Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant
- Thread starter FJ60Cam
- Start date
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Fan shroud makes a huge difference is how well you radiator and other cooling devices will work. Can't stress the importance of having one.
Nice job on the fan shroud build.
- Thread starter
- #544
Moving down the to-do list...
The FJ62 front DS Georg made for me slides right in. However it is very close to the front corner of the trans pan.
Since this end is anchored to the t-case, it shouldn't move much. I gave it a few love taps to get just a little bit more clearance.
If it needs more room, it'll have to make it itself.
I flexed out the passenger side to see what I need to do to my oil pan. I'm finding that flexing isn't a problem at all since the diff doesnt move upward as much as it rotates.
My clearance problem is when the whole axle moves up (taking it off sweet jumps). So I'll still have it shaved some.
I'm wasn't quite to the bumpstop, but I think it would have just about made it without any diff contact.
I swear this truck has rusted more just sitting in the carport for a few months than in ten years of daily use. Like it was sad that it was being neglected.
The FJ62 front DS Georg made for me slides right in. However it is very close to the front corner of the trans pan.
Since this end is anchored to the t-case, it shouldn't move much. I gave it a few love taps to get just a little bit more clearance.
If it needs more room, it'll have to make it itself.
I flexed out the passenger side to see what I need to do to my oil pan. I'm finding that flexing isn't a problem at all since the diff doesnt move upward as much as it rotates.
My clearance problem is when the whole axle moves up (taking it off sweet jumps). So I'll still have it shaved some.
I'm wasn't quite to the bumpstop, but I think it would have just about made it without any diff contact.
I swear this truck has rusted more just sitting in the carport for a few months than in ten years of daily use. Like it was sad that it was being neglected.
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- Thread starter
- #545
No, one half has two pieces metal welded on each side that makes a pocket to hold the other half.
It's been like that since it owned the truck. It's simple, but very sturdy.
It must have been done by a dealer tech. That's the only place it ever had major work done to it before I got ahold of it.
- Thread starter
- #546
I also got my check engine light wired to the choke light. It was super easy - just connect the check engine light wire to the hot side of the choke connector (yellow wire).
It comes on before you start it and promptly goes out after you do.
It comes on before you start it and promptly goes out after you do.
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looking good Cam! pop a F'n wheelie!
good idea on the fan shroud...simple is always good.
I expect that your cooling temps will come down, due to the fan shroud...at least the low speed ones will, I don't think you'll have any issues. The real test is with the a/c and a nice hot summer day..maybe with 4wd and hill climbing too. I think all will be fine, mine has cooled well since I had a decent fan shroud made up. Mine has never been over about 215-220F or so. I do think the exposed frontal area for the radiator is limited..but not much you can do about that and maintain the stock appearance. The GM fan and fan clutch work well.
I expect that your cooling temps will come down, due to the fan shroud...at least the low speed ones will, I don't think you'll have any issues. The real test is with the a/c and a nice hot summer day..maybe with 4wd and hill climbing too. I think all will be fine, mine has cooled well since I had a decent fan shroud made up. Mine has never been over about 215-220F or so. I do think the exposed frontal area for the radiator is limited..but not much you can do about that and maintain the stock appearance. The GM fan and fan clutch work well.
- Thread starter
- #549
We have functioning AC 
I unplugged my AC amp and plugged in an FJ62 amp. That's it.
There are a couple of wires I need to add and remove to make it 100% foolproof and functional as Mr. T designed it. But for now it comes on when you push the blue button and cycles when it gets too cold.
I like this solution, because unlike the FJ60 amp, this one has no "blue knob" , and has no minimum rpm requirement to turn on the compressor. Before, sometimes I'd have to bump the throttle to get it to kick on sitting at a red light.
My idle is 600 rpms when warm. When the compressor kicks on, it briefly drops to 525-550, then goes right back to 600. Barely a glitch, and no need for an rpm increase IMO.
I'd like to nominate Tom, aka @TrickyT , for the Nobel prize in advanced AC amp electrical circuitry. He looked through both amp wiring diagrams (while on vacation in Hawaii I might add) and advised me of the wiring differences and how to correct them.
I unplugged my AC amp and plugged in an FJ62 amp. That's it.
There are a couple of wires I need to add and remove to make it 100% foolproof and functional as Mr. T designed it. But for now it comes on when you push the blue button and cycles when it gets too cold.
I like this solution, because unlike the FJ60 amp, this one has no "blue knob" , and has no minimum rpm requirement to turn on the compressor. Before, sometimes I'd have to bump the throttle to get it to kick on sitting at a red light.
My idle is 600 rpms when warm. When the compressor kicks on, it briefly drops to 525-550, then goes right back to 600. Barely a glitch, and no need for an rpm increase IMO.
I'd like to nominate Tom, aka @TrickyT , for the Nobel prize in advanced AC amp electrical circuitry. He looked through both amp wiring diagrams (while on vacation in Hawaii I might add) and advised me of the wiring differences and how to correct them.
impressive...nice and cold A/C
wonder if the old a/c amp just called it quits.. Post up some notes on the wiring fix so it might help others.
I think the only source for those amps is "used"..both for the 60 and 62. I have the circuit board out of a used 60 amp... for my spare..maybe I need to go on the hunt for a 62 amp.
A/C = Good
wonder if the old a/c amp just called it quits.. Post up some notes on the wiring fix so it might help others.
I think the only source for those amps is "used"..both for the 60 and 62. I have the circuit board out of a used 60 amp... for my spare..maybe I need to go on the hunt for a 62 amp.
A/C = Good
- Thread starter
- #551
I'm pretty sure my problem is the ECU tach signal. I tried to make a pull-up resistor. I tried a Dakota Digital tach signal convertor. But nothing ever gave me any sort of tach reading or AC trigger. Based on how the lights blinked (or didn't blink actually) on my Dakota Digital thing, the guy in tech support says it means I don't have a signal. I'm getting 31V AC, and it doesn't vary by rpm. The tech guy says it should be 0-20V AC, and vary with rpm.
I ordered another gizmo from Dakota Digital that will generate a tach signal from the OBD output, I'm crossing my fingers that it will get my stock tach working. Hopefully it doesn't catch fire when it goes past 4K.
On the differences between the FJ60 & 62 amps... you need to disconnect or cut the wire to terminal 5. That's the old coil (-) signal. You also need to jump the wires between terminal 8 & 9. For some reason the 62 has two +12v going to the thermistor, but the 60 only has one. Mine is working without doing this, but I will do it anyway. Last, but not least, there is an additional spade terminal, not part of the main amp plug. Connect this to your starter signal and it will interrupt the compressor while you are starting (not absolutely required, but easy to do).
But, for the most part, it is plug and play. And it completely takes the rpms out of the equation.
That's some great trouble shooting work on the AC. The fan shroud looks good too. I'm going to try and modify my shroud too.
You can clearance the tranny pan a little more in that area if need be. There'snothing inside in that area except the dip stick. The H3 oil pan will solve any clearance problems too. (Only) $150 from Summit or Jegs. Really a sweet build!
You can clearance the tranny pan a little more in that area if need be. There'snothing inside in that area except the dip stick. The H3 oil pan will solve any clearance problems too. (Only) $150 from Summit or Jegs. Really a sweet build!
- Thread starter
- #553
Thanks!
What's the part number on the H3 pan? Does it come with a new pick up and windage tray? I've already sold my truck pan, pickup, and tray, which are probably more correct than the Camaro parts. Can you post a pic of the diff side of the pan with a tape measure in there for reference? And across the bottom, too? It looks like it is missing the corner chunk that is giving me problems.
I'll make a little more room on the trans pan.
GM #19212593
Yep, comes with dipstick, pickup, windage tray, even the gasket and nuts & bolts. Will try to post pics tomorrow
Yep, comes with dipstick, pickup, windage tray, even the gasket and nuts & bolts. Will try to post pics tomorrow
- Thread starter
- #556
Man, that looks like it might be the ticket.
I'm tempted to get one and risk paying the return fee just to get one in person. Thanks for the pics.
You are killing it if you already have your exhaust going.
I'm tempted to get one and risk paying the return fee just to get one in person. Thanks for the pics.
You are killing it if you already have your exhaust going.
- Thread starter
- #557
I went ahead and ordered one.
The oil pan is just about the only thing keeping me from calling this project a wrap.
The oil pan is just about the only thing keeping me from calling this project a wrap.
Hope it works!
Looking great Cam. Nice work on the fan shroud and A/C fix.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Great thread. I can't wait to see this in the wilds of Nevada. You have done way more, in less time, than most of us. Congrats.
Any suspension mods coming, or is it done? Very nicely done. Are you still married and employed? Not that it matters.
Any suspension mods coming, or is it done? Very nicely done. Are you still married and employed? Not that it matters.