;) related inputs, it's likely hard to add them back, and it might be easier to just step back to older technology.

Regarding the new technology if it is acting like a battery monitor and replaces only what you take out, what happens if you install a battery that isn't fully charged? Like let's say you pull the battery to use with your Ready Welder, the truck doesn't know you ran the battery down. If it only replaced losses from that point?
 
Cruiserdrew said:
GBCM, BCM, ECM etc Wouldn't it be easier to run a standard stand-alone alternator that has it's own internal regulation?
Click to expand...

Tom & I are a few steps ahead. (see above, posted while you were typing).
 
Cruiserdrew said:
...Regarding the new technology if it is acting like a battery monitor and replaces only what you take out, what happens if you install a battery that isn't fully charged? Like let's say you pull the battery to use with your Ready Welder, the truck doesn't know you ran the battery down. If it only replaced losses from that point?
Click to expand...

Don't know the answer to this, but there's probably some voltage sense-based backup system -- likely built into the BCM. In Cameron's case there is no BCM and hence no signals to direct the ECU on what to do regarding charging the battery. If Cam had hooked up an OBD reader it likely would have shown charging system trouble codes. Unless those codes were disabled when he got the ECU reflashed. I originally thought the charge control systems that monitor battery power draw were only in much newer vehicles, but from reading last night and today I see they started to appear in GMC vehicles in 2005.

BTW, this also means if you hook up auxiliary loads like a ham radio or refrigerator to one of these systems, you shouldn't run a ground return lead directly to the battery negative post. Instead it needs to be connected through the GBCM so that power use is accurately metered.

EDIT: I'm not sure why the GMC engineers didn't build in a failure fall-back mode where the alternator reverted to the old-style voltage regulation mode of charging, with the B+ terminal used as the voltage sense, for the situation where there's no signaling between the BCM and ECU. Instead they chose "output a constant 13.8v" during a system failure. I'm sure there's a good reason, I just don't know what it is.
 
Last edited:
why not just go get one of the older model alternators thats setup for 5.3.... surely all of them don't have this new module at the battery to interface with?

or you could run one of the alt modified for single wire connection. I have a single wire CS-144 thats been running from day one of my swap...but it sits on a 5.7.
 
Dave, of Dave's Armature, is going to convert mine (DR44) to the internally regulated style (AD244). Like this... http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116343

It should save me $100 over getting a new one, I won't need a different belt, and I should be able to get a working alternator light in the dash.
 
Last edited:
pmccraney said:
I haven't understood anything on this thread since the engine got muddy and leaky and stuff...
Click to expand...

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but there will be a test later.
 
Fireman said:
Oh and never bench test a pump right after you pull it out of the tank. A fire and cool shenanigans will ensue.
Click to expand...

So I was testing my new pump before I put it in (it passed), and decided to test the original gas-filled pump again to see if it sounded different. Whaddya know...

54320576.webp


I had to break off to tend to some other business before I could install the pump, so no word on if that fixes my rough running.
 
I got the new pump in, but it's making the high pitch squealing/whining noise again. I'll bet that the knock-off brand filter/pressure regulator that came with my pump kit is the culprit.
 
Last edited:
I don't know anything about the 5.3...but don't they have their own fuel pressure regulator up on the fuel rail somewhere? ON my 5.7 I just have a filter and pump (i have two filters).. but the fuel pump does whine. Most if not all external fuel pumps have some whine to them...they certainly are not stone cold quite.
 
The earlier ones did have one on the rail (I believe), but not the later ones. I'm using the Corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator, which is the common tried & true solution. Mine is a knock-off, so I've ordered a Wix.

The pump I'm using should be nearly silent, and it was up until recently.
 
my walbro pump has "whined" the entire time.... it would be nice to do away with that...I've got my pump isolated the best I can but you can hear it when you are outside on the passenger side of the truck. I've grown use to it... I'm going to continue to run an external pump...probally the only way to really cut down on the noise is to run a in tank pump...I'm too lazy to do anything about that though..I've got too many other projects in the way.
 
FJ60Cam said:
Here's a few exhaust shots. I'm running dual 2-1/4" into a Flowmaster 50-something with a single 3" outlet.

Getting the passenger side over to the drivers...

View attachment 1043155

I bought some nice flanges and copper gaskets from Columbia River Mandrel Bending so I can take the mid-pipes out if I need too.

I had him tuck the tailpipe up as high as possible and dump it out where I won't crush it. I've always crushed it when it comes out under the quarter panel.

View attachment 1043160

It's probably a little noisier dumping out like this, but I think it's a good compromise. I'm totally happy with his work.
Click to expand...

Great looking project Cam! Your thread and a few others on here are what convinced me to buy my cruiser and do this swap. I thank you for the instruction manual to get me through. We actually cranked motor over for first time yesterday just to make sure electric was run right, don't have fuel run to it but that's plan today. Stuck on exhaust and ac lines though. I like the way you had yours ran past tcase before crossing over but I don't seem to have enough room to get over the tcase. By any chance have any other pics of underside of your cruiser that would show from flange back? Driver side is easy but any pics of passenger side might give me an idea of what I might need to move where to get some extra room. Thanks!
 
Thanks! Yeah, the passenger side is tight for sure. I'll get some more pics up, probably late this weekend.

Are you running the same exhaust manifolds?
 
Last edited:
I finally swapped fuel filters and it's back to running like a champ. And the pump is absolutely silent now.

The filter must have had some crud or other obstruction that was causing it to build up too much pressure (I've heard the pumps get noisy with excess pressure), or it was just a shi#y filter/regulator. Wix only for me from now on.

@TrickyT might like to know that I had no error code when I disconnected the alternator plug, so this seems to confirm what we already suspected and means the alternator mod should be pretty straight forward.
 
I've been driving my Dad's F-150 and I forgot how much more powerful the 60 is now. It even rides smoother.

Glad to have it back!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom